Romanian Experience

Our tour to Romania was great, after such a long delay between initial walk through and our first trip [thank you covid] I was a touch nervous about how it would all go.

Well fantastic is the word I would use.

We received such a warm welcome and it is just so beautiful you feel like you are in an enchanted story.

Roses, deep vibrant red roses and poppies bloom everywhere.

Meet Anca, we have been chatting via the ethers for ages- it was such a delight to meet up, hang out, take a road trip to search up a few leads before the tour AND plan for her to work with us in the future.

The shade of green of European forests and trees is so vivid to Australian eyes used to the olive tones of Australia,  I left me wanting to just gaze at the trees. I am sure the Japanese have a name for soaking up the peace of the forest. Translates to forest bathing? Perhaps I just am drunk on green and prone to flights of fantasy.

Schiller Square in Sibiu. Sibiu is famous for its Eyes- they watch you everywhere.... the Old Town is quite small and gorgeous to wander, it feels like every corner brings up something new and charming.

Linden or European Lime Trees were in blossom everywhere- such a sweet perfume to enhance our travels. Look at that photo- I took it and it looks magical to my eye. Locals were collecting the flowers to make tea.

The honey produced from these flowers is the most prized one in Romania.

2019 was my walk through, I met a social group in Bucharest who met weekly to stitch Romanian blouses. What I didn't know about was the effort going into getting the Romanian Blouse inscribed on the World Heritage List.

The success of that in 2022 has really buoyed local enthusiasm. 

I saw many more women in traditional blouses than last time. Many younger people are stitching themselves one.

We spent time sitting in a garden, working on a sample. Trying it yourself , really builds your appreciation of the time and effort that goes into that embroidery.

Anca, our teacher was patients and encouraging- dressed in one outfit from her collection of traditional costumes gave a great chance to look closely and take photos when we were distracted from stitching- haha. It was a fun day.

Look at the fine embroidery on her sleeves!

Driving along a country road we met two delightful girls heading to a school event. Our driver Sorin, asked if they world mind if we flocked around them to admire the outfits.

They were happy and all smiles to let us photograph them and they told us they had stitched everything themselves,  Grandma had helped with direction but it was all their work.  Wonderful. 

So many thing we came across that felt magical.

Check out this Monastery that Anca and I came across on our Road Trip- perfect for a lunch break and sketch for our Travel Sketching Romania Tour with Susan Yeates next year.

 

I must admit it is not hard to find a beautiful painted Romanian Orthodox Church, but this one was quite a beauty. Loved the wild devils near the front door.

Other treats were fairy tale type castles

On our road trip we met Christine, her business is the last business raising silk worms and producing silk veils and blouses in Romania.

 We turned up unannounced and she kindly showed us everything and then was a wonderful host to my group. Special.

Have you ever read "The Darling Buds of May" by HE Bates- all about bucolic bliss.... summertime in Romania has that type of feel.

We joined the Shepherds in Maramures for dinner one evening- I can't imagine anything more delightful.

the sun was golden, the fields green, only men milk so we watched. 

then we sat under a plum tree and feasted. Freshly made cheese, bread, salad followed by a Shepherd's stew, local wine and home made afinata- alcohol flavoured with mountain picked blueberries.

Glorious!

I am rambling here, this is just a small story about a place I truly look forward to exploring further.

I have a few new inclusions for next year and am just putting the finishing touches of Romanian Ramble 2025.

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I must admit COVID really knocked me around, I wondered if I would lead tours again and I am so glad I persisted. This year and last year has been fantastic.

So many places to experience, people to meet, creative ideas to explore.

There are so many great museums in Romania

I do love these two- perhaps little ever changes? 

They feel so modern and fresh and yet have been sitting around since 5000 to 4600 BC

Romania is a land rich in museums, now that might lead you to surmise traditional culture is becoming all dusty and tucked away in them.

Not happening in Romania, the textile culture is vibrant and growing based on traditional pieces.

There are various museum, some have huge collections of built- structures houses and barns and such displayed like a village.

Apparently they are traditional houses relocated to the museum and rebuilt by hands local to their home area. 

You could just imagine the owners have just stepped out for the day.

Many are gorgeous and quaint but I am sure a challenge to live in, in the modern world.  Looked after in a museum the building survives even if it doesn't still burn a home fire. 

These house are full of the furniture and textiles that were local to their areas.

Romania has long snowy winters, time spent inside lead to the development of a rich material culture. Delicious textiles, intricately painted surfaces and fine wood work.

Other museums have great collections of local costumes. Displayed on models, you can't touch but you can carefully get up close enough to see the gorgeous handwork. Swoon.

My hardest task was deciding which locations we would visit.... so much to love, so little time basically.

Here are just a few highlights of many, haha

Cluj-Napoca Ethnographic Museum might just be my favourite- it was hard to tell I almost swooned from overload. You can only sigh and so "Ohhhh" so many times before you become lightheaded.

You were not allowed to touch but you could get up very close to see the details- wonderful recourse of stitch.

These are all regional variations of Traditional Costume, there was also some stunning Hungarian Written Thread work - A large part of Transylvania, now Romania was once Hungary and there are a lot of cultural traditions still here.

Metallic inserts amongst silk stitch

Angel shirt? If I had had my wits about me I could have used Google Translate to read the info sheet- Oh well, next time.

How to assemble a blouse

The detail

The Apron

and then there was more!

Samples of weaving and garments found at Barsana Monastery.

Barsana Monastery dates back to 1390, the oldest church here was built in 1711 and until recently was the tallest wooden church in the world.

And

Found second hand at a local market- I have the vendors number and she is happy to do a private showing for us.- Dangerous, I'd say :)

There has been big news since I was last in Romania

from UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage site

Inscribed in 2022 (17.COM) on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity

© Video Art Studio, 2021/Ghenadie Popescu 2020

The art of the traditional blouse with embroidery on the shoulder (called altiță) is an essential part of Romanian and Moldovan folk dress for men and women. It juxtaposes a simple cut with rich and colourful ornamentations that are stitched using complex sewing techniques. The blouses are white and made of natural fibres (flax, cotton, hemp or floss silk), and the complex stitch combines horizontal, vertical and diagonal seams that result in a specific pattern and texture. The styles and techniques vary according to the region and the wearer’s age, as well as to the skills of the women who create the blouses. The motifs and ornamentation are also varied: from geometric and stylised registers to organic shapes, and from sombre to vivid colours. Traditional blouses with altiță are made entirely by hand, and recent attempts to mechanize certain steps and to simplify the ornamentation and techniques constitute deviations from tradition. The craftsmanship is exclusively female and generally passed on within families, although some organizations, museums and schools organize camps and courses. Today, interest in creating these blouses is steadily increasing, with the practice viewed as a means of relaxation and of affirming one’s national identity and maintaining visible ties to the past.

Download© Valeru Ciurea, 2018

A lot of effort and research would have gone into this submission over many years.

Keeping an eye on the internet as I do, I have found a lot more images and chats of stitching traditional blouses, classes to make blouses, meetings and societies celebrating the blouse than were apparent  5 years ago when I started closely researching Romania.

I like this article that describes the value of the blouse to Intangible Heritage- it was not just an article of clothing but a history passed through women's hands, it was time spent sitting in groups to stitch so much more than just a garment.

To gain a UNESCO Listing you don't have to just prove the value of the tangible or intangible item you also have to have a plan for how you will look after it.

I know in Ahmedabad to get The Old City on the register took years of meetings and workshops to work with the residents of the Old City to build pride in their old homes: education and funds in how you might improve the comfort of your home whilst retaining its valuable historical aspects. 

so many levels of planning from the grassroots up to erudite documentation and applications

You need to have a community on side and VERY supportive. This is regularly inspected by the UNESCO committees to see if is being upheld and true.

How do you protect something as intangible as a blouse? the true one must be handstitched?

Either you spend a lot of time to make your own or you spend a lot of money to buy a handstitched blouse.

There would be 'clever' people who would like to make them by machine and sell at a lower price point- can you see where this might spiral out of control? It could become a nightmare to protect the integrity of the true Romanian Blouse. This article talks of some of the problems they now face.

And there was recently a wonderful exhibition - I think the name in translation is "I sew for a Cause" 

The Romanian Blouse and traditions of stitch were used as a canvas to express concerns about valuing the environment and traditions. My friendly blouse teacher Anca kindly sent me these photos.

So beautiful.

I look forward to learning and seeing so much more next trip 😄

Pondering Vlad

 

Vlad

Vlad was mentioned a few times when I was in Romania- it was Vlad III they meant- ruler of Wallachia off and on between 1448 &1477. Wallachia is forerunner to modern Romania.

Vlad the person who could boast fighting off the Ottoman Empire for a time.

Vlad, was rather hard on those he did not like, and could certainly hold a grudge against the gentry who did not support him.

 

I was told by a guide in Bucharest that apparently, he made Romania so safe you could leave a gold coin at the water fountain and come back later. No one would steal it, they would be caught and they would never get the chance to do the wrong thing again.

For those who had wronged Vlad, any invading Ottomans he could catch and anyone breaking his laws- punishment was quick and decisive.

Impale them on stakes lining the streets coming into town.

Really.

Can you imagine what it must have been like arriving? The groans of agony as gravity slowly pulled your body down onto the stake... the smell from those who had been there for some time?

This was the Time of The War of The Roses in England... all across Europe and most of the world, kingdoms would attack kingdoms, constant infighting to catch thrones....

It was common behaviour, but Vlad excelled at it and gained a reputation far and wide.

 

His fame was widely talked about through the German and Russian regions, through them his story lived on. Back in Wallachia, his kingdom and Transylvania he was largely forgotten for centuries.

The region he is from was home to the Dacians- strong independent warrior clans- the Roman Empire after much trouble bought them to heel but always worried when they would rebel and bite again.... seems like a theme.

His name had its origin in the nickname of his father, Vlad Dracul ("Vlad the Dragon" in medieval Romanian), who received it after he became a member of the Order of the Dragon- Knights promised to fight off the Ottoman Empire and preserve Christianity.

Vlad III is known as Vlad Tepes (or Vlad the Impaler) in Romanian historiography.

Stories about Vlad's brutal acts began circulating during his lifetime,  1464 The Pope included the tales in his Commentaries.

A poem, called "Story of a Despot Called Dracula, Voievod [Prince] of Wallachia", was performed at the court of Frederick III, Holy Roman Emperor in Wiener Neustadt during the winter of 1463.

No social media in those days yet his reputation was travelling like wildfire.

They say you need to be consistent and have a 'thing' to build your brand- he found his niche.

1492 … Turkish messengers came to [Vlad] to pay respects, but refused to take off their turbans, according to their ancient custom, whereupon he strengthened their custom by nailing their turbans to their heads with three spikes, so that they could not take them off.

— Antonio Bonfini: Historia Pannonica

For centuries the horror stories circulated about Vlad outside his homeland  and then in 

then in the 1800's the tide started to turn 

Deleanu's Țiganiada (Gypsy Epic) (which was published only in 1875) presented Vlad as a hero fighting against the boyars  local rulers], Ottomans, strigoi (or vampires), and other evil spirits at the head of an army of gypsies and angels

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Strigoi in Romanian mythology are troubled spirits that are said to have risen from the grave. They are attributed with the abilities to transform into an animal, become invisible, and to gain vitality from the blood of their victims. 

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One of the greatest Romanian poets, Mihai Eminescu, dedicated a historic ballad, The Third Letter, to the valiant princes of Wallachia, including Vlad. 

He urges Vlad to return from the grave and to annihilate the enemies of the Romanian nation:

You must come, O dread Impaler, confound them to your care.
Split them in two partitions, here the fools, the rascals there;
Shove them into two enclosures from the broad daylight enisle 'em,
Then set fire to the prison and the lunatic asylum.

— Mihai Eminescu: The Third Letter

Since the middle of the 19th century, Romanian historians have treated Vlad as one of the greatest Romanian rulers, emphasizing his fight for the independence of the Romanian lands.

 

Bram Stoker's Dracula, which was published in 1897, was the first book to make a connection between Dracula and vampirism, although research based on Stoker's paper suggests he knew little of Vlad and was just using names and bits and pieces to create a story.

 

According to an opinion poll conducted in 1999, 4.1% of the participants chose Vlad the Impaler as one of "the most important historical personalities who have influenced the destiny of the Romanians for the better"

 

Ceausescu making national hero....

Duncan Light in “DraculaBeats the Communists” talks of the Bram Stoker Myth being a mixed hero for the communists, certainly went against the party line but it could bring tourists and their dollars to a country in need of funds. Interesting article developing that theme.

Here is a link to a University Paper he published on the same theme

Professor Radu Florescu was a Romanian academic who held the position of Emeritus Professor of History at Boston College has written extensively on the Romanian history, he best known work, though, is In Search of Dracula (1972).

Stokers’ Dracula had enough real places in it, he posited that it must be based on a real person and Vlad Tepes fitted the position the best. He looked to find links between the fictional story and an historic person.

 

Dracula has brought a lot of tourists to Romania, apparently, yet in Romania I did not feel like the locals were that interested in Stoker’s Dracula.

The Castle often associated with the novel Bram Castle has very little to do with Vlad.

The country and its history are far more impressive than a fictional character imagined by someone from far away. In my opinion.

Stories of the feisty Dacians- the thorn in the Roman Empires’ behind.

Vlads Dad and Tepes fighting off the Ottoman Empire…

 

Romanian is in a crucial position between East and Europe, it is also a rich country with good farmlands, mineral wealth and the largest Original untouched forests of Europe.

There were certainly scary fairy tales associated with the deep forests and lots of characters to scare the kids into behaving.

 

Books that develop the Vampire theme

Dracula is a novel by Bram Stoker, published in 1897 and the movie staring Bela Lugosi in 1931 added to the myth

The Historian by Elizabeth Kostova is a great read…. The plot draws you into the search for the facts behind the Dracula myth

The House of The Vampire by George Sylvester Viereck is surprisingly modern in its writing and plot. It was published in 1907 and is notable as one of the first psychic vampire stories, as well as the first known gay (actually, bisexual) vampire story. Not a bad read either.

I’ve been delving deep into Vlad/Dracula/ Vampire stories to try and get a picture.

In Romania the Dracula side of it all seemed to not be a thing- except if you went to Bram Castle that we foreigners associate with the book. A book that Vlad seems to have little or no connection to.

 

Vlad Tepes though seemed to get good press as the guy who fought against terrible odds for Romanian independence.

That is a lot more pertinent to the modern country- Independence from Oppressors Romania was nearly the last of the Eastern European communist governments to fall; its fall was also the most violent up to that time. I had many conversations with Romanians who vigorously spoke out against the corruption in their country at government level and that if they speak up loudly enough things will change. During my visit a major political figure was pulled up on corruption charges and many were pleased. I look forward to hearing the next instalment in these conversations.

Many thanks to Wikipedia for bouncing me around and shedding light on my questions. I have donated to their continued presence- love me a good encyclopaedia. 😁

Travel Journals

 We're working in collaboration with Jo Beal on a Travel Journaling Tour in Vietnam...

It got me thinking this morning of all the great travel journals I have seen over the years on my trips and wondering about themes and ideas people might follow in a Vietnam based journal and trip.

I stitch, so tend to pick up and record ideas this way..... although a journal is always handy to keep ideas percolating and ready for the needle.

Journal in progress based around Moorish Delights of Andalusia and Morocco Travels

Romanian Embroidery and bead work

a Travel Scroll full of Vietnamese Textiles and observations

Maps are easy to download from the internet the size needed and add to your journal

All the rest are images by Jo Beal or places we will wander with her in Vietnam

Travel Journals.
A great way to record your journey
A great way to take time and see into this new place you are visiting.
It is true we are all same/ same, but it is the little differences that make the difference 😀.
Viva la difference!

What attracts your eye the most?
Scenery
People
Food
Crafts....
If it all seems too much, a theme to follow helps focus.

Perhaps a page will contain a selection of small sketches that capture your day....
Perhaps a map to plot your day....

There are so many creative ways to work your journal.
Jo Beal @jobeal4, your tutor will be there to help you develop your creative Travel Journal, beautiful Vietnam, your muse.

Take a wander with us in March 2024

Peace