New Project, New Scale - 1:24 Kit Bash

Because I have so little room, I have decided my next dollhouse project will be in 1:24 scale (half inch scale). This way I can assemble a whole dollhouse on my desk with ease, and store it on top of the bookshelf without issues.

I decided to start with a kit and do a "kit bash" to customise it. This is mainly because I don't have any power tools in my little apartment, so can't cut any walls in order to start from scratch. I wanted to do a classic victorian, so I chose the Fairfield by Greenleaf. I got one from eBay for a bargain $50 (including shipping to Australia!).

I have done quite a lot of image searching in researching Victorian houses, because I want to get an authentic look. So far I have found a few little farm houses which I am sure the Fairfield was based on!

I am not satisfied with the quality of the doors and windows so I also shopped around for some replacements. There are about three main options in the mass market for 1:24 scale windows and doors (including internal and external). In the end I chose Grandt Line for the authenticity and architectural detail.

This means I only have two project currently on foot, which is a nice change!  This includes this new 1:24 house and my Swedish house. The Swedish house has been coming along slowly (owing to it being in my parent's workshop, and me having little time to visit). It has recently acquired the first two of its five planned hinged facard doors, and its two main windows, so that is something!

The Mysterious Charlotte Hunt: Solved!

A few months ago I wrote a post about a miniaturist named Charlotte Hunt. I had seen many miniature interiors by her, but found no actual information. She created mainly Scandinavian interiors and painted furniture. Then a little while ago I ordered a book called Secrets of the Dollhouse Makers by Jean Nisbet.

The book contains an article about her and her work. I recommend the book, it is a great resource if you are interested in prominent miniature artists.

Hanging and Ageing Tiny Doors - A Tutorial

Preparing and hanging doors is a tricky business. To get a real aged look you have to create wear and tear.

Lightly sand the surface and then smudge it very lightly with grey chalk pastel. Be sure to smudge only where ordinary wear and tear would be, such as around the door handle. 

To add more realism I made a faux door catch by cutting an indent on one door (above) and gluing a small brass square on the other (below).

I hung the door using hinges rather than using a pin (which is easier).

This required carefully cutting in where the hinges will go.

I superglued the hinges on, and then drilled little holes for the nails. This makes it much easier than trying to nail it when it is not fixed in place. Also, be sure to drill the holes and glue in the nails rather than nailing them in with a hammer. If you nail them in the chances are the delicate wood of your door will split. 

It is important to ensure your hinges are perfectly lined up and horizontal, otherwise the door will not open or the hinges will break when you open it.

The result is pleasing.

Baltic Pine Floors for the Swedish House

This weekend I spent making the floors for the upper levels of the Swedish house. I decided to go for a plain design of broad boards, common in a lot of farm houses. They often had one broad board cutting through the centre of the room, usually mirroring a beam underneath.

I cut a sheet of card to the size of the room, and began making the floor. I used thin veneer timber of Tasmanian oak. This is a blonde timber, and gave the best imitation of baltic pine.  

I sanded it and and filled the bigger gaps with wood coloured timber filler. 

I gave the floor one coat of french polish which brought out the yellow tones in the wood. I wanted a more weathered and bleached look though, so after the coat of french polish I sanded the floor lightly. This gave a realistic effect, especially around the hearth and door, because I sanded more heavily there.

I then made a typical Swedish three panelled door, using the same technique as the last door I made.

Here is the unfinished door in situ. 

I also made a threshold, and sanded it down for a worn look. This added another element of realism and I was quite happy with it. 

Slowly it is all coming together, not long before the light fittings go in, and I can begin the facade.    

Dining Room Floor

This week my mum and I made the floor for one of the rooms in the Swedish house. First we cut a sheet of card to the size of the floor in the room. 

Next we drew the pattern the floor boards would take on the card.

It is important to double check that it fits in the room snugly before you start making the floor. 

Then we slowly put the floor together to the pattern with thin strips of wood veneer. We used blonde honey coloured wood for a Scandinavian look. 

It took quite some time, about five days. 

Next we french polished the floor. It would have also looked good raw too. 

The finished product is quite pleasing. 

Stairs in the Swedish House - the Next Step

Over the weekend I made some progress on my Swedish House's staircase. I began it some time ago.

I completed the balastrading by first finishing off the remaining ice cream sticks which I had begun cutting earlier. To get an even rounded edge I used a small chisel. The wood was very hard, and quite tough to cut.

I replaced the posts I made earlier with harder base wood which is less likely to be damaged or dinted. 

I moved the staircase between the house and my work bench to make sure that everything fit properly as I was making it.

Unfortunately at one point, the "easy to slide in" staircase got wedged. I had to shove it quite hard to get it out!

I then painted the hallway in a grey tinted white. I will not wall paper this wall, I think a plain and minimal look is best. It took a few coats to get an even finish.

I also painted the stairs.

I am pleased with the result. 

Next job: parquetry flooring for the entrance, and to find a suitable hall light!