WolfDreamer: crochet plushie

Showing posts with label crochet plushie. Show all posts

Thursday, March 10, 2011

TMNT Michaelangelo

Ok, well I don't guess this guy needs any real explanation or introduction. Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles just recently celebrated their '27th' anniversary as some of the most beloved and well-known characters in our world. I had intentions of making this doll a few years ago, but just kept putting it off for one reason or another....and finally just had to do it.

Those of you who are followers of my FaceBook Page saw the 'sneak peek' a few days ago, and the response was, to say the least, incredible. Turtles are something most of us can relate to, since they've been around for so long. I hope that this doll and pattern will please the 'hardcore' turtle fans who have been there since the beginning through all their 'changes'.... since this doll was mostly patterned after the 'old-school' original series.

Having been a fan of TMNT since the beginning myself, I'm most fond of the 'original' series - thus the reason this doll is made that way. The basic pattern can easily be made to create all four of the turtles, by simply changing the colors of the bandana and the weapons to represent the turtle of your choice. If I had enough greens to make them all I would... but I'll leave that up to all the wonderfully creative crocheters out there! :D

As always, if you find any typoes or mistakes in the pattern, please let me know, I'll correct them ASAP.

Mikey

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in choice of green (with smaller amounts of brown, tan and colors for bandana)
G crochet Hook
Fiberfill
yarn needle
Small scraps of white and black felt for eyes/mouth

NOTES:

Gauge isn't important, as long as your yarn, hook and tension result in stitches that are even and don't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

Magic ring instructions can be found easily by a websearch for 'crochet magic ring' . YouTube also has some very good video instructions by searching for 'crochet magic ring' on YouTube.

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35)
Rnd 6-10: sc in each sc around (35)
Rnd 11: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 15 sc, sc in remaining 10 sc (50)
Rnd 12-13: sc in each sc around (50)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Begin stuffing here if you haven't already. Stuff firmly, without overstuffing, while shaping the 'face' as you go. Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 17: dec over next 2 sc around (10)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (10)
F/O leaving a tail. Finish adding any stuffing needed to shape head properly. Weave the tail through the last row of 10 sc, tug gently to 'close up' the opening. Secure and weave in end.

BODY:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (21)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 6: sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in each of remaining 3 sc (34)
Rnd 7: sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in last sc (36)
Rnd 8-9: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 10: sc in next 15 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 15 sc, 2 sc in each of last 3 sc (42)
Rnd 11-20: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 21: sc in next 15 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 2 more times), sc in next 15 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 2 more times) (36)
Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 23: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 2 more times), sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 2 more times) (30)
Rnd 24: sc in each sc around (30)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff body firmly while shaping but avoid overstuffing. Continue stuffing as you progress.
Rnd 25: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 2 more times), sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc (repeat decrease 2 more times) (24)
Rnd 26: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 27: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body. Secure end and weave in. Leave neck opening as is.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 7: dec over next 2 sc around (8)
Begin stuffing at this point, do not overstuff but stuff moderately firmly to shape the 'muscles' of the shoulder, upper arm and lower arm as you progress.
Rnd 8: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around (even)
Rnd 12: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (8)
Rnd 13: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 14-18: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 19: dec over next 2 sc around (5)
Flatten end, sc across opening through all layers (3 sc)
Rnd 20: chain 3, sc in second chain from hook and next chain, slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand (rnd 19). chain 3, sc in second chain from hook and next chain, slip stitch to next sc along 'top' of hand - two fingers made. Chain 3, sc in second chain from hook and next chain, slip stitch along 'side' of hand (between rnd 18 and 19) to create 'thumb'
F/O and weave end in.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: working in back loops only for this round, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 3-7: (working again through both loops) sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 8: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
Rnd 9: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 10-15: sc in each sc around 12)
Rnd 16: sc in next 7 sc, chain 7, Join chain to first sc of this round. (7 sc, 7 chs)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc and chain around (14)
Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 19: dec over next 2 sc around (7)
F/O. Weave in ends.
Stuff the leg (while shaping). Stuff moderately firm without overstuffing. 'Hip' is either not stuffed (flattened) or *very* lightly stuffed. Leg is pinned to side/bottom of body as shown, with 'hip' cape/flap to the outside and 'opening' at top of leg underneath. Very small amounts of stuffing can be added to the cape at the 'hip' to provide more shape if needed.

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2-3: sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 4: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 5-8: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 9: Flatten 'foot', sc across top through all layers (6 sc). Turn.
sc in next 3 sc, turn, sc in next 3 sc, turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot, slip stitch to next sc of row 9. Sc in next 3 sc, turn, sc in next 3 sc, turn slip stitch across the 3 sc, and down the side to the main part of the foot, slip stitch to row 9 (between the two 'toes').
F/O, secure and weave in end.
(NOTE: Feet in the doll shown were not stuffed, just flattened. If you wish to add a *very* small amount of stuffing to the feet to give them a little more 'size' do this before you close the opening by sc across the top, then proceed as is written from there)

Feet are sewn as shown to the bottom of the legs. Make sure that you have the feet facing in the correct direction . (I find that pinning the legs to the doll and then pinning/sewing the feet to the bottom of the legs is most helpful as it ensures you have the right direction on both of the feet, and the best angle as well)

BELLY PLATE:

(using tan)

Row 1: chain 6, sc in second chain from hook and each chain across , turn (5)
Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (7)
Row 3: sc in each sc across (7)
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (9)
Row 5: sc in each sc across (9)
Row 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (11)
Row 7: sc in each sc across (11)
Row 8: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (13)
Row 9: sc in each sc across (13)
Row 10: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (15)
Row 11-24: sc in each sc across (15)
Row 25: sc in first sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, slip stitch to next sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last sc
Row 26: sc in first sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, slip stitch to next stitch, sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last sc
Row 27: sc in first sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, slip stitch to next stitch, sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in last sc
F/O. Weave in ends. Using brown yarn and yarn needle, add the detailing to the plate as shown in photos.

SHELL:

(Using brown)

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc (24)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 5: 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc (32)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (32)
Rnd 7: 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc (40)
Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around (48)

SHELL RIM:

Rnd 1: ch 6, join to make ring, sc in each chain around (6)
Rnd 2-?: sc in each sc around (6 sc each round) until the tube will easily reach around the outside of the shell (the number of rounds will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tensions differences) Tube does not need to be stuffed, but if you wish, you can VERY lightly stuff the tube to give it more rigidity. When the tube will easily fit around the outside edge of the shell, F/O and sew ends of tube together. Pin and sew tube to outside edge of shell. Shell will be stuffed when sewn to the back of the turtle.

ELBOW/KNEE PADS:

Elbow pads (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Do not fasten off, continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around arm at elbow (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences). F/O leaving tail. Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'. Weave in ends.

KNEE PADS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each sc around (16)
Do not fasten off, continue with strap as follows:
Sc in next 2 sc, turn
Sc in 2 sc, turn
Repeat rows of 2 sc until strap will reach around leg at knee (exact number of rows will vary from person to person due to yarn, hook and tension differences) F/O leaving tail. Sew end of strap to opposite side of 'pad'. Weave in ends.

BANDANA:

Using color of choice:

Chain 2. Sc in second chain from hook, turn.
Sc in sc, turn
2 sc in sc, turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for approx. 20 rows (more if you want a longer tail on the bandana)
Next row: 2 sc in each sc across, turn (4)
Continue with rows of 4 sc until this section of the bandana will just wrap around the head above the 'nose' as shown.
Next row: Decrease over next 2 sc, twice, turn (2)
Continue with rows of 2 sc for the same length as before (2)
Decrease over next 2 sc, turn (1)
Sc in sc.
F/O, weave in ends.

"EYEBROWS":

Chain about 20 (check and see if you want more or less 'brow') Place in the shape of the brows over the top of the bandana. (this is probably best done after construction of the doll and eyes are in place so that you can see how much or how little 'brow' you want on your turtle)

BELT:

Chain 3, sc in second chain from hook and next sc , turn (2)
Continue rows of 2 sc for length desired for belt. Belt goes around the shell, so it's probably best to wait until doll is fully assembled before making the belt so that you can try it around the doll as you make it to ensure it's the length you want.

NUNCHUCKS:

(make 2)

Row 1: Chain 11, sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn (10)
Row 2-3: sc in each sc across, turn (10)
F/O leaving tail. With yarn needle, fold in half long ways and sew together with whip stitch.
Weave in tail.

Chain (make 1):

Chain approx 20 (or length desired). Attach each end to one of the 'chucks'.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend pinning all the parts together before sewing to ensure you're happy with everything befoe making it permanent.

Head is sewn to top of body at neck opening. Belly Plate is sewn to front of body. Arms and legs are sewn to body positioned as desired.

Elbow and knee pads are placed on arms and legs as shown, they can be tacked on with a few stitches if you want.

Eyes are made by cutting pieces of felt and sewing/gluing them to the bandana. Mouth is made by cutting a piece of felt and sewing/gluing to the face as desired. Facial expressions can vary from turtle to turtle to give them each their own personality.

The doll can be made to represent any of the Turtles, by changing the color of the bandana, weapons and even facial expressions.

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and the character Michaelangelo are copyright/trademarked of their original creators.

This pattern is an original crochet pattern and is © by Linda Potts (March 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not add it to any collection on cd/dvd, sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Badtz Maru Plushie

Well I kinda did this guy on a lark. I've been sort of feeling under the weather and resting alot this week, and decided to work on a smaller project that was just 'fun'. So on the suggestion of a friend of mine, I made Badtz Maru.

I didn't want to make him just 'sitting there' and seeing that he's got such a cute and playful attitude - and he's well known for making faces, I decided to make him sticking out his tongue (cause it seemed to be a common pose for him and it made me laugh )

Hope you enjoy him, it was just a little side project to keep me from being too bored :D

Materials:

WW yarn black, white and yellow

Fiberfill

G Hook

Yarn needle

Sewing thread to match yarn and sewing needle

small bits of felt in white, black and red

Notes:

Gauge isn't terribly important on this project, as long as your choice of yarn and hook and your individual tension result in an even, firm stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

Head/Body:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 7- 17: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)

Rnd 19: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (32)

Rnd 20: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 21: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 22: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 23-28: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 29: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 30-32: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 33: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (36)

F/O. Do not close opening. Make sure head/body is stuffed and shaped well.

BOTTOM:

Row 1: ch 15 , sc in second ch from hook and each chain across (14)

Row 2-4: sc in each sc across (14)

EDGING:P sc even around entire piece, slip stitch to beginning sc to end.

F/O. Weave in ends.

Place body bottom piece at opening of body. Using black sewing thread and needle, bring the body opening edges in to meet up with the 'bottom' piece. Sewing together securely. The stitches won't match up 'exactly' that's ok, just ease in the body edges to the bottom piece. This should create a slightly narrow and flat bottom.

WHITE BELLY DECORATION:

Row 1: ch 2. 4 sc in second chain from hook (do not join, turn) (4)

Row 2: 2 sc in each sc across (turn) (8)

Row 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc across (turn) (12)

Row 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc across (turn) (16)

Row 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc across (turn) (20)

Row 6. Sc in each sc across, do not turn, ch 1 and begin sc evenly across 'bottom', place last sc in side of first sc of row 6. Ch1 turn

Row 7: sc in each sc across,

F/O weave in end. Pin and then sew to front of body as shown.

ARMS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 5-8: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 9: 5 sc , turn

Rnd 10: 4 sc turn

Rnd 11: 3 sc.

F/O. Stuff and weave in ends.

BEAK:

Rnd 1: Ch 6, sc in second chain from hook and each chain to end, turn work around and now working down other side of starting chain, sc in each free loop to end. Slip stitch to first sc (10)

Rnd 2: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (16)

F/O, weave in end. Cut piece of red felt in the tongue shape desired, place in between the two 'open' ends of the beak. Flatten and match edges. Sew through all layers. Secure thread and weave loose ends. (add a touch of detail with some black thread on the tongue as shown)

FEET (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic circle (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 5: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Weave in ends. Foot isn't stuffed just flattened.

'HAIR' SPIKES (make 4):

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (10)

F/O. Stuff 'tails' into spike (add a tiny bit of fiberfill if you like to help shape the spikes)

TAIL:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)

F/O and weave ends. Don't stuff.

ASSEMBLY:

Pin all parts to the doll as shown (or as desired). Once you're satisfied with the look, sew all your parts to the dolls securely. I put the arms on either side of the body, where the head/body meet and positioned them to where they are 'pulling' on the beak from either side.

Tail is added just under the backside of the body (I don't know if Badtz actually *has* a tail, but the way I ended up doing the bottom part of the body to get the shape I wanted, it was off balance with only the feet, so the 'tail' is the third point of support and makes it to where he'll sit up on his own)

Eyes are made from scraps of felt with tiny dots of black felt (a sequin will work here too) .

Have fun with this one, the best part of Badtz Maru, is his irreverent attitude and wild child personality. :D

Badtz Maru is a SANRIO character and is © of its creators. This crochet pattern is © of Linda Potts (September 2010) and may not be copied, reprinted or added to any website or collection. You may link to this pattern if you like, or print a copy of it for your personal use ONLY. No items made from this pattern may be sold for profit.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Lugia Plushie

Ok y'all. Here he is. Lugia.

I'm sorry that my pics are always crummy, but hey, I'm not a photographer LOL and I'm stuck with really old cameras that don't work unless they feel like it.

This doll ain't for the faint of heart. It's better suited to experienced crocheters with a few serious dolls under their belts!

He's larger than all the other pokemon I've made in the past and a little more difficult as well.

I try to explain everything as well as I can in the pattern instructions, just take it one step at a time and I'll try to help you as much as I can... just post if you have any questions! I've been sick all week, and typing this wasn't easy while feeling so badly, so if you find anything that's wrong, out of place or just plain confusing - that's probably why - and let me know I'll fix it!

Ok guys, here goes.... and good luck! :D

MATERIALS:

WW yarn in white (at least a full skein) medium blue and dark blue

G hook

Fiberfill

Embroidery thread

Small pieces of felt in white and black

Sewing thread to match colors

Yarn Needle

Heavy Gauge wire for wings (optional)

NOTES:

Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a firm consistent stitch that won't allow the stuffing to show through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

Lugia is one of the pokemon whose original 2-D design is not particularly well suited to 'plushie' form. He will be unbalanced. This doll is probably best designed to be suspended with fishing line or other 'invisible' material from a shelf or ceiling as opposed to 'sitting'. You can try weighing down his backside, but the wing structure will still be a nightmare. Some may be able to construct a wire frame for the inside of the wings that will help hold them out, but the sheer weight of the wings is still going to pull heavily on the sides of the body causing it to deform over time.

Typically, I join my rounds when making dolls. If you're more comfortable with using continuous rounds, by all means go ahead, however, in this particular doll you may have some issues with the continuous rounds when working the 'wings'. If at all possible, you should probably join your rounds at least when crocheting the wings in this pattern.

Be prepared to fiddle and fuss a bit with constructing this doll. As I said, it's not an easy one to make, but it DOES work. This pattern isn't well suited for a toy that will be 'played with'... it's best used for display purposes only.

Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc (12)

Rnd 4: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 3 sc in last sc (18)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 6: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in last sc (22)

Rnd 7: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 10 sc (24)

Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Stuff head at this point. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing (this is your only chance to shape the head, so make sure you're happy with it before going on). Continue stuffing neck, body and tail as you progress through the pattern, just make sure that you have the shape you want as you stuff. The neck needs careful attention, as it needs to be stuffed quite firmly (particularly where it joins the head and the body) in order to keep it from 'lolling' later on.

Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)

Rnd 18-26: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 27: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 29: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 31: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 35: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 36: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)

Rnd 38: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 39: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Rnd 40-50: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 51: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)

Rnd 52: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 53: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 54: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 55: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 56: sc in each sc around (30)

Rnd 57: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, dec over last 2 sc (28)

Rnd 58: sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 59: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (26)

Rnd 60: sc in each sc around (26)

Rnd 61: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over last 2 sc (24)

Rnd 62: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 63: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (22)

Rnd 64: sc in each sc around (22)

Rnd 65: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc, dec over last 2 sc (20)

Rnd 66: sc in each sc around (20)

Rnd 67: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (18)

Rnd 68: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 69: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16)

Rnd 70: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 71: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14)

Rnd 72: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 73: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)

Rnd 74: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 75: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)

Rnd 76: sc in each sc around (10)

Rnd 77: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Rnd 78: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 79: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)

Rnd 80: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 81: dec over next 2 sc around (3)

HEAD CREST:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)

Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)

Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)

Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18)

F/O and weave in ends.

You can add a tiny bit of stuffing here if you wish to create more of a rounded crest for the head,

Or you can flatten the crest and pin in place to back of head in position desired (use photos for help with placement)

WINGS (make2):

(If you wish to add a wire frame to the wings, you will need to plan that frame to be introduced before crocheting the fingers. I recommend a wire frame that will go from wing tip to wing tip, through the 'body' of the doll. Otherwise, you won't have the needed strength to hold up these heavier wings. If you're going to be suspending the doll in the air, then the wire frame can be omitted, because you can use the strings as a way to 'position' your wings as if in flight)

Rnd 1: Chain 7. Sc in 2^nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn work and working down the 'unused' side of the foundation chain, sc in the same chain as the last sc of other side, and each remaining chain across. Join to first sc with slip stitch. (12 sc)

Rnd 2-6: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (14)

Rnd 9: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)

Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 11: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (21)

Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (28)

Rnd 19: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (32)

Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 23: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 24-26: sc in each sc around (40)

Do not fasten off.

Begin first 'finger':

Flatten wing 'end' – matching up your sc stitches. You will be working through only one 'side' at a time, but using both sides for each finger.

Rnd 1: sc in next 5 sc. Turn work so that other side is now facing you, sc in next 5 sc of the other side of the wing (what was the last 5 sc of the previous round) and join with slip stitch to first sc of 'finger'

(10 sc)

Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around, joining each round with slip stitch in first sc around (10)

Flatten end of 'finger'. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.

F/O. Weave in ends.

Remaining Fingers:

Attach yarn to first stitch immediately to 'left' of finger just completed. Sc in same stitch as joining and complete same as rounds 1-8 of first finger.

For 'thumb'.

Rnd 1: Chain 6. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn and working down other side of foundation, sc in each chain across. Sl St to first sc of round (10)

Rnd 2-10: sc in each sc around (10)

Flatten end of thumb. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc.

F/O. Weave in ends.

Pin and sew thumb to wing on underside, just below and between first and second finger.

Wings were not stuffed.

Wings are attached to side of body near base of neck as shown. Just pin for now.

LEGS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (27)

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (27)

Rnd 10: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 11: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (12)

Stuff leg moderately. Leave opening. F/O weave in ends.

FOOT (make 2):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (18)

Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Stuff foot moderately, but not too much. Just enough to allow it to hold the shape you desire. Using white thread, create the 'toes' by taking three large whipstitches over the 'ends' of the feet. Go back and do the same with black thread to create the 'toes'.

Sew the foot to end of leg as shown.

BELLY DECORATION:

Using medium blue:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48)

Begin points:

Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8)

Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6)

Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (4)

Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (2)

Row 5: dec over 2 sc (1)

F/O. Weave in end.

Attach yarn to first stitch to immediate left of point just made, sc in same stitch as joining and complete second point same as for first:

Attach yarn to any stitch along side of plate. Sc in same stitch as joining, and evenly around outside – using three sc in the tip of each 'point'. Join with sl st to top of first sc made.

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to body over chest/stomach area.

PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10):

Using darker blue:

Chain 7. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (6)

Rows 2&3: sc in each sc across (6)

F/O and weave in ends.

SPIKES ON TAIL:

Using darker blue:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (5)

Rnd 4: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 5: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (7)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (7)

F/O and stuff very lightly. Pin to tail as shown.

EYE FEATHER (make 2):

Chain 11. Slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip stitch in last chain. Turn work and working back up the other side of the foundation chain: slip stitch in same ch as last slip stitch, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, slip stitch in last.

F/O and weave in ends.

Pin to head as shown in photos.

ASSEMBLY:

All parts need to be pinned to the doll's body before sewing any on. With a doll this large, it's really important you get everything just the way you want it :D

Figuring out the part placement isn't very hard (especially after what you've been through already LOL), just refer to the photos and get everything the way you want ! Then you can sew it all down.

Eyes are cut from pieces of felt in the shapes shown. Mouth is embroidered on last.

Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Umbreon Plushie

Well, after many *many* requests, I finally did an Umbreon. I know this will bring about an onslaught of requests for the other 'Eevee-lutions' and yes I'll get to them all... eventually :D It just depends on my yarn stash, my time and well --- motivation. LOL

As with all the patterns, if you have any problems or if you notice anything wrong in the pattern (I'm prone to typos LOL) let me know and I'll get back to ya as soon as I can :D

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Umbreon

Materials:

WW Yarn black and yellow

G Hook

Fiberfill

Yellow, red, white and black felt scraps

Yarn Needle

BODY:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 13: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (33)

Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (33)

Rnd 16: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 17-20: sc in each sc around (30)

This is a fairly good place to begin stuffing and shaping if you haven't already. Stuff fairly firmly while also shaping the body. Continue stuffing and shaping as you progress.

Rnd 21: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (33)

Rnd 22: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)

Rnd 23-25: sc in each sc around (36)

Rnd 26: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 27: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 28: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 29: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 30: dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish the shaping and weave the tail thread through the final round, pull gently to close up the small opening. Secure and weave in the tail yarn.

HEAD/NECK:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 5-6: sc in each sc around (32)

Rnd 7: sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining 15 sc (33)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (33)

Rnd 9: sc in next 16 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc (35)

Rnd 10: sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 17 sc (36)

Rnd 11: sc in next 14 sc, * dec over next 2 sc *, repeat * * 3 more times, sc in remaining 14 sc (32)

Rnd 12: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 13: repeat rnd 12 (18)

Rnd 14: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (20)

Rnd 15: sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc (22)

Rnd 16: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc (24)

Stuff head firmly while shaping, pay particular attention to the 'nose' area. The head should be pinned to the upper portion of the body (roughly rnds 24-30) with nose area facing forward (the two 'points' of the neck shaping create the cape that create the gentle curve of the neckline. ) See photos to help with placement.

FRONT LEGS:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)

Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)

Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 4 (8)

Begin stuffing at this point, foot and leg should be stuffed moderately firm, without overstuffing. You'll want a little bit of play in the leg to position the feet as you prefer. Continue stuffing as you progress.

Rnd 6-8: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)

Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)

Row 11-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Do not fasten off at this point, continue with shoulder and either right or left leg instructions:

Begin Shoulder:

Right leg:

Row 13: sc in next 6 sc, leave remaining sc unworked, ch 1 and turn (6)

Row 14: sc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn (6)

Row 15: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch 1 and turn (5)

Row 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that the 'inside' of the leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Complete rows 13 through 16 as described for right leg.

F/O.

BACK LEGS:

Rnd 1-5: Same as for front leg

Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc around (8)

Rnd 8: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 10: Repeat rnd 8 (18)

11-12: sc in each sc around (18)

Do not fast off, continue with 'cape/shoulder' for either right or left leg:

Right Leg:

Row 1: Sc 9, leave remaining sc unworked, ch1 and turn (9)

Row 2: sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn (8)

Row 3: sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn (7)

Row 4: sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn(6)

Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch1 and turn (5)

Row 6: sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc, (4)

F/O.

Left Leg:

Turn work so that inside of leg (wrong side of work) is facing you. Continue with shoulder as described for Right Leg.

EARS (make 2):

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round, drop black to back of work but do not fasten off

Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around, change back to black yarn in last sc of round 9, cut yellow leaving a tail of several inches, (carry tail along with work for the first several stitches of the next round to secure it) (12)

Begin stuffing at this point, ears should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 10-12: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Rnd 14: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finished out the shape of the ear.

Tail:

Begin with black:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)

Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)

Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)

Rnd 7-8, sc in each sc around, change to yellow yarn in last sc of round (15)

Begin stuffing at this point, tail should be stuffed fairly firmly. Continue to stuff as you progress.

Rnd 9-11: sc in each sc around, change to black in last sc of round 11, f/o yellow yarn (15)

Rnd 12-14: sc in each sc around (15)

Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)

Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (12)

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (6)

Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (6)

F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finalize the shaping and weave in tail.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I highly recommend that you pin all parts together before you begin to sew them, to make certain all parts are as you like and in the position you prefer.

Head is sewn to body as shown, take your time and pin the head on first, making sure that the neck is adequately stuffed, and that the 'nape' of the neck is positioned so as to create the curve of the neck. (See the pictures to help you position the head)

For the yellow markings, cut 5 oval shapes from yellow felt, then cut out the center of each to make the 'rings'. Pin one of them to the head, between the ears and slightly to the front. The other four are each sewn onto the 'shoulders' of the leg pieces. You can do this before you sew the legs to the body, but I would recommend that you first pin the legs in the positions you want on the body, and then pin the markings to the legs as you prefer them, then unpin the legs and sew on the markings (or you can wait to add the markings after sewing on the legs.)

When sewing the legs on, you will probably want to add a little stuffing under each 'shoulder'. Not much stuffing is generally required here, just enough to give a very slight 'roundness' to the shoulder/hip area – and make a smooth transition from leg to 'body'.

Ears and tail are positioned and sewn on as shown.

Eyes are cut from red and black felt scraps, in shapes as shown. Catch lights are very small pieces of white felt.

Umbreon and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.

This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.