Marfy 1128 - Autumn Cocktail Dress - Completed

This latest iteration of Marfy 1128 turned out really well, I think.  This is the finished look.  It's hard to catch the sparklieness of the actual dress without having it be almost impossible to actually see.  I got to wear it this past weekend to a fundraising dinner, and I felt very appropriately dressed.

 The hem is my favorite part.  I love the way it drapes and catches itself up, especially in the back.  I changed the back neckline from a very low square back to a higher scoop, which is still fairly low. 

I have quite a few inner construction photos for this.  The blog photos are smaller than those you can see if you click here.  As  I think I said previously, I underlined this with a fairly heavy satin lining, almost something you would use for a coat lining.  I turned the satin side toward the body, and extended it about 5" longer than the dress hem edge. 










 You can see how I turned the hem up to the outside on the finished garment photos, but here is the inside of the hem, which comes out very nicely since all the raw edges are inside the rolled part on the outside of the dress.

The original pattern has front horizontal and vertical darts, and gathering at the neckline under a chiffon collar.  I stitched the horizontal darts, but used the other ease to drape from the waist up to the neckline.  You can see close ups of the neckline and waist draping here.

The facing you can see on the neckline is a folded bias strip of the lining fabric.  The neckline stands out in places, as it is supposed to, and the bias band helps it to stay close to the body in any case.

 These two photos show the inside front of the body of the dress with the stitched waist tucks.

In the close up you can also see the stitching which tacks the bow in place.

 This is the slight flange edge of the sleeve, almost just a facing which peeks out.  It's widest at the top, narrowing to nothing at the side seam. 

You can see inside that it is also a bias strip, but of the fashion fabric.

Finally, you can see that the extra-long invisible zipper opens the entire length of the side seam.  I really have learned that this is not too long a zipper for a dress like this.  It makes it so much easier to put on, and without spoiling one's hair or makeup.

Autumn Cocktail Dress

I'm excited about this dress. It's been awhile since sewing has been this much fun, and I'm enjoying it. I'm going to a Friends of Opera Gala fundraiser this Sunday, and I thought I wanted something new to wear.

I'm using a TNT pattern, Marfy 1128. It's a fairly basic sheath dress, but with the gathered neckline under the chiffon collar, it give you a lot of leeway to manipulate the neckline if you don't want the collar.

One thing I have learned with this pattern is to use a much longer zipper than I originally thought necessary. This makes it so much easier to get into. I bought a bag of invisible zippers last time I was in LA with Kathi Rank shopping the Fashion District, and so I happened to have a 34" invisible zipper in an acceptable color (dark green), which goes in the left side seam from the armscye to the hem. I probably would not have purchased this long a zipper on purpose for this, but it's great, actually. Apparently the longer, the better.

I found the fabric at Hancock, and it really spoke to me. It's a very thin, non-wonderful brocade, but I love the colors and the look. This actually shows the wrong side while it's being cut out.

I'm underlining with a thicker satin lining fabric. Originally I thought I would do something along the lines of a car-wash skirt, as they are so current, and finally wearable now that they're not being shown only with absolutely nothing underneath them. However, I like what I have come up with even better. I extended the underlining about 5" below the brocade and then turned it to the outside and asymmetrically attached it. Here's a photo of it on the dressform with the hem pinned. I am pinning a draped effect from the left waist to the right shoulder and I think the bow will be staying, but you never know.

Pleather Costume Dress & Garter Belt

All photos can be seen larger here.


I needed a costume for a party in August, and decided this homage to Emma Peel of the original Avengers would be fun.  I'm not sure Mrs. Peel ever wore anything exactly like this, but surely something very similar in spirit.  After all, it was the Mod 1960's.

This dress is made from Pleather from JoAnn's.
I used a Marfy sheath pattern (#1128) as my starting point, with some changes that are not really too drastic design-wise, although the look is quite different from the original here and here.
I've made this dress several times, and it's a very versatile pattern.  This iteration has been shortened, the neck scooped, the back neckline changed to a very deep Vee, and the side zipper exchanged for a below-the-waist CB separating sport zipper. 

You can see the back below.  For ease of fitting, etc., and since it's only a costume, I decided that leaving the Vee open to the top of the zipper and exposing the back strap of my bra would not be a problem.  It would be easy enough to put a modesty strip or panel across with snaps, and if I wear it again, I may do so.

 

The pleather was very easy to sew, but the fact that pins make permanent holes made it difficult to fit quickly.  Tape didn't hold well to try things, and I ended up using clothespins at times.  I did use some pins where I was going to be sewing anyway.  All edges except the hem are turned and stitched with either a straight stitch or a 3-step zigzag.  You can see both in the photo at left, which shows the ties on the front shoulder 'straps'.  They control excess fullness in the neckline.

The original design has a front jewel neckline with gathers in lieu of some of the dart shaping, and I should have rotated that fullness out before cutting.  This did the trick though, and is kind of cute anyway.

To the right is the back of the dress laid out on the ironing board.  You can see the zipper at CB.  The zipper zips up from the bottom.

You can see the bottom of the zipper below and the double row topstitched hem from both the inside and outside of the garment.  The hem was turned up and stitched along the zipper while the zipper was inserted.

I used a large-toothed sport zipper for this garment, and I think it fits well with the design and the fabric.

To the right you can see the CF waistline from the inside and outside of the dress.  I took a tuck at the waistline between the front vertical darts.  There is no give in pleather, and there was just too much fullness there.

I put elastic inside to gather it up across the grain a little as well.  This seemed to help the fit quite a bit, and it was all hidden by the sash belt.

On to the matching garter belt.  Every 1960's heroine needs a garter belt.  After all, it was before pantyhose made their appearance.  Here it is closed and open.

The pleather made it very quick and easy to sew.  Sturdiness, no raveling and no stretch meant no reinforcement or lining needed.  This sped up the process a lot.  I used purchased garters which came with the elastic attached, and put loops with 2 attachment points on the inside.

The seams were stitched, then each seam allowance was topstitched down.  This might have been overkill, but I wanted it to last, and to be very flat against the skin.  I used the triple zigzag on the edges, again to make sure the edges were very flat.  I had thought it would be fun to add some embroidery or some kind of embellishment to this, but I ran out of time. 





I will leave you with 2 last dress photos.  The side/back view, and the 'fun' shot.  Many of you know that my sister takes all my best photos, and we were getting silly at this point.

Marfy #1128 Roses & Caramel Finished

Photo Link (The link will take you to the first photo in the group, then you can click through on Next to see all of them, larger if you'd like.)

I finished the Roses & Caramel dress last night, and I have to say, I'm very pleased with it, and especially with the fit. I've never had any luck with this style of dress, until this pattern, and it's fun to have one actually fit me, and my shape. I do begin to think that perhaps this style is not my most flattering though, as it clearly reveals my very short-waisted figure, rather than disguising it a little bit, as I usually try to do. I do have one excuse though. I still am not able to stand up completely straight, and so I'm bent over at the waist enough that it shortens that area even more than usual. That's my story anyway. I can't wait until I can really stretch again.


Thank you Mardel, for the fantastic fabric! I really love it.


I used Roberta Carr's instructions for Bias Facings on this dress, and since the matelassé is fairly thick, I used a silk crepe de chine for the bias strips. I thought the colors went together fairly well, and it was scrap I had left from the contrast for my first Marfy suit, so that was fun too. Carr says that this kind of facing is very soft, and gives very little support. I would agree, but in this case, the fabric has plenty of body, it seemed like a good choice, and I have to say I like the finished effect. It's a lot of hand sewing, but I like handwork, and it didn't really take too long. Here's a shot of the facing inside the front neckline, and a close-up.




You turn your edge over, hand baste near the fold, then measure the edge, and attach a same size bias strip near the fold, RSU, with the edge turned under. Then press and shape carefully so the other edge fits, and stitch it, turning the edge under. Remove your basting, and you're done. Very soft and flexible, and very comfortable against the body.

I had to include a photo of my invisible zipper. You can see the front dart on the left.


And of course, most important of all, The Shoes.

It's going to be a very hot day tomorrow (93, with high humidity) and I don't know if the wedding is in an air conditioned church, so a cotton dress will be perfect. Now to go wrap the gift.

I'm really pleased with how this dress turned out, and this is the kind of dress I could imagine wearing all day with perfect comfort, which is always a plus. I can hardly wait to do another one, and summer is moving right along, so I'd better hurry,or it will be back to sleeves, which I guess would be okay anyway.

I want to thank everyone for the very kind hair comments. I'm really thrilled with the new 'do', and it's nice to know you like it too.

Marfy Dress Photos

Marfy 1128

Here is the finished dress from Marfy #1128. It was a little hard to photograph because the matelassé is such a dark brown. I'm actually very pleased with this, and although I doubt I'd make another like it, it was quite fun to do, and it really took me in a new direction. I love the chiffon on this dress.

The back view is below. It's about 1" higher in the back than the original design, as I raised the whole thing at the shoulders. I recut the front neckline to the original depth, but I left the back, as I felt a lower back would do nothing for me, and I think this gives the same effect, with less chance of problems.


Back View

Here's a close up of the buttons I used, and you can see a couple more construction-related photos here.



Button, Cuff & Placket

Marfy Dress Today; Photos Tomorrow

This afternoon I finished the Marfy dress, #1128, that I've been working on for a while. No photos yet, as it was too dark by the time I was done. It really turned out quite well, and I'm pleased with it, but I must say, I'm not sure just how soon the occasion will arise to wear it. When it does though, I'll be ready.

I was very worried that I might not like the look of the printed chiffon with the matelassé, but I think it's fine. The design calls for fancy buttons, and even says "jeweled" buttons, but I looked at what was in my button stash, and it turns out that one of my favorites from the collection I was given at Sewing Guild a couple weeks ago is the perfect thing for this. They're the brown domed buttons with brass dots. They're quite large, and "important" looking. There is one at each end of the chiffon scarf/collar, and one on each cuff. The cuffs close with snaps, as I didn't want such large buttonholes in them. Here's the pattern illustration.


Marfy#1128


On the knitting front, I decided how to adjust the stitch pattern for the back of the cabled Bendigo cardigan I'm knitting, so I'm ready to knit during the Super Bowl, if necessary, and I'm sure it will be. The original pattern had a panel of plain reverse stockinette in the center of the back, with a pattern panel on each side, but I wanted something with patterning all the way across, so I needed to adjust the panel placement slightly to get everything to work out right. I'm done with both fronts now, and I'm pleased and also slightly surprised at how quickly it seems to be going.

Chiffon Sleeves

Chiffon Sleeve Seam

I've been working on my Marfy dress again with the chiffon sleeves and collar. I got brave and cut out the chiffon, and have been working with it. I didn't do a french seam, just a regular seam, and then turned both seam allowances to one side, but didn't make them completely flat, and stitched through them with a hand whipstitch. I then trimmed very closely. The seam allowance is now tiny, and very flexible. I also did the edges of the sleeve placket with a hand-rolled edge, as you would do a scarf. I used a fine silk thread for both of these operations. It's a #100, rather than a #50, which is regular machine stitching weight. I've begun attaching the matelassé cuffs and will then attach the sleeves to the dress. Then it will be on to the collar.

Moving Along

I finally broke down and ordered several things from FabricMart the other day. They have some really gorgeous, unusual things right now. I hope I'm going to get to them quickly after they come, as well. In hopes that action will occur, I worked a little while tonight on several things.

I got out a Marfy jacket pattern to see if I had enough of a wide wale knit to make it up, and the answer is no. Instead, I'm seriously considering using a cotton with metallic designs that I got last year. I washed a swatch to see if it was going to shrink or otherwise go weird, and it seems to be very stable. I thought I'd try washing a swatch of my Armani Perfume fabric as well, and was pleased to find that it too is very stable, and seemingly unaffected by washing. A friend guessed that it had some acetate in it, and it appears that it doesn't, which is just fine.

I worked a bit on the matelassé/chiffon Marfy dress I've been inching along on, and I feel like I'm making progress. I keep thinking I need armscye facings, and I become somewhat stymied. Then I realize it has sleeves, for heaven's sake! I cut the neckline lower this evening, compensating for what I took out at the shoulder, and it improves it no end. I begin to think I may actually get it done in fairly decent time.

I've been looking at the Couture shows, and am getting a little excited by them. There are some really interesting things. The Dior show is absolutely outstanding this season, but Valentino appeals to me as well, especially from a sewing point of view, just because of his beautiful fabrics and techniques. Every detail of his garments is obviously thought out very carefully, and the care taken certainly shows.

Hip volume really is coming to the fore, after a few seasons of foreshadowing, and it begins to look quite good. There are some very nice tunics that flare at the hip, and while I don't know that I'd care for them on me, they do look good on the runway.

A Dressy Dress

Well, I can't remember the last time I made a really dressy dress. I just don't wear them very much. I have a tendency to wear separates, or more casual things. I just fell in love with this Marfy pattern (#1128) though, and decided that I had to try it in the shorter length. I think I can get some good out of it during the holiday season this year.

From Patterns

I altered the pattern yesterday, doing a FBA and lengthening the dress 2". The sleeve length looks as if it may be fine, although I'll check them again with the dress on before I cut out the chiffon, which I don't have yet anyway. I'm using a chocolate poly matelasse that's really pretty nice. I cut it out and basted it all together (except the sleeves) tonight and tried it on. I realized that I forgot to fold out some of the length above the bust, but with this design, I can rather easily take a much deeper shoulder seam, and I'm not sure I'll even need to deepen the armscyes. I'll see. It's amazing how much difference it makes in the fit. Suddenly everything just slides right into place. Why I couldn't remember to do it first, I don't know, but perhaps I need to put up a poster with a list of the Required Alterations so that I don't have to rely on my memory. I was so worried about ruining the shaping of the pattern while doing the FBA that I think I just heaved a sigh of relief when it was done, seemingly without problems, and promptly forgot everything else I would normally do.

I am thinking of a plaid printed silk chiffon for the collar and sleeves.

From Fabric

I think with the plain, very dark brown for the dress itself, even with the matelasse texture, this might be a nice contrast.

It's so cold here now, 10 degrees as I write, that I had to make myself try on the dress, as it's not a warm dress. That may be something against it for this season. Well, either way, it will be done and ready to go when I want it.