Bella Notte in Baby Blue

I started working on this blouse many years ago.  I recall that it was started in my previous apartment, and that I didn't have the energy to deal with the buttonholes at the time, so I put it aside.  It doesn't seem that I took many photos of the sewing process, although I can recall being irritated about the drag lines around the top-stitched portions of the garment.

This photo is my old apartment hallway, and it looks like the top-stitching was about as far as I got before packing it away, sans buttonholes, buttons, and a hem (oh, and it appears that only a single cuff was attached at this point).

Well, back in 2020, I suddenly had the urge to go through a lot of my unfinished projects, and this was one of them.  Thankfully, I had packed the perfect matching buttons away with the pattern and the partially complete blouse, so I didn't have to go searching for them.

And at this point, I had a secret weapon . . . a vintage buttonholer that I found at an estate sale.

So I marked my buttonholes in thread and pulled out that Greist buttonholer.

I also found this chisel tool at a different estate sale and it is far superior to the one I purchased new.  The brand new one wouldn't cut through multiple layers of fabric; I even attempted using a hammer to create enough pressure.  Turns out, it wasn't me, it was the chisel.  A small amount of pressure with this vintage version does the job!

Once again proving that they don't make things like they used to!

When I first complete this blouse I was unsure about the size of the collar.  The pattern is from the 1950s, but that collar was reading as 1970s to me, which was not the look that I wanted.

But having worn it out quite a few times, I am now temped to make another.  And maybe I will have more success with that top-stitching the next time around! 

Shades of Green in Silk & Velvet

Last year I cut into this lovely silk/cotton blend jacquard.  I was hoping to have a warm weather dress in a Fall appropriate color for those transitional days when I am ready to wear darker colors, but the days are still quite warm.  The weather turned cold before I got very far with it, and since I did not feel like rushing through this project, it was abandoned.  

There really is something about lovely fabric that makes me slow down!  (Which is a good thing!)

This fabric was originally a very olive toned green.  I have no real problem with the shade, but it has a problem with me and my skin tone.  The obvious thing was to dye the fabric.  Since I have fiber reactive dye on hand, and since the textile contained cotton, I went with that.

The dye worked like a charm on the flat side (I suppose you could call it the “wrong” side) of the fabric, but not so much on the silk portion.  Go figure!  

I thought about overdying with an acid dye for a cross dyed look, but in the end, I just used the flat side of the fabric.  This makes the garment look slightly less dressy, which I rather like.

This design could use a bit of a swayback adjustment on me, but as long as I do not stand in direct sunlight and twist my torso, the wrinkles are not very noticeable.

It may not be the most perfectly executed garment I have ever made, but I really do like this dress.

The style lines are really lovely.  I may even have to make another version.

And because it got chilly before I had a chance to wear my new dress, I pulled out this old thrifted dress one to use as a cover up.  I really was determined to wear finish and wear this dress before another year passed!

Dress:  Made by me, Vogue 9103

Velvet Dress:  Thrifted, T. T. Mar

Necklace, vintage, borrowed from Mom
Shoes:  BP

Optional Embellishments

I love embellishments.  They really take a garment to the next level.  The only problem is, they can make caring for your clothing a bit difficult.

Laundering is a major issue.  Add beads to a dress and suddenly it becomes much more delicate.  Some beads are not washable, making even a hand soak in the kitchen sink a dangerous gamble.  Embroidery can be pulled and snagged, or colors can stain the background fabric.

Storage can be problematic as well.  Beaded items, for instance, should be laid flat. 

I decided I wanted to embellish my Anna dress, but I was not quite sure how.  And if I was unhappy with the outcome, the whole dress would be compromised.  Because no matter how careful you are, removing beading or embroidery is going to leave, at best, a bunch of holes, and at worst, snags in the fabric. 

And then I realized that a removable collar was a great solution.  This would solve most of my issues, making the dress washable and easily stored with no chance of catching beads or threads on another garment in the closet.  And, best of all, the dress can be worn without embellishment of any kind for a different look. 

I cut the fabric collar pieces using the bodice front and back as a guide (just like I would with a facing), extending into the neckline so that there is no chance of the dress edge showing above the collar.  The muslin collar turned out a bit wide, so I trimmed away the lower edge until I was happy with the look.

To stabilize the delicate silk/cotton jacquard, I underlined it with two layers of organza, and a layer of cotton.  

My initial thought was to cover the entire collar with beads.  I got as far as tracing my pieces onto butcher paper to draw out the design which would then be transferred to organza – I like to use this technique to transfer a design to fabric.  I came up with a few options, but nothing looked quite right to me.

The pretty jacquard floral pattern woven into the fabric kept jumping out at me.  So out came the embroidery floss.

I have already added a few beads to the center of the flowers, but I plan on adding a lot more!  This process is actually quite relaxing for me, so I am taking my time and enjoying the hand work.

Once the embroidery and beading is complete, I will cut another collar, turn under the seam allowances, and hand stitch the duplicate collar to the back of the embellished one to enclose the raw edges.  I anticipate using a hook & eye to close the collar at the center back.

Hooping the fabric may have been prudent, but I think the project will be okay.  Once the beads are added I believe the puckering will disappear.  Next time, though, I may start with a square of fabric and cut my pieces away after the embroidery is complete.

So the next time you are pondering what kind of embellishment to add to a garment, whether it be collars, cuffs, or belts, think about making them an optional add-on piece.  And who knows, the piece may come in handy for adding some sparkle to other outfits in your wardrobe!

[The pattern for this project was received in exchange for my contributions as a Sewing Indie Month sew-along host]

Gala Gown: The Unveiling

Here she is!

My “Ginger Rogers as Cinderella at the ball” gown.

The weather was perfect, the music was beautiful, and the party was fabulous!  And you really cannot ask for anything more than that.

But, on another note, I do have to admit that I am delighted to have completed this project - finally!  

The process was incredible, but there sure is a sense of relief and accomplishment to be finished.  Not to mention the fact that I can start on a new project!  

And you better believe that it is going to be something simple and basic that will not take a month to complete!

Dress & Capelet:  Made by me, Butterick 6408

Shoes:  BP

Earrings:  Kate Spade

Rings:  Grandmother’s engagement ring and Grandfather’s wedding ring

Bracelet:  Judith Jack

Cotton and Silk Afternoon Dress

Here is my latest finished project.  The description states that it is an “afternoon dress,” but I love it so much I think it deserves to be worn all day long!  Does anyone "dress for dinner" anymore?  

Thank you, again, Adey for the amazing pattern.  They just don’t make ‘em like they used to.  All of the extra special details make me realize that my love affair with vintage clothing is here to stay (but I bet you already knew that).

This project was originally part of a Sew Weekly challenge for VIP fabric.  Well, time got away from me, along with my motivation to finish the dress, and I missed the deadline by a mile.

While I was sewing this beautiful fabric, my mind kept flashing on the view I have as I drive home from work every day.  At sunset, the hills in Marin County turn this very color.  

The green floral jacquard pattern even mimics the green trees that spot the hills.

And guess what this week’s challenge is?  City Inspiration.  Well, now, that is just perfect!  How wonderful is it when everything comes together like that!?

I added a sleeve head made of cotton quilting batting to help keep the sleeves from looking droopy.  I generally use shoulder pads in my vintage dresses, but I think that the small rectangular strips work very well with this light weight fabric.

Looking at the photos, it looks like I need to add a snap to the end of that belt flap, but that’s an easy fix.

Overall, I have to say I am pleased that I saved this incredible fabric for this brilliant pattern!

Dress:  Made by me, Simplicity 3448

Shoes:  Colin Stuart for Victoria’s Secret

Earrings:  Gift