The Red Red Hills of Hérault

I left you in Castres, in the delightful London room of the Hotel de l'Europe. Whatever plans we had for a leisurely lie-in were cut short upon looking at the weather forecast. Heading our way was a nasty storm, so we hurriedly got our stuff together, had a quick instant coffee from the selection in our room (I took a cappuccino which was quite filling - luckily), and jumped on the bike.

The previous evening had been mild and pleasant. The following morning was cold and damp. We set off into a misty 12°C along the D622 to Brassac, not seeing much.

Limited views of the countryside

I did note along the way an intriguing signpost to the "Trembling Rock of Seven Fakes" (Rocher tremblant de Sept Faux). It's one of the snazzier natural features of the granite that makes up the Sidobre site, a unique geological area 15 km long by 6.6 wide and 7.5-20 km deep. Along the road you can see giant granite boulders among the trees. The trembling rock is so-called because despite its 900 tonnes, you can move it with a mere wooden stick.

We outran the rain, thank goodness but the weather stayed cold and misty until we crossed into Hérault where it turned warm and sunny HURRAH!

Sunny St-Pons-de-Thomières

By this time, we were in search of breakfast, or brunch as it was pretty late. We stopped at a boulangerie, but they had nothing but unappetising croissants. I'm on a gluten-free kick at the moment to see if it has any effect on my joints, so I wasn't going to jeopardise that for a dodgy croissant. So far eating thusly hasn't had a noticeable effect but I've only been eating gluten-free for a couple of weeks. It takes several weeks to see a difference so I'm told. Unfortunately.

We continued on towards Bedarieux, going past the lovely village of Olargues (a PBV).

Olargues

And on to Bedarieux where hunger got the better of me and we stopped at MacDo for a chevre wrap. It was either that or just a measly salad. I was sure my joints could survive a wrap...

At Carlencas we turned off the main road and rode towards the Lac de Salagou. It was there we came into red hill country.

The red stone is locally called 'ruffe' which is a name particular to Hérault, from the Occitan word 'rufa' (from the Latin rufus - red). It's made up of clay sediments and iron oxide.

The pale area is a wheat field

 My DB said it reminded him of certain landscapes in the US.

A landscape of contrasts

Every now and then, you can see a basalt chimney which is evidence of intense volcanic activity in the distant past.

Basalt chimney near La Lieude

 We were on a small road, all the better to admire the dramatic scenery.

Between the layers of rock you can find a thin layer of shells

You sometimes see messages written in shells. Usually a declaration of undying love within a heart. So romantic.

A look-out post has been built on this basalt chimney

Near the hamlet of La Lieude is a basalt chimney with a look-out post. I think you can walk up to it which I'm sure gives a fantastic panorama over the area.

Love the stripy vineyard

At Salasc, we turned up in the direction of Octon and the lake.

Octon

Most people were enjoying lunch out on terrasses, including a large number of bikers. We didn't stop, having had our delicious MacDo wrap in the elegant surroundings of the commercial zone of Bedarieux...

Love this chappy, me hearties!

I've never noticed this little guy before. I don't know if he's a recent addition, but isn't he fab? He stands proud over the camp site.

Lac de Salagou, ruins of village of Celles in the distance

There's an excellent restaurant on the hills overlooking the  lake and ruined village of Celles. At least it was excellent when we went there last, which was some time ago admittedly. It's the Auberge du Lac at Le Puech. The menu still looks good.

We finished our trip along the green roads not long after this, taking the autoroute back as far as St Paul et Valmalle, then coming off to divert through Montarnaud and Grabels.

The colours are very vibrant at the moment. It's a terrific time to travel about the region. Spring is well-advanced and the warmer weather has brought the leaves and flowers out all fresh and new.

I feel so lucky to live down here.

Travelling through Haut Languedoc and les Grands Causses

For the last long weekend of May, my DB and I decided to take the motorbike and ride west to Castres. It was a lovely day, so I packed a picnic and we set off on the autoroute to Lodève, then took the charming D35 towards Lunas, a village of 400 inhabitants and a castle.

In the late spring, the gorse was out, lighting up the rolling hillsides with brilliant flashes of gold and heavenly sweet perfume.

Monts d'Orb

We took the tiny D135e2, a single track lane that wended its way through fields and forests. No crazy driving possible on this little road, we were able to admire the scenery at a leisurely pace, and it was well worth it.

Forests of Monts d'Orb

We disturbed a raptor along the road. It was by the road on our left and suddenly burst out across the front of the bike just feet away. I managed to get a photo of it as it flew off to our right.

At a few metres from us!

This is a shady spot along the tiny road, going through the forest of the Monts d'Orb.

Barely room to pass another vehicle...

We found a delightful picnic spot at the end of the D138 at Ceilhes-et-Rocozels situated by a lake and a camp site. A few picnic tables were dotted about which meant we could sit comfortably in our biking gear instead of uncomfortably on the ground. I looked towards the lake, my DB looked towards the bike. The toads on the banks serenaded each other at top volume and plopped into the lake as we approached the water's edge.

Camares

Not long after Ceilhes, we crossed into Aveyron, following the D902 which is green along the River Dourdou between Fayet and Camarès.

Belmont-sur-Rance

Another green road took us to Belmont-sur-Rance and it's dramatic church spire at the top of the hill.

From Belmont, we rode south (D32) to Lacaune, greeted at the entrance to the town by a splendid metalwork ham. Not quite Aoste or Parme, but I'm sure it tastes lovely. We didn't stop to find out, however.

Wonder what they produce in Lacaune...

One of the prettiest photos is this one at Lacaze - I love the green of the trees with the grey of the buildings, and the odd spot of dark purple, plus the lovely village and imposing bridge. It's very different in style from villages where I live in Hérault, but isn't that far away.

Pretty Lacaze

We reached Castres via Vabres and Brassac having telephoned ahead to reserve a room at the Hotel de l'Europe there. After a stunning ride, we were delighted to find our hotel was equally stunning in its own way. Here is the lobby, lit from above by a glass roof.

Hotel de l'Europe, Castres

The hotel blurb says that the building is a 17th century mix of baroque - part-Italian, part-Spanish

Keeping the evil spirits at bay? Hotel de l'Europe, Castres

I love the little crypt set into the exposed bricks on the landing. The colours positively hummed in the late afternoon sun. My reaction on walking into the lobby was simply "Wow!".

We were assigned the London room - how appropriate - which was a good 20m² and boasted a large bed, comfy chair, desk and ancient typewriter. For writing all those murder mysteries the Brits are so good at no doubt. On the wall were 12 small photos of famous Brits including Hitchcook, Lady Di, Queen Elizabeth I, etc. The bed could be backlit by a blue light for a smoochy atmosphere.

London room, Hotel de l'Europe, Castres

There was ample room for us and our kit!

London room, Hotel de l'Europe, Castres

The bathroom was a revelation with its large bath/jacuzzi. All this for 77 Eur!

Room for two! Hotel de l'Europe, Castres

A short walk from the hotel was the elegant central square, with its stylish buildings and vast open space.

Castres

We got a plan of the town from the hotel and walked around taking in the main sights. It didn't take long as Castres is a small town, and very compact as it used be walled. Along the river are the old tanners' houses which reminded me a little of Florence.

Tanner's houses, Castres

We finished our walk in the public gardens designed by André le Notre with its swirling low bushes, sculptured trees and very few flowers. Other places of interest in Castres include the Goya Museum located in a splendid former bishop's' palace, which houses the largest collection of Spanish art outside the Louvres.

Gardens designed by André le Notre, theatre in background

The Hotel Renaissance looks fab from the outside. It's a 4* hotel so I expect it's pretty fab on the inside too.

Hotel Renaissance 4*

We tested the bath/jacuzzi before dinner to the full and enjoyed the pummelling and water massage à deux. Sunday evening in France is not a good time to be looking for a restaurant even over a holiday weekend, but our hotel receptionist reserved us a table at Le Cercle a short walk away where we had a very pleasant meal and some good wine. It was about the only place open apart from dodgy kebab shops.

The bed was extremely comfortable and difficult to leave the next day!

Making an Effort

I'm feeling guilty. Yeah, I am. I should be writing about the incredibly important world events that are taking place - the banking crisis, for example. All that mis-management finally coming home to roost with catastrophic economic results across financial markets and elsewhere.

I listen to economic analysis on Radio Classique as I come back from taking my eldest to school. I'm listening but am I concentrating? Hmm... I'm also trying to navigate my way around dense traffic on dodgy roundabouts, and sit in traffic jams making sure I'm with it enough not to just go sailing into the car in front because I thought it was moving off. Easily done.

So I'm listening with only half an ear, the other half forming part of my 'Get home in one piece' brain activity. I've duly noted the rescue plan of $700b which was rejected, and has now been accepted by the Senate. I'm hoping that failed executive bankers are not going to receive their 'Get out of trouble with a $5m mercy package' but rather a good kick up the backside which is what they'd give their employees if they did something really professionally bad.

Then there's Sarah Palin, for whom ambition is everything, and short-sightedness not confined to her sight. If I were American, the mere prospect of her taking over from a defunct McCain as US prez would have me running for the ballot box with the biggest marker pen I could find and printing the blackest most indelible black cross next to Obama's name. America is in enough trouble as it is without yet another puppet prez at the helm.

As it is though, I can't really talk about any of that stuff because I'm in mourning. Our Helena (Frith Powell) has left France and moved to Abu Dhabi. Her husband accepted a job there (with Colin Randall?) and so, before the kids 'became totally French' they decided to bugger off, leave 'the' Languedoc and head for the desert.

Not sure why she refers to Languedoc thus. It's like people who say they're going to The Gower, when it's either The Gower Peninsula or just Gower. Languedoc is either The Languedoc Region, or just Languedoc. Would you say 'I'm going to The Essex'? Only if you were going down the pub, I hope.

Anyway, you'll be relieved to know that our Helena is taking with her her new found discovery of the joys of wearing matching undies, and that, living next to M&S in AD she'll be able to indulge her passion, although I presume she doesn't mean in the white cotton maxi knickers section...

She'll no longer be able to write about how perfect French women are, pandering to Daily Mail readers, and how much like everyone else they are to The Times readers who are not so dupe...

Once I've got over our sad loss, maybe I'll be able to get down to concentrating on world events...