Simplicity sundress

I'm really thrilled to share my newest creation with you today as it's my first project for the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. 

When the UK finally started enjoying some proper sunshine this year, I realised there was a sundress-shaped gap in my wardrobe. By sundress, I mean something light with straps to keep you cool in the boiling sun. I have one dress of that description - my Colette Patterns Parfait - which is a fabulous workhorse of a dress, but I fancied a change in style. I'd pinned this lovely fifties vintage dress to Pinterest as inspiration and although I knew I didn't want the skirt on mine to be as full, I really wanted to recreate the neat, fitted bodice and contrast white bodice band. 

To do this I chose Simplicity 2176, which as sundress patterns go, is about as traditional as they come. It has a lovely, princess seamed bodice, a pleated skirt and endless strap combinations. As I outlined in this post, I'm not a natural wearer of pleats and thought long and hard about whether to include them or not. In the end I decided to just go for it and embrace the old fashioned look of the pattern.

As it's a warm weather dress, I chose a linen-look cotton in Royal Blue from Minerva Crafts. This fabric is fab: it's 100% cotton, drapes beautifully and has the look and feel of linen without all the tiresome creases. I underlined it to make it a bit more opaque using white silk cotton, and used white piqué fabric for the outer bodice band, both from my stash. I love the contrast of colours, they just look so fresh together.

There were no nasty surprises lurking in the instruction sheet and it all came together without incident - a lovely, easy make. Accustomed as I am to Simplicity patterns having way too much ease in them. I cut a size 12. Annoyingly, this pattern seems to be pretty true to its measurements and the bodice ended up a bit tight. Grrr! I reduced the side seam allowances which makes it a lot more comfortable to wear, but the bodice rides a bit higher than my natural waist because my boobs take up too much space! It's my own fault for being so lazy in the first place and not making a muslin - next time I'll definitely need to do a FBA! It's totally wearable as it is though and although I'm still getting used to the look of the pleats I do like them.  

Because of the pleats and neat bodice, this dress feels very ladylike - I should be wearing it with proper heels and gloves. In real life, I'll probably wear it with flip flops or wedges. Anyway, mission accomplished and I now have a sundress to add to my summer wardrobe.

If you fancy making your own sundress, Minerva Crafts have put together a great kit which you can purchase here. The kit comprises a copy of Simplicity 2176, two metres of Royal Blue linen-look cotton, matching thread and a 14 inch dress zip. Happy sewing! 

The kit was given to me free of charge as part of the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. All views my own.

Dressing for Yourself Colette Style

Like a lot of my blog posts, this one has been copied inspired by first Tasia's, then Karen's response to a section in the Colette Sewing Handbook.

Despite ordering the book 10 seconds (that's no exaggeration) after it was first announced on the blog back in the summer, it only arrived on my doorstep last week.  And, even worse,  it was left whimpering in the cupboard under the stairs for a whole day, after I'd tossed it there, thinking it was yet another Christmas present for my kids.  Anyway I digress, it's a wonderful, wonderful book and I've been trying to read it slowly and savour it ever since, but it's difficult to do!

In one of the chapters, Sarai discusses how we plan both what we wear and what we decide to make for ourselves. She suggests an exercise of picking out five things that you love to wear and why - which in turn, may give you clues on how to build a wardrobe around the qualities that are important to you.  I found both Tasia's and Karen's choices really interesting, but I was also very intrigued to read comments from their readers.  It's amazing how much of your personality and essence readers can glean from your blog:  how you dress and how you write and what it says about you.  So, completely jumping on the bandwagon, here are my five choices.

1. and 2. Beignet Skirt and Hillbilly Blouse
Beignet Skirt

The Beignet was one of the first things I ever made and probably the garment I've worn most.  Before I started sewing my own clothes I wouldn't have gone within 50 miles of a high waistband, but since the Beignet I've realised how flattering a high waistband is for my body shape.
I also like:

The colour (ahem)
The contrast buttons - they make me so happy just to look at them
The secret polka dot facings and pockets

The fact that it goes with most of my handmade tops, which leads me onto....

Hillbilly Blouse
What do I like?
The vintage fit and shape - it's from a 1950's pattern
The buttons
The fabric, I just can't resist gingham

3. Pendrell Blouses

 First Pendrell

 Second Pendrell

I've made three, two of which I've worn pretty much on a weekly basis since I first made them. The third wasn't so successful as I made the sleeveless version which for me, just didn't work.  I've since added sleeves so hope to get a lot more wear out of it in the warmer weather as the fabric is so lovely.

I especially like:
The flattering princess seams on the pattern
The longer length (interestingly the first one looks better untucked whilst the second one is more flattering tucked in, make of that what you will)
It's a practical blouse but the ruffle sleeves give it slightly more of a dressed up feel.

4. Sailor Trousers

Basically these are the trousers I've been waiting for all my life.  I can't really say much more than that.

5. Parfait Dress
I've only worn this a few times as it's very much a sun dress and I live in the UK (!)  But the Parfait ties together everything I set out to do when I started dressmaking.

It has a flattering fit and a vintage look which I love.  I think that's why I'm drawn to Colette patterns so much, because they help me achieve both these things.  It's also made from the most gorgeous double gauze fabric which is so lovely and cool to wear.  I'm so pleased I matched this particular pattern with this particular fabric.  It's fitted but practical enough for me to run around after the kids and still feel like I'm making an effort.

So there, that's me in a nutshell.  My choice is based on what I've worn the most and what is quintessentially me.  Quite a lot of my handmade garments all work with each other but I like the fact that there are a few wild cards in my wardrobe (not many though!).  I don't think you need to be Einstein to work out the patterns that appear in my handmade clothes, do you?!

That was a great exercise to do, why don't you try it?  Have a great weekend everybody. x

Finished Parfait

Sewing-wise I’ve been going a bit mad on separates recently, which is all well and good, but sometimes, especially when the sun comes out, nothing fits the bill quite like a sundress.  When it’s hot - and it has been hot in London recently, despite the depressing downpour today - a dress is just so comfortable, no tucking in required.

I don’t actually own a proper, strappy sundress -  a couple of shirt dresses and wrap dresses, but nothing that screams ‘wear me on the beach’.  I decided to make the Colette Patterns Parfait to take on holiday in a few week’s time. Sadly my sewing time will be drastically reduced over the next few weeks, due to the small matter of having my children at home with me every day! So I just about finished it before the school holidays started.  I’m glad I did, as I’ve been able to wear it in the London sun.  It’s SSOOO lovely and cool to wear and such a comfortable shape. 

I chose a silvery grey Japanese double gauze fabric which I got from Fabric Tales during a splurge at the end of last year. I’m glad I waited to use it for this dress as it’s just perfect.  I’ve sewn with double gauze before, and it really does have magical properties: it’s warm and cosy when it’s cold and light and cool when it’s hot.  I also love the print of the fabric – a tree print with random animals scattered around.  Here's a tip for when your children are bored: get them to find all the animals on mummy’s dress!  So far they’ve found a crow, a donkey, a stag, a fox and a rat (!)

I was pretty relieved with the way the fabric looked once it was cut out and sewn together.  There wasn’t enough fabric to have a go at matching the pattern (plus I wouldn’t really know where to start).  I like the donkey walking across the middle of the skirt, I’m not so keen on the rat on my right boob….

Apart from the Crepe dress which was a bit of a wild card when it came to fitting, I seem to be pretty much a standard size 8 for Colette Patterns.  The Parfait was no exception, although I did decide to ride by the seat of my pants and not make a muslin.  Fitting the bodice as you go along is actually part of the instructions, and I only needed to take it in a tiny bit at the sides, otherwise it’s a good fit.  The pattern itself was the usual high standard you'd expect from Colette Patterns: straight forward instructions with all the stages making sense!

The Parfait has some lovely details: a midriffed bodice, gathered bust and buttoned shoulder straps.  I didn’t add the gathered pockets as I thought they’d get a little lost amongst all the wildlife.  The only thing I didn’t like about making this dress was the invisible side zip.  It’s a personal gripe – I just find side zips in a dress a pain to put in, especially when it’s got to zip over a midriff section which invariably consists of a couple of layers plus interfacing.  I much prefer putting zips in centrally, but that’s just me.

Having now worn the dress two days running, I can confirm it’s a winner.  The panelled skirt and midriff are very flattering and the cut of the bodice and straps cleverly conceal your bra straps – a big bonus in my book.  I really like the shape and design of the dress – it’s comfortable and roomy enough to run around after the kids in, yet fitted enough so you still feel like you’re making an effort.  I can’t wait to wear it on holiday now. x