Uganda part 5 - Queen Elizabeth NP

On December 7th 2025 we headed from Kibale towards Queen Elizabeth NP. En route we stopped at a few places, including a lunch stop at Chimpanzee Forest Lodge. I ate very quickly to leave time for a little bit of birding before heading off. The lodge grounds held excellent birds, including Great Blue Turacos, Green-headed and Olive-bellied Sunbirds, and more (eBird checklist here).

Black-crowned Waxbill

Brimstone Canary

We also did a mandatory stop at the equator crossing spot - thanks Yani for the snap.

We arrived at Queen Elizabeth NP in the afternoon.

We stayed in the national park for two nights (until December 9th). After a few days of neck-wrecking forest birding, it was good to bird in open country again. The beautiful savanna habitat of Queen Elizabeth held so many birds and mammals. Every safari drive was packed with quality birds and offered surprises.

One of the hugest bull Elephants we met

Defasa Waterbuck

Wattled Lapwing looking smart

Senegal Lapwing looking elegant

Black-bellied Bustard looking a bit silly

Small Buttonquail looking weird

Harlequin Quail looking shocked (encountered during a night drive)

The undoubted birding highlight of our stay in QENP was a boat trip along Kazinga Channel. Similar to the boat trip we did in Murchinson Falls NP, this boat trip should not be missed. Despite the midday heat and harsh light, it was fabulous (eBird checklist here).

Woodland Kingfisher

Can you pot the male Greater Painted-Snipe? Here with Spur-winged Lapwing, Common Ringed-Plover, and Wood Sandpiper:

Goliath Heron

Plenty of gulls and terns along the channel, including good numbers of African Skimmers, this is a recently-fledged young, already looking sharp:

Lesser Black-backed Gull of some sort, maybe heuglini? Head is a bit too streaked IMO but mantle isn't jet black enough for fuscus:

Gray-hooded Gulls

There were many mammals by the water, mainly Buffalos, and literally tons and tons of Elephants. Mammals = Yellow-billed Oxpeckers:

We had fantastic luck with cats in QENP. One evening we encountered not one but two Leopards, just before dusk. Super animals.

That pattern

The big surprise happened after dusk, when we spotted a mindblowing SERVAL hiding in tall grass. What an incredible animal and we had fantastic views. Despite many previous visits to Kenya and Tanzania, this was my bimbo Serval. Wow.

Our accommodation in Queen Elizabeth National Park was at Buffalo Safari Lodge. It was wonderful there, the rooms and facilities, and the birding. The only issue was that after dusk walking around is not advised without armed escort. Because of these guys.

As mentioned above, birding was excellent at Buffalo Safari Lodge.

One can never have enough of Black-headed Gonoleks, even when they behave like House Sparrows:

Can you see me?

Nubian Woodpecker

Chasing off an opponent

Swamp Flycatchers were feeding a young just by the restaurant

Gimme that hoverfly!

Taken by phone

Double-toothed Barbet

Northern Crombec

Red-chested Sunbird

Rooftop Red-necked Spurfowls

Uganda part 2 - Murchinson Falls NP

The long drive from Entebbe to Murchinson Falls NP on December 1st was enjoyable, as we practiced our collective birding skills spotting and identifying roadside birds. We arrived at Kuchumbanyambo Gate at dusk and were greeted by calling Fiery-necked Nightjars by the gate.

We stayed at the wonderful Sambiya River Lodge. This was the view from my room:

Lots of wildlife inside the lodge, including Warthogs

As always, it was challenging to leave the lodge and head out to the park with so many birds in the carpark. 

Our first morning in the park itself (December 2nd) was stunning. Being surrounded by so many mammals and birds, in beautiful habitat, made the safari experience very special. Cool birds seen during the first few hours included: 

The delicate Vinaceous Dove

Crazy Blue Malkoha

And the stately Gray Kestrel

Mammals were plentiful, with large herds of Ugandan Kob, Rothchild's Giraffe, and several other ungulates.

Hartebeest

Oribi

1,2,3,4 Rothchild's Giraffes

Interestingly, many of the giraffes had white faces and necks. I don't have a good explanation for this.

My personal highlight in Murchinson Falls NP was the boat trip on the Nile. We did the comprehensive trip, and it was incredible. If you visit Murchinson Falls, don't miss this boat trip. Fantastic birds (eBird checklist here) and wildlife, super photo opps, and unique vistas.

Seeing the riparian habitat from the water was very special

Made even more special with different eyes focused on us...

Nile Crocodile

Nile Hippopotamus

Mantled Guereza

Out of the sky dropped a flock of 140 Abdim's Storks onto a nice sandbar. 

A small group of six African Skimmers graced that same sandbar. Amazing birds with an incredible bill.

Several Giant Kingfishers were seen very well - excellent stuff.

Male

Female

We sailed past a breeding colony of Red-throated Bee-eaters - total gems:

An old colony

We sailed up the river as close to the falls as possible. Such a mighty experience.

Not far from the falls we found a lovely flock of 22 Rock Pratincoles. I almost started crying. Beautiful, dream birds.

The bloody camera didn't focus

African Darter

Most of December 3rd was spent safari-driving and birding in the park. So many birds were seen. I like birds that have 'Abyssinian Roller' in their name.

Abyssinian Roller

Abyssinian Ground-Roller

We visited the top of Murchinson Falls which was impressive.

There were several Rock Pratincoles up there too. In this video, the mighty roaring power of the water can be appreciated (volume on):

Back in safari mode, Piapiac is a curious magpie relative. It was quite abundant in the park, often seen associating with herds of mammals.

Patas Monkey - very sweet

Beaudouin's Snake-Eagle with its meal still sticking out of its bill

We had lunch at Pakuba Lodge that was exploding with birds (eBird checklist here), despite the midday heat. 

Shelley's Rufous Sparrow

Poor photo of a great bird - Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

This Marabou came in for a chlorinated drink in the swimming pool:

Our FAM tour crew - Julie, Luis and Marabou