Showing posts with label Escoffier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Escoffier. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 01, 2009

What one woman eats.

The concern about food adulteration and safety which led to the formation of the “Poison Squad” and the eventual promulgation of the Food and Drug Law in the United States (which provided yesterday’s story) did not belong solely to enlightened food chemists and socialist writers. The story was taken to the women’s clubs by at least one convert – Mrs. Winifred Harper Cooley. The New York Times in March 1909 reported her address to the ladies of the Rainy Day Club.

“Mrs. Winnifred Harper Cooley told the members of the Rainy Day Club at their meeting yesterday afternoon in the Hotel Astor, that “the food goblins would get ‘em in they didn’t watch out.” She told them that the food adulterators neither slumber nor tarry, and that, while it was alright to take drugs under the doctor’s order, it was dangerous to mix up a lot of them “in our midst,” as bad food people will hand them out to us if not watched.
To show how many opportunities there are to take in bad food, Mrs. Cooley read a schedule of food eaten by one Englishwoman if she lives to be 70 years old. The statistics are guaranteed by a man by the name of Soyer, who, with a passion for facts, and, perhaps, an antipathy to the female sex, compiled them. In her three-score years and ten of life, according to the figures, the Englishwoman will eat 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100 calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs, 1,200 fowls, 300 turkesy, 260 pigeons, 120 turbot 140 salmon, and 30,000 oysters.
“Think what a chance for typhoid germs!” interpolated Mrs. Cooley. 
Also she will eat 5,745 pounds of vegetables, 244 pounds of butter, 24,000 eggs, 4 ½ tons of bread, an indeterminate quantity of fruit and candy, and she will drink 3,000 gallons of tea and coffee.
“These next two specifications, I think, must have been intended for men,” said Mrs. Cooley, as she wound up the awful array with 548 gallons of spirits and 49 hogsheads of wine.
“Prof Shepard, State chemist of South Dakota, has proved that in the day’s three meals one may take in thirty-five doses of poison … and 14,000 does in a year.”
Potates are pure, and it looks like we might have to live on them.
In sausages there may be found coal tar, dye, and borax; bacon is cured with creosote, (liquid smoke), maple syrup is made from glucose and hickory bark and contains sodium sulphite; pure oatmeal is eaten for breakfast with cream preserved with formaldehyde; blue points [oysters] are preserved with powdered borax, and there is formaldehyde in pork and beans. ….
… The country is in a serious condition. The commission appointed by the President has reported that some chemicals are not harmful to food, though Dr Wiley has proved that they are. He is a man who could not be bought, and no one knows what he has suffered, for there is no doubt that the Board of Agriculture is against him. (Applause). But by taking pains and looking at the formulas on the wrappers and patronizing honest dealers, we can protect ourselves. Some canned goods are put up under better conditions than they could be in a private kitchen. It ahs been proved that things can be put up without preservatives, and we can find out the good manufacturers if we try.”

A one-hundred year-old battle – and I fear that we have far more ‘safe’ chemicals in our food now than when Mrs Cooley made her speech. What do you think?

In honour of Mrs. Cooley’s idea of safety in potatoes, I give this recipe from The New York Times of September 1910. The article was on Emergency Dishes for the Hostess, and the writer tells the story of one housekeeper suddenly surprised by ‘a guest of epicurean habits … with nothing more special than a broiled beefsteak as the main course of her meal.’ She comes up trumps with the steak and shows her resourcefulness with the potato dish.


Delicious Potato Fluff.
… made of six leftover potatoes, which in less skillful hands might have been warmed up or fried.
The skins of these tubers were removed, and they were put through a colancer, after which there were added one gill of hot cream, a tablespoon of salt, a small piece of butter, and the well-beaten whites of three eggs. The preparation was cooked in a baking dish (using a moderate oven) until prettily browned all over, and was served at once.


Quotation for the Day.

How can a society that exists on instant mashed potatoes, packaged cake mixes, frozen dinners, and instant cameras teach patience to the young?
Paul Sweeney.

Friday, March 30, 2007

Escoffier in America.

Today March 30th …

The first meeting of the society of Les Amis d’Escoffier was held at the Waldorf-Astoria on this day in 1936. The aim of the society was to preserve and honour the memory of the man called “The Chef of Emperors and the Emperor of Chefs”.

There are strict rules at dinner meetings of Les Amis – all designed to ensure that the focus remains on the food. One seemingly strange rule is that the napkin (the "La Serviette au cou") must be tucked into the collar to ensure that all members are seen as equals in the art of gastronomy - presumably as this hides expensive old school or regimental ties, diamond tie-pins and the like. Women were not admitted to the society until the 1950’s, so I do wonder what has happened to the rule since then. All cleavages are not created equal. Do women members have to wear high-necked collared dresses in order to tuck in their napkins? Someone in the know, please enlighted us all.

The dinner rules appear on the menu for the society dinners under the heading “For the Perfect Enjoyment of This Dinner.” Drunkeness, smoking, and the use of cell phones are forbidden which makes obvious sense, but speech-making too is banned as being distracting from attention on the food. The society goes even further on the talking at table with this rule:

Les Amis d’Escoffier Society of New York is dedicated to the art of good living only, it is forbidden, under threat of expulsion, to speak of personal affairs, of one’s own work or specialty, and more particularly, to attempt to use the Society as a means of making business contacts. It is unnecessary to elucidate further on this delicate subject, which everyone understands. Furthermore, at these dinner-meetings reference will never be made on the subjects of: politics, religious beliefs, personal opinions of either members or guests, irrespective of their profession or social status.

Should this rule be more widely applied – or at least encouraged – at a wider range of dinners do you think?

We have previously considered some Escoffier recipes:

Crêpes Suzette.
Laitues Farcis (Stuffed Lettuce)
Pêche Melba
Sarah Bernhardt’s Favourite Consommé.
Roast Chicken
Riz Imperatrice

Today, in honour of the American society, here is one of Escoffier’s
Salades Composées (Compound Salads). I must say, it doesn’t particularly appeal to me, but I cant just include my own favourites, can I?

American Salad.
Tomatoes, pineapple, orange, banana, cos lettuce, mayonnaise.
Peel, seed, and slice the tomatoes, cut the pineapple in small slices, peel and divide the orange into sections and slice the banana thinly. Cut the lettuce in half and arrange the fruits alternately on it.
Serve with a thin mayonnaise sauce or cream to which orange and lemon juice, salt and a pinch of sugar have been added.

Last year on this day …

James Boswell, the biographer of Samuel Johnson, recorded a dinner with the great man on this day in 1781.

Monday's Story ...

The loves of Casanova.

Quotation for the Day …

So long as people don’t know how to eat they will not have good cooks. Escoffier.

Tuesday, December 26, 2006

A Classic at Christmas.

Today, December 26th …

Yes, I know I promised you a fruitcake story for today, but in retrospect it seemed a heavy topic for the day after a heavy-eating day. And in any case, I have too much post-feasting cleaning up to do myself (but what a good day!) – so when I realised that I had not selected a suitable fruitcake recipe for the day, I made an executive decision to change topic.

I hope you like this 1921 Boxing Day menu from the Hotel Rubens, London S.W 1.



MENU du DINER

Royal Natives
-
Consomme a l’Ancienne
-
Supreme de Salmon Chambort
-
Tournedos Rossini
Haricots Verts
Pommes Chateau
-
Cailles de Vigne au Raisins
Salade de Saison
-
Coupe Mexicaine
Mignardises
-
Café 6d.

Lunedi le 26 Decembre 1921

Here is Escoffier's recipe for the Tournedos Rossini.

Tournedos Rossini.
Seasoning: 4 tournedos, butter, 4 croûtons, fried in butter, meat jelly, 4 slices foie gras, Madeira, 12 slices truffle, dem-glace sauce.
Season and sauté the tournedos in butter. Cover each crouton with a little meat jelly and place the tournedos on top. Arrange on a serving dish. Sauté foie gras in butter and place a slice on each tournedos. Add a little Madeira to the pan in which the tournedos were cooked, boil, add the slice of truffle and the very well reduced demi-glace sauce. Pour over the tournedos.
Serve with a dish of noodles, mixed with butter and Parmesan cheese.

[As for the Royal Natives, you'll have to shoot a few for yourself today .... ]

Tomorrow’s Story...

Papal Pasta.

A Previous Story for this Day...

Last year we had a story set during the Boer War era, called 'Keeping Husbands at Home'.

Quotation for the Day.

From a commercial point of view, if Christmas did not exist it would be necessary to invent it. Katharine Whitehorn, English writer, in 1962.