TMNT Michaelangelo

Ok,  well I don't guess this guy needs any real explanation or introduction.   Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles just recently celebrated their '27th' anniversary as some of the most beloved and well-known characters in our world.   I had intentions of making this doll a few years ago,  but just kept putting it off for one reason or another....and finally just had to do it.

Those of you who are followers of my FaceBook Page saw the 'sneak peek' a few days ago,  and the response was, to say the least,  incredible.   Turtles are something most of us can relate to,  since they've been around for so long.   I hope that this doll and pattern will please the 'hardcore' turtle fans who have been there since the beginning through all their 'changes'....  since this doll was mostly patterned after the 'old-school' original series.

Having been a fan of TMNT since the beginning myself,   I'm most fond of the 'original' series - thus the reason this doll is made that way.   The basic pattern can easily be made to create all four of the turtles,  by simply changing the colors of the bandana and the weapons to represent the turtle of your choice.   If I had enough greens to make them all I would...  but I'll leave that up to all the wonderfully creative crocheters out there!  :D

As always,  if you find any typoes or mistakes in the pattern,  please let me know,  I'll correct them ASAP.



Mikey

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in choice of green (with smaller amounts of brown, tan and colors for bandana)
G crochet Hook
Fiberfill
yarn needle
Small scraps of white and black felt for eyes/mouth

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important,  as long as your yarn, hook and tension result in stitches that are even and don't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

Magic ring instructions can be found easily by a websearch for 'crochet magic ring' .  YouTube also has some very good video instructions by searching for 'crochet magic ring' on YouTube.



HEAD:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (35)
Rnd 6-10:  sc in each sc around  (35)
Rnd 11:  sc in next 10 sc,  2 sc in each of next 15 sc,  sc in remaining 10 sc  (50)
Rnd 12-13:  sc in each sc around  (50)
Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (40)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already.  Stuff firmly,  without overstuffing,  while shaping the 'face' as you go.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)
Rnd 16:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (20)
Rnd 17:  dec over next 2 sc around  (10)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (10)
F/O leaving a tail.  Finish adding any stuffing needed to shape head properly.  Weave the tail through the last row of 10 sc,  tug gently to 'close up' the opening.  Secure and weave in end.

BODY:

Rnd 1:  7 sc in magic ring  (7)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (14)
Rnd 3:  sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (21)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (28)
Rnd 6: sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 3 sc,  sc in next 11 sc,  2 sc in each of remaining 3 sc  (34)
Rnd 7:  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 16 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (36)
Rnd 8-9:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 10:  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of next 3 sc,  sc in next 15 sc,  2 sc in each of last 3 sc (42)
Rnd 11-20:  sc in each sc around  (42)
Rnd 21:  sc in next 15 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times), sc in next 15 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (36)
Rnd 22:  sc in each sc around  (36)
Rnd 23:  sc in next 12 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times) (30)
Rnd 24:  sc in each sc around  (30)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already.  Stuff body firmly while shaping  but avoid overstuffing.  Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 25:  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times),  sc in next 9 sc,  dec over next 2 sc  (repeat decrease 2 more times)  (24)
Rnd 26:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)
Rnd 27:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)
F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Secure end and weave in.  Leave neck opening as is.

ARMS  (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3-6:  sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Begin stuffing at this point,  do not overstuff but stuff moderately firmly to shape the 'muscles' of the shoulder, upper arm and lower arm as you progress.
Rnd 8: sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 9-11:  sc in each sc around  (even)
Rnd 12: sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (8)
Rnd 13:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)
Rnd 14-18: sc in each sc around  (10)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (5)
Flatten end,  sc across opening through all layers  (3 sc)
Rnd 20:  chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand (rnd 19).   chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand  - two fingers made.   Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next chain,  slip stitch along 'side' of hand (between rnd 18 and 19) to create 'thumb'
F/O and weave end in.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  working in back loops only for this round,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (12)
Rnd 3-7:  (working again through both loops) sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 8:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)
Rnd 9: 2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 10-15:  sc in each sc around  12)
Rnd 16:  sc in next 7 sc,  chain 7,  Join chain to first sc of this round.  (7 sc, 7 chs)
Rnd 17:  sc in each sc and chain around (14)
Rnd 18:  sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 19:  dec over next 2 sc around  (7)
F/O.  Weave in ends.
Stuff the leg (while shaping).  Stuff moderately firm without overstuffing.  'Hip' is either not stuffed  (flattened) or *very* lightly stuffed.   Leg is pinned to side/bottom of body as shown,  with 'hip' cape/flap to the outside and 'opening' at top of leg underneath.    Very small amounts of stuffing can be added to the cape at the 'hip' to provide more shape if needed.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-3:  sc in each sc around  (6)
Rnd 4:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (12)
Rnd 9:  Flatten 'foot',  sc across top through all layers  (6 sc).  Turn.
sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to next sc of row 9.   Sc in next 3 sc,  turn,  sc in next 3 sc,  turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot,  slip stitch to row 9  (between the two 'toes').
F/O, secure and weave in end.
(NOTE:  Feet in the doll shown were not stuffed,  just flattened.  If you wish to add a *very* small amount of stuffing to the feet to give them a little more 'size'  do this before you close the opening by sc across the top,  then proceed as is written from there)

Feet are sewn as shown to the bottom of the legs.  Make sure that you have the feet facing in the correct direction .  (I find that pinning the legs to the doll and then pinning/sewing the feet to the bottom of the legs is most helpful as it ensures you have the right direction on both of the feet,  and the best angle as well)

BELLY PLATE:

(using tan)

Row 1:  chain 6,  sc in second chain from hook and each chain across ,  turn  (5)
Row 2:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (7)
Row 3:  sc in each sc across  (7)
Row 4:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (9)
Row 5:  sc in each sc across  (9)
Row 6:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn   (11)
Row 7:  sc in each sc across  (11)
Row 8:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn    (13)
Row 9:  sc in each sc across  (13)
Row 10:  2 sc in first sc,   sc in each sc across to last sc,  2 sc in last sc,  turn  (15)
Row 11-24:  sc in each sc across  (15)
Row 25:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  slip stitch to next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 26:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
Row 27:   sc in first sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  slip stitch to next stitch,  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc,  sc in last sc
F/O.   Weave in ends.   Using brown yarn and yarn needle,  add the detailing to the plate as shown in photos.

SHELL:

(Using brown)

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring  (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Rnd 3:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (24)
Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (24)
Rnd 5:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 8 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (32)
Rnd 6:  sc in each sc around  (32)
Rnd 7:  2 sc in each of the next 2 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of the next 4 sc,  sc in next 12 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (40)
Rnd 8:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (48)
Rnd 9-10:  sc in each sc around  (48)

SHELL RIM:

Rnd 1:  ch 6,  join to make ring,  sc in each chain around (6)
Rnd 2-?:  sc in each sc around (6 sc each round) until the tube will easily reach around the outside of the shell (the number of rounds will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tensions differences)  Tube does not need to be stuffed, but if you wish, you can VERY lightly stuff the tube to give it more rigidity.   When the tube will easily fit around the outside edge of the shell,  F/O and sew ends of tube together.  Pin and sew tube to outside edge of shell.   Shell will be stuffed when sewn to the back of the turtle.

ELBOW/KNEE PADS:

Elbow pads (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around arm at elbow  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences).    F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

KNEE PADS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2:  2 hdc in each sc around  (16)
Do not fasten off,  continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around leg at knee  (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences)  F/O leaving tail.  Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'.  Weave in ends.

BANDANA:

Using color of choice:

Chain 2.  Sc in second chain from hook,  turn.
Sc in sc,  turn
2 sc in sc,  turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for approx. 20 rows  (more if you want a longer tail on the bandana)
Next row:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (4)
Continue with rows of 4 sc until this section of the bandana will just wrap around the head above the 'nose' as shown.
Next row:  Decrease over next 2 sc, twice, turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for the same length as before (2)
Decrease over next 2 sc, turn (1)
Sc in sc.
F/O, weave in ends.

"EYEBROWS":

Chain about 20  (check and see if you want more or less 'brow')   Place in the shape of the brows over the top of the bandana.  (this is probably best done after construction of the doll and eyes are in place so that you can see how much or how little 'brow' you want on your turtle)

BELT:

Chain 3,  sc in second chain from hook and next sc , turn (2)
Continue rows of 2 sc for length desired for belt.   Belt  goes around the shell,  so it's probably best to wait until doll is fully assembled before making the belt so that you can try it around the doll as you make it to ensure it's the length you want.

NUNCHUCKS:

(make 2)

Row 1:  Chain 11, sc in second chain from hook and each chain across,  turn  (10)
Row 2-3:  sc in each sc across, turn (10)
F/O leaving tail.  With yarn needle,  fold in half long ways and sew together with whip stitch.
Weave in tail.

Chain (make 1):

Chain approx 20 (or length desired).   Attach each end to one of the 'chucks'.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing to ensure you're happy with everything befoe making it permanent.

Head is sewn to top of body at neck opening.  Belly Plate is sewn to front of body.   Arms and legs are sewn to body positioned as desired.

Elbow and knee pads are placed on arms and legs as shown,  they can be tacked on with a few stitches if you want.

Eyes are made by cutting pieces of felt and sewing/gluing them to the bandana.  Mouth is made by cutting a piece of felt and sewing/gluing to the face as desired.  Facial expressions can vary from turtle to turtle to give them each their own personality.

The doll can be made to represent any of the Turtles,  by changing the color of the bandana, weapons and even facial expressions.


Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and the character Michaelangelo are copyright/trademarked of their original creators.


This pattern is an original crochet pattern and is © by Linda Potts (March 2011).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not add it to any collection on cd/dvd, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 

Cyndaquil Plushie

I finally decided to make a Cyndaquil.  It's my starter pokemon in HeartGold, and I really do love it :D

The flames on the back are made a little differently,  but it's not hard to do.  If you have any questions or find any problems with the pattern,  please let me know and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Cyndaquil

Materials

WW Yarn yellow , blue, red and gold (or a light orange)

G Hook

Black Embroidery thread

Fiberfill

Yarn Needle

NOTES:  

Gauge is not very important as long as your hook and yarn choice results in a consistent stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming through.

Numbers in  ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row. 

HEAD and BODY:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)

Rnd 5:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)

Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)

Rnd 7-12:  sc in each sc around  (36)

Rnd 13:  sc in next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)

Rnd 14:  sc in next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)

Rnd 15:  sc in next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Begin stuffing here,  stuff firmly while shaping.  Continue to stuff as you progress down the body.

Rnd 16:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (24)

Rnd 17:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (30)

Rnd 18:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (36)

Rnd 19-21:  sc in each sc around  (36)

Rnd 22:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (42)

Rnd 23-30:  sc in each sc around  (42)

Rnd 31:  sc next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (36)

Rnd 32:  sc next 4 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (30)

Rnd 33:  sc next 3 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (24)

Rnd 34:  sc next 2 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Rnd 35:  sc next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)

Rnd 36:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)

F/O.  Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body.  Weave end through final round and gently pull to close opening.  Secure and weave in ends.

SNOUT:

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)

Rnd 3:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)

Rnd 4:  sc in each sc around  (10)

Rnd 5:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)

Rnd 6:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (14)

Rnd 7:  sc in each sc around  (14)

Rnd 8:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)

Rnd 9:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around  (18)

Rnd 11:  2 sc in each of next 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in each of last 2 sc  (22)

F/O.  Stuff snout firmly to shape.  Pin to front of head with ‘longer’ end close to the neck portion of the body.  (see images for help with placement).  Sew securely to head.  Add any stuffing around the edges as you sew if you see the need for it to help the snout maintain its shape.

STRIPE:

(using blue)

Row 1:  Ch 3,  sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in next ch.  (2)

Row 2:  sc in both sc  (2)

Row 3:  2 sc in each of sc across  (4)

Row 4-6:  sc in each sc across  (4)

Row 7:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (6)

Row 8-10:  sc in each sc across  (6)

Row 11:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (8)

Row 12:  sc in each sc across  (8)

Row 13:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (10)

Row 14-24:  sc in each sc across  (10)

Row 25:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (12)

Row 26-34:  sc in each sc across  (12)

Row 35:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc  (14)

Row 36:  sc in each sc across  (14)

Row 37:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (16)

Row 38:  sc in each sc across  (16)

Row 39:  2 sc in first sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  2 sc in last sc  (18)

Row 40-50:  sc in each sc across  (18)

Row 51:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 14 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (16)

Row 52:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 12 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (14)

Row 53:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 10 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (12)

Row 54:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 8 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (10)

Row 55:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 6 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (8)

Row 56:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 4 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (6)

Row 57:  dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each of next 2 sc,  dec over last 2 sc  (4)

F/O.  Weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  4 sc in magic ring  (4)

Rnd 2:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc  (6)

Rnd 3:  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 2 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (8)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 3 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (10)

Rnd 5:  sc in each sc around  (10)

Rnd 6:  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc,  sc in next 4 sc,  2 sc in next sc  (12)

Begin Shoulder:

sc in next 6 sc,  (leave remaining sc unworked)  turn  (6)

dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)

dec over first 2 sc,  sc in each remaining sc across  (4)

F/O.  Weave in ends.  Stuff arm firmly while shaping.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring  (6)

Rnd 2:  2 sc in each sc around  (12)

Rnd 3:  sc in next sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (18)

Rnd 4:  sc in next 5 sc,  2 sc in next sc around  (21)

Rnd 5-8:  sc in each sc around  (21)

Rnd 9:  sc in next 5 sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (18)

Rnd 10:  sc in next sc,  dec over next 2 sc around  (12)

Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already.  Stuff moderately firmly  (you’ll need to be able to slightly flatten this part of the leg when sewing it to the body,  so don’t over-stuff)

Rnd 11:  dec over next 2 sc around  (6)

F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish the shape.  Do not close the opening.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1:  6 sc in magic ring,  join with slip stitch to first sc of round to form circle (6)

Rnd 2:  In same sc as joining,  ch1, sc, dc, sc;   slip stitch in next sc 

F/O.  Weave in ends and sew the foot to the opening of the leg.  Foot is sewn with round 1 over the opening,  leaving rnd 2 ‘free’ for the ‘toes’

FLAMES:

RED flame (make 2)

The flames are made with a base,  and randomly placed points.   First,  make your base which is more or less a ‘half circle’:

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 hdc in 2^nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)

Row 2:  2 hdc in each hdc across, turn  (12)

Row 3:  hdc in first hdc,  2 hdc in next hdc across , ending with 2 hdc in last stitch,  turn  (18)

Row 4:  repeat row 3  (24) 

Do not fasten off.   Begin making the points.   Add your points randomly from the sizes below.  When you reach the end of your row,  add whatever point will fit nicely there.   Try to vary the sizes across the base,  so that the effect is more like an ‘explosion’ rather than a contrived or patterned look.

The points are made as such,  there are several different ‘sizes’ that I used.  I tried several patterns of points,  but they all looked too stiff and un-natural.   I found that randomly adding the points gave a far nicer ‘explosion’ look.   The different sizes of points I used are as follows:

1:  Ch 5.  Slip stitch in 2^nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch, dc in last ch.  Skip 2 stitches on the base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

2:  Ch 6.  Slip stitch in 2^nd ch from hook,  sc in next ch,  hdc in next ch,  dc in next ch,  trbl in last ch.  Skip 3 stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

3:  Ch 8.  Slip stitch in 2^nd ch from hook,  sc in each of next 2 chs,  hdc in next ch,  dc in each of next 2 chs,  trbl in last ch.  Skip three stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

Experiment with different random patterns of the points until you are happy with how it looks. 

After making the last point,  F/O and weave in ends.  (the points will want to curl some, that’s normal and adds to the ‘effect’… but I did use an iron to ‘VERY GENTLY’ press the points with a little spray starch so that they wouldn’t curl too tightly.   If you don’t have an iron that’s ok,  you can just pull the points straight… they’ll curl back up,  but if you pull them out several times,  over time the points will relax and stay a good bit straighter.

GOLD flame  (make 2)

Row 1:  Ch 2,  6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook.  Turn  (6)

Row 2:  2 sc in each sc across, turn  (12)

Row 3:  sc in first sc,  2 sc in next sc across , ending with 2 sc in last stitch,  turn  (18)

Here again,  use the same points described above to create a random pattern on each of the Gold bases in the same manner as for the red ones.    This is basically the same as the red flame,  just smaller.

Place the 2 red flames together with ‘wrong’ sides to the inside,  sew  them together along the ‘domed’ base leaving the points free and the bottom ‘edge’ open.  (just sew along the row 4 of the base) 

Take one of the gold flames,  and place in front of one side of the red flames (as shown in the pictures)  and sew along the base around the domed part  attaching it that side of the red flame.  Repeat on the other side with the other gold flame. 

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

Carefully pin the blue stripe to the body beginning at the tip of the nose  pin along the snout, over the head  (pulling slightly at the neck to keep it taught as you pin)  then pin across the back to the bottom end of the body.   Take care to keep it straight and taught across the head/body as you pin.

When you’re pleased with the position of the stripe,  sew it carefully and securely removing the pins as you go,  and making sure that you keep it taught, straight and even down the body.

Place the arms as shown on the front of the body  (the ‘shoulder’  will allow you to place the arms facing forward instead of straight out.  Pin to the body and adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with how they look,  sew them securely to the body.

Determine which leg goes on each side  (making sure ‘toes’ face forward)  and gently flatten the side of the leg that will be against the body.  Pin to the body as shown in the pictures,  adjust as needed.  When you’re happy with the placement and position of the legs,  sew them securely to the body.

Eyes are embroidered as shown using a back stitch.  Nostrils are just a couple of whip stitches placed at the end of the nose as shown.

Place and pin the flames as shown down the center of the back of the body.  You may wish to add a very small amount of stuffing inside the base (dome) of the red flames to give it a little more ‘size’,  but that’s optional.   Be certain the flames are centered and straight.  Sew carefully and securely to the body,  removing the pins as you go,  and making sure it doesn’t get off–center as you sew.

Cyndaquil and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.