The Coathanger - Both Sides Now

Dawes Point is the landform from which the southern approaches of the Sydney Harbour Bridge rise. It is named after Lieutenant William Dawes, upon whom the Australian writer based her 2008 book, "The Lieutenant". When the bridge approaches ploughed through this point, it required the demolition of a myriad of terraces upon the "fashionable" Princes Street. Sydney Cove and the Opera House are to the left of this image. Walsh Bay, Barangaroo, and Darling Harbour are to the right of this image.

Milsons Point is the landform from which the northern approachs of the Sydney Harbour Bridge arise. It is named after James Milson, who was a free settler with the savvy to set up a business supplying ferries and watermen who plied the harbour during the 19th century. When the bridge approaches ploughed through this point, the demolition of houses and small business was faithfully recorded by the Reverend Frank Cash, the rector of Christ Church Church of England in adjoining Lavender Bay. To the left of this image is the North Sydney Swimming Pool, and Luna Park. To the right of this image is St Aloysius Boys School, and, out of frame, Admiralty House.

Ferry, across the harbour

Drizzling with rain as the ferry, Borrowdale, eased down upon the approach to the Quay. I had scrambled aboard at Darling Harbour wharf for the short, 20 minute, trip via the Casino, McMahons Point, and finally Milsons Point, before a watchful scamper across the harbour, and into Sydney Cove. No reason for the trip, just because I could.

A hop, skip, and a jump from the Quay

This is not a bad location for a swimming pool, is it? Remember, the bridge opened in 1932. The engineering firm was Dorman Long & Co. and the pool was built upon part of their worksheds.

The pool opened in April 1936, emblazoned with art deco designs and brickwork. When Sydney hosted the 1938 Empire Games, the pool, already an established fixture for swimming competitions became the stage for the Games' swimming and diving programs. Through the years, 86 world records have been set at the pool by such swimming greats as John and Ilsa Konrads, Lorraine Crapp, John Devitt, Shane Gould and Michelle Ford.

Underneath the arches ...

Prior to the harbour bridge coming into use in 1932, the harbour - at the same point - was crossed using a ferry, or punt. There were two ferry routes: one that went from Dawes Point to Blues Point (constructed about 1900); another that went from Bennelong Point to Milsons Point (constructed in 1883). The remains of the Dawes Point ferry wharf can still be seen today. These first three images try to pin it down for you. The historic marker (left) refers to it as "the Dawes Point Horse Ferry Wharf". In the early days of this wharf, there were more horse and carts using the service than motorised vehicles. However, in 1830 there was a ferry called "The Experiment" which was a paddlewheeler, the motive power for which was a capstan turned by four horses walking round and round on deck. I am conflicted over which story gave rise to the name!

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There are some wonderful photographs taken by Harold Cazneaux (1878-1953) of the old ferries to and from these wharves. He adored the soft harbour light in the early morning, and some of his best images combine the two. Here is his 1908 "Ticket Collector, Horse Punt", sourced from the Art Gallery, New South Wales (AG-NSW). The specific wharf is not detailed.

Here is another of Cazneaux's ferry images: "The Old Horse Punt", c. 1920. This time on the water. I am not able to read the name of the punt, but it is loaded with horses and carts. This could be the "Kooroongaba", or the "Benelon", or the "Barrangaroo", or the "Warrane", or the "Kamilaroi". Wonderful old names. This image sourced from the digital collection o the National Library of Australia (NLA).

This final image comes from "Philip Geeves presents Cazneaux's Sydney 1904-1934", and depicts the old horse ferry at Milson's Point, which ran to and from Bennelong Point. Apparently, Cazneaux confessed that he haunted the Milsons Point terminus: "The old pre-bridge ferry landing always attracted me and my 'magic box'. It was the soft morning light that prompted the taking of this picture, which I like to think of as one of my best."