Getting Ready.....

Stay TOASTY warm, friends!

Boy and Girl doll clothes:

handmade by and purchased from

All Dolled Up Doll Clothes by Terrie

The Fireplace plans can be found here:
Fireplace

The Chair plans can be found here:
Upholstered Chair

Pet Store

We've been silent for several months, but it was for a GOOD REASON!!

Besides adding to our General Store, 

we have been working on a PET STORE for the dolls…

 There is a section for fish/amphibians/reptiles: 

(Clear acrylic boxes were used for the 'cages'. 

Sand and rocks were glued inside to add decor, and 

printed pictures were decoupaged on the sides/back to add depth.

The "books", bags of gravel and plants, and the fish food were hand-made.)

 A section for horses:

(The feed bags and animal books were hand-made and other items were collected from local stores.)

And there's even an area dedicated to the local 4-H Youth 

to adopt their goats, rabbits, and chickens for their upcoming projects!

 The cash register area was made from a wooden stool 

with shelves added underneath, a bulletin board in front,  

and wooden signage overhead.

There's a place at the cash register for the birds to play!

 I will be adding more pictures that will include the 

DOG/CAT, BIRD, and SMALL ANIMAL areas.

We are still working on it every week, and will be adding things as time goes on.

If you have any questions, please leave it in the comment section!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18 inch Doll: Upholstered Chair

Upholstered Chair

 Part 1 : "CHAIR FRAME"

SHOPPING LIST: (You may have some of these pieces on-hand as SCRAP)

1 - 1x8@ 9" (for seat of chair)

1 - 1x6@ 7.25" (for back of chair)

2 - 1x3@ 6" (for arms of chair)

4 - knobs (to be used as feet on your chair)

Drill / counter-sink bit

2" screws

2 large clamps (to hold pieces while drilling)

square

tape measure / pencil

level

wood glue

small hand saw

120 Grit sand paper

wood putty to fill holes and knots

***Paint or stain to finish your piece (if desired)  ***I left mine unfinished because I was upholstering.

***************************************

INSTRUCTIONS:

***If you have questions, see sofa posting for pictures on how to build chair:

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2011/11/18-doll-upholstered-sofa-part-1.html

1.  Cut out all of your pieces of wood to the sizes specified in the shopping list.  Sand all cut ends smooth.

2.  On your 1x8 chair seat, measure in 2 inches from each "cut" end, and 1.5" in from each side, and mark with lines at those points.

Now follow steps 3-17 on the Sofa-Build post:
http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2011/11/18-doll-upholstered-sofa-part-1.html

PART 2: Upholstery-Batting

SHOPPING LIST:

**Staple gun 

(I use a Power Shot because it's easier for women: 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_29965-412-5700WAF10_?PL=1&productId=1243797 , but any staple gun would work.)

**3/8" staples

**scissors (to cut batting)

**yard stick or tape measure (to measure batting)

**1 - package of Quilt-Light Batting (45"x60"-crib size, $10 - use a COUPON!) http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/productdetail.jsp?pageName=search&flag=true&PRODID=prd2775

Cut your batting into the following sizes:

1 @ 1.5" x 9" (front base edge)

2 @ 1.5" x 7" (left and right base edges)

1 @ 1.5" x 13" (top seat back edge)

6 @ 1.5" x 6" (left and right arms - ARMS - 3 on each arm for thickness)

4 @ 3" x 6" (for outsides of arms - 2 each arm)

4 @ 1.5" x 2.5" (for ends of arms - 2 each arm)

2 @ 6.5" x 7.5"w (over arms - cut out inside back corner)

4 @ 3" x 5" (inside of each arm)

4 @ 7.5" x 5.5" (for chair back rest padding: 3 on front, 1 on back)

1 @ 7.5" x 14" (over the back - start at base of front, OVER the back to base of back)

INSTRUCTIONS:

***Follow the instructions for "batting" in the sofa build found here:

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2011/11/18-doll-upholstered-sofa-part-2.html

PART 3: "Upholstery"

SHOPPING LIST:

3/8" staples

staple gun

pencil or marker

scissors (to cut fabric)

yardstick or tape measure (to measure fabric)

4 - 2" screws (for attaching the arms to the sofa base)

fabric of your choice***, cut into the following measurements:

SOFA:

1 @ 11" x 15" (chair - over back)

1 @ 3" x 15" (front base edge)

2 @ 3" x 11" (left and right base edges)

2 @ 9" x 11" (over Left and Right arms)

2 @ 5" x 5" (ends of arms)

CUSHIONS:

2 @ 9.5"w x 7"d (cushion top and bottom)
~~~You will notch this fabric on the front edges to create cushion "T". At 1.5" from front edge, cut IN 1.5" from sides:

1 @ 7.75"w x 2" (cushion back)

2 @ 6.25"w x 2" (cushion sides)
2 @ 2"x 2" (Notch out - back)
2 @ 1.5"x 2" (Notch out - ends)
1 @ 9.5" x 2" (cushion front edge)

***I suggest using a HEAVY- WEIGHT fabric (like those intended for upholstery) so that you won't having fraying edges later

INSTRUCTIONS:
***You will follow the steps listed in the Upholstered Sofa entry for tips on how to upholster this chair:
http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2011/11/18-doll-upholstered-sofa-part-3.html

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18 inch Doll: Kitchen Part 3: Stove

Kitchen Part 3: Stove

Part 1: Kitchen Sink/Dishwasher can be found here:

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/sink

Part 2: Kitchen Fridge can be found here:

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2013/03/18-inch-doll-kitchen-part-2-refrigerator.html

SHOPPING LIST:

2 - 1x8 @ 11.5" (sides)

1 - 1x8 @ 12" (top)
1 - 1x8 @ 10-3/8" (bottom shelf)

1 - 1x2 @ 10-3/8" (toe kick)
1 - 1x3 @ 12" (back control panel)

2 - 5/8" square dowels @ 6" (runners for "shelf" inside)

1 - 1/4" MDF @ 11.75"Wide x 10.75"h (stove backing)
1 - 1/4" MDF @ 6.25"x10-3/8" (shelf)
1 - 1x12 @ 8.75" (stove door)
1 - 6.5"x6.5" clear acrylic (stove door insert) ***you will need 4 small screws to attach acrylic
1 - 1.5" wood round (clock) ***you can attach with wood glue/clamp
4 - 2.25" (.25"thick) wood rounds (burners) ***you will need 4 small screws to attach burners
1 - 2.75"x5.25" craft wood (.25" thick) (Grill burner) ***you will need 2 screws
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/wood-slats-756585/
5 - furniture buttons (stove knobs)
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/1/4-birch-furniture-buttons-621367/

1 - magnetic door clasps ***optional (they help the doors to stay closed, so it's a nice touch)g
1 - pairs hinges (cabinet and dishwasher) ***Everbilt Narrow Utility Hinges 1", Home Depot
1 - cabinet pull (dishwasher handle) ***Liberty 3" Pull, Home Depot

T-square

measuring tape

pencil

Drill / 2" wood screws

wood glue

wood clamps

saw

sand paper

painter's tape

wood putty (if you need to fill any holes)

paint to finish (I used GRAY latex for the exterior sides, and SILVER spray paint for the doors, BLACK spray paint for the burners, knobs, grill, clock)


INSTRUCTIONS:
***All of my building pictures were deleted during a large "computer problem". Use the building methods in this link for "basic" building instructions:
http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/pie%20hutch
We are simply making a "shelf" with hinged doors on the front...nothing more complicated than that! :)

1.  Cut out all of your pieces as described and sand them smooth!

2.  Attach your 1x3 control panel to the top edge of your stove top using 2" wood screws.

3.  Attach your sides to your top using 2" screws.

4.  Attach the 1x2 toe kick to the bottom FACE of the stove, and then attach your bottom shelf directly on top of that using 2" wood screws.

5.  Attach your wood dowels to the sides of your stove at 7" (from bottom of stove SIDES to the TOP of each dowel) using wood glue and clamps.  Make sure that they are attached LEVEL and EVEN across from each other. Allow to dry overnight:

6.  Attach the MDF backing to your stove. Fill all screw holes with wood putty and allow to dry overnight. Sand until smooth.

7.  On your 1x12 "door" piece, measure down from the top 2". This will be the TOP of the hole you will cut out. Cut a hole which measures 5.5"W x 5.25"h. Sand all edges until smooth.

8.  Paint the interior and exterior of your stove and door GRAY/SILVER. Spray paint your 4 burners, clock, grill, and knobs BLACK.  Allow to dry overnight.

9.  Attach your acrylic to your stove door INTERIOR by first pre-drilling a hole in each corner of the acrylic INTO the stove door, and then screwing with 4 small screws. Attach all door hardware: hinges, pulls, magnetic closures.

10.  Attach your burners and grill plate with screws, and glue/clamp your clock. Drill small holes and GLUE in your "knobs". Allow to dry.

 You are now finished and READY FOR PLAY!!!!

 Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18 inch Doll: Kitchen Part 2: Refrigerator

Kitchen Part 2: Refrigerator

Part 1: Kitchen Sink/Dishwasher can be found here:

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/sink
Part 3: Kitchen: Stove can be found here:
http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2013/03/18-inch-doll-kitchen-part-3-stove.html

SHOPPING LIST:

2 - 1x8 @ 23" (sides)

3 - 1x8 @ 9" (top, 2 inside shelves)
1 - 1x2 @ 9" (toe kick)

1 - 1x12 @ 7.25" (freezer door)
1 - 1x12 @ 13.5" (fridge door)

4 - 5/8" square dowels @ 7" (runners for "shelves" inside)

1 - 1/4" MDF @ 10.5"x22" (fridge backing)
2 - 1/4" MDF @ 7.25"x9" (fridge shelves)
2 - magnetic door clasps ***optional (they help the doors to stay closed, so it's a nice touch)g
2 - pairs hinges (cabinet and dishwasher) ***Everbilt Narrow Utility Hinges 1", Home Depot
2 - cabinet pull (dishwasher handle) ***Liberty 3" Pull, Home Depot

2 - plastic "organizer baskets" for inside fridge ***optional

T-square

measuring tape

pencil

Drill / 2" wood screws

wood glue

wood clamps

saw

sand paper

painter's tape

wood putty (if you need to fill any holes)

paint to finish (I used WHITE latex for the interior, GRAY latex for the exterior sides, and SILVER spray paint for the doors)

INSTRUCTIONS:

***All of my building pictures were deleted during a large "computer problem". Use the building methods in this link for "basic" building instructions:

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/pie%20hutch

We are simply making a "shelf" with hinged doors on the front...nothing more complicated than that! :)

1.  Cut out all of your pieces as described and sand them smooth!

2.  Attach your sides to your top using 2" screws.

3.  Attach the 1x2 toe kick to the bottom FACE of the fridge, and then attach your bottom shelf directly on top of that using 2" wood screws.

4.  Attach your 1x8 "middle shelf" at 16" (from bottom of fridge SIDES to TOP of new shelf) using 2" wood screws.

5.  Attach your wood dowels to the sides of your fridge at 6.25" and 9.5" (from bottom of fridge SIDES to the TOP of each dowel) using wood glue and clamps.  Make sure that they are attached LEVEL and EVEN across from each other. Allow to dry overnight:

6.  Attach the MDF backing to your fridge. Fill all screw holes with wood putty and allow to dry overnight. Sand until smooth.

7.  Paint the interior of your fridge and doors WHITE, and the exterior of fridge and doors GRAY/SILVER. Allow to dry overnight.

8.  Attach all door hardware: hinges, pulls, magnetic closures. 

You are now finished and READY FOR PLAY!!!!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18 inch Doll: Sewing Table

 

SHOPPING LIST:

1 -  Wooden Box (with drawer) (I purchased mine from Hobby Lobby #745984, $5.99)

     ***It is actually something they call a "doll dresser" and the mirror on top was removed.

     ***I have seen a similar wood box at Joann's: #602129648264, $2.99

4 - 7" Wood spindles for legs (or dowels of your choice) 

     ***I used 8.5" spindles and cut off 1.5", purchased here: http://www.caseyswood.com/shoppingcart/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47&products_id=397

1 - 1/8" thick round plywood circle @ approx. 1-7/8"x4-1/8" (drawer insert) & small scrap (for bag) 

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/6-1/2-plywood-circle-607127/?OrderItemId=13047511

2 - 1/4" square wood dowel cut @ 3.5" (drawer face panel) 

2 - 1/4" square wood dowel cut @ 4" (bag frame)

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/1/4-x-36-hardwood-square-dowel-485243/?OrderItemId=13047437

1 - 5" section of ribbon (drawer insert "pull")

muslin (bag interior lining) (see instructions for measurements)
Fabric of your choice (exterior bag fabric - I used silk) (see instructions for measurements)

flat blade screwdriver OR putty knife (for prying the dresser top loose)

T-square

measuring tape

pencil

Drill (for drilling out holes for spindles) ***or you may glue and clamp, but it's not as stable

wood glue

wood clamps

saw

X-acto knife or razor blade (for cutting through drawer bottom and plywood drawer insert)

sand paper

wood putty (if you need to fill any holes)

hot glue gun (drawer insert "pull")

paint or stain to finish 

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.  Cut out all of your pieces as described and sand them smooth.

2.  If you are using the "doll dresser" from Hobby Lobby, you will need to gently pry off the mirror portion of the dresser using a flat blade screw driver or putty knife. BE CAREFUL.

3.  Remove the drawer from the box, and turn the box UPSIDE DOWN:

4.  GENTLY pry the "top" of the box off (side facing you) using your flat blade screwdriver or putty knife. BE CAREFUL. (I cracked mine because I was going too fast, so I will glue it later in the instructions.)

5.  With the top removed and set aside, turn your drawer UPSIDE DOWN, and line up in front of the box. You will want to mark with a pencil and square just inside the drawer opening, and then transfer those markings over to the box. (Example: my drawer opening measures 1-3/8"x3-3/8".)

6.  Once both pieces are marked, use a saw and X-acto knife to carefully cut away the bottom of the box and the drawer.

7.  On the piece you cut away from the box bottom, gently snap off the front scroll moulding, as shown:

8.  You may discard the box bottom piece, but save the scroll-work piece for a future step.

9.  Your pieces should now look like this:

10.  Gather your pieces together. You should have your box, drawer, scroll-work piece, 4 legs (not shown), drawer insert (not shown) and flat top. You may want to go ahead and stain ALL of your pieces now.

11.  If your box top doesn't crack like mine (***), glue and clamp the box top to the top of your box now. (I actually turned mine over....notice that the bevel edge on the box top was glued on the box upside down in the first picture!)

***Since I cracked my box top, I made sure to use wood glue (wipe off excess!) and clamped until dry. I then sanded well to remove any trace of the previous crack. 

12.  To create the "apron-front" on your drawer, take your 2 pieces of 3.5" long (1/4") dowel and glue together, and then glue to scroll piece and drawer BOTTOM front edge. You will need to clamp them together for good adhesion, wipe off excess glue, let dry well, and then sand any raised edges.

13.  If you are using SPINDLES or ROUND DOWELS for legs, you will need to flip your box over and drill 4 holes for your legs to fit into. I did not glue in my legs because they are snug in the holes. (If you are using SQUARE dowels, you can use wood glue and clamps to attach your dowels into the 4 corners of the box. Let dry and remove clamps.) Add whichever type of legs you choose.

14. BAG: Begin by sewing your muslin liner first so that you get idea of size and construction. Cut out 2 pieces @ 4.25"x5" (front / back), 2 pieces @ 2.5"x5" (sides) and 1 piece @ 1.5"x3.25" (bottom). You will be using 1/2" seams.

15.  Pin your bag right sides together, and then sew along seams leaving raw edges at top. 

16.  Try your bag in the hole of your drawer. Does it fit? (If not, adjust your seams and try fitting again.) Once your bag fits, you can use the above fabric measurements to cut out your OUTSIDE bag. The bags should now look like this: One muslin liner (inside out) and one outside "nice" bag. 

 

17.  Place a small piece of your 1/8" plywood (scrap) in the bottom of your "nice" bag for stiffness and support:

18.  Insert your muslin bag (still turned right side IN) INTO your "nice" outside bag. (You should NOT see ANY seams inside the bags now...the seams should be facing each other between the 2 bags.) Turn down a small seam on each bag toward the inside and pin in place.

19.  Sew around the top of the bag seam where you pinned to secure lining to outside of the bag.

20.  Take your 2 pieces of 4" long 1/4" dowel and hot glue to either side of the bag:

21.  Gently place bag into the drawer, running the bag through the hole and pulling out at the bottom. Allow the 1/4" dowels to act as a "frame" to hold the bag inside the drawer. (Adding a few scraps of fabric to the inside of the bag will help it to fill out nicely!)

22.  Take your drawer insert (you should have already cut this out from your 1/8" plywood circle):

23.   Cut a 5" piece of the ribbon of your choice:

24.  Loop your ribbon, and then hot glue the ribbon ENDS to the BOTTOM of your drawer insert: 

25.  Place your insert into the bottom of your drawer! You can use the ribbon "pull" to remove the drawer insert to access the bag. 

You are now finished and READY FOR PLAY!!!!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.