Showing posts with label F W 2012. Show all posts
Showing posts with label F W 2012. Show all posts


Vika!

Ona nije vaša tipična Ruskinja.

U nekom intervjuu pročitala sam da je Vika Gazinskaya od najranijeg detinjstva volela da se igra pravljenja odeće. Sva sreća pa nikada nije odrasla. Kao devojčica koja isprobava mamine cipele i bakine ešarpe, igra se sa njima, i onako, potpuno detinje nevino i neopterećeno istorijom mode i trendovima - stvara te iste trendove! Dete, koje uzima neki stari modni magazin, vidi u njemu Yves Saint Laurent reklamu, žvrlja preko nje, pored nje, a onda nastavlja svoju priču na praznom papiru. Eto, to vam je Vika.

Znate da mi se modna Rusija i nije nešto svidela, ali, kao što rekoh, Vika definitivno nije tipična Ruskinja. Studirala je u Rusiji, ali je shvatila da što pre mora u epicentar modnog sveta - Pariz. Rečeno, učinjeno. Vika Gazinskaya pokorila je blogosferu - posle svakog fashion weeka, njene maštovite kombinacije prepričavaju se danima. Volim je. Volim je što modu (a i sebe) ne shvata preozbiljno, već svemu dodaje tu neophodnu dozu humora i igre. Njoj sigurno nećete naći neki prepoznatljiv elemenat ili, još gore, komad garderobe, pre ćete videti tu tananu Vika nit u načinu na koji ona razmišlja, na koji pristupa modi. Kao da je svaki outfit prilika za novu ulogu, za novu igru!

Kad porastem, biću Vika!

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She's not your typical Russian girl.

I remember reading one interview where Vika Gazinskaya claims that she loved playing making clothes since she was a little child. Luckily enough, she never grew up. Just like a child, trying on mommy's shoes and grandma's scarves, playing with them without any regard to history of fashion  or trends - instead of following them, she's the one who sets them! Imagine a child who takes an old fashion magazine, finds a page with Yves Saint Laurent commercial, draws over it, by it, and then seamlessly continues her line of thoughts on an empty paper. That's Vika, you know.

You all remember that I wasn't really head over heels for Russian vision of fashion, but, as I've said earlier - Vika is definitely not your typical Russian girl. Although a Moscow fashion graduate, she realized the importance of being in the (epi)centre of fashion - Paris! Easily said, then easily done - she became a true blogosphere belle du jour. After each fashion week her outfits are meticulously analyzed and talked over. I love her. I love her for not taking fashion (or herself) too seriously, and instead adding so much needed dash of humor and playfulness to everything she does or wears. It's not like you can tell Vika style by some piece of clothing she often wears, it's more complex than that. That thin thread that screams Vika would be her line of thought, her approach to fashion. As if each and every outfit is a chance for a new role, for a new play!

When I grow up, I want to be Vika!


Mnogi su je nazvali modnim jeretikom kada je odlučila da svoju Fall 2012 kolekciju, pre zvanične premijere na nedavno održanom moskovskom fashion weeku, prošeta po ovom pariskom. I to ne na bilo kome, već na sebi i svojoj BFFici, Miri Dumi. Baš kao što je Salvador Dali shvatao da slikarstvo nije dovoljno, već da je potrebno biti pop-zvezda kako biste se izdvojili iz gomile, Vika Gazinskaya samouvereno nosi svaki svoj model, znajući da je njena jedinstvenost savršen ambasador mode koju nosu.

+Ovaj bejeweled džemper prosto zove na DIY, zar ne?

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Many called it a fashion blasphemy when she decided that it's ok to wear her Fall 2012 collection on Paris fashion week, although it was planned to premiere officially a bit later, on a fashion week in Moscow. Maybe not up to the etiquette in the fashion world, but she definitely managed to cause some stir in it. Speaking of good PR, it's not bad to have your BFF/fellow Russian fashionista Mira Duma to walk around a bit in your clothes, especially if it's Paris fashion week. Just like Salvador Dali knew he had to become a pop star to pop out of the rest, Vika Gazinskaya, with her unique and statement-making personality, realizes she's the perfect ambassador for the clothes she wear.

+This bejeweled sweater is simply asking for some DIY, doesn't it?





Sochi fashion week

Rusija, pokušaj prvi. Beograd-Soči via Moskva.

Sada verovatno svi očekuju opšte oduševljenje i utiske veselo šarene poput babuški i ruskih marama, no ništa od toga. Svuda mali broj bogatih uživa u onome što ima a većina pati zbog onoga što nema, ali čini mi se da su u Rusiji su te razlike još malo dublje i tužnije. Boljem utisku sigurno nije pomogla ni činjenica da sam bukvalno ceo dan na provodila na gradilištu - na moru, doduše, ali u sred kišno-snežne zime. Ako u ovu jednačinu ubacite i moje a la Dr House šepanje zbog dvostruko uganute noge, biće vam jasniji krajnji rezultat. I nije to što nisam imala vremena za turistički obilazak, iz kola sam videla dovoljno. Soči možda jeste najveće gradilište u okolini, ali kvantitet nikada nije bio zamena za kvalitet. Dok ne odete u Rusiju mislite da su njihovi sivi socrealistički kubusi vrhunac ružnoće, a onda shvatite da može i mnogo gore. Rusi su razmišljali po principu - ako nas jednostavni modernistički oblici asociraju na period komunizma koji želimo da zaboravimo, ajmo sve suprotno - i upali u kičasto preterivanje i bizarne interpretacije klasicizma.

Neka mi oproste Mira, Ulyanna i Vika, ali reč stil i nije prva koja mi pada na pamet kada razmišljam o Rusiji. Istina je da na osnovu tri dana u Sočiju i pet sati provedenih na moskovskom aerodromu ne smem da sudim, ali svakako mogu da primetim da se tamo i bogatiji sloj društva oblači prilično jeftino. Ne vucite me za jezik objašnjavam, znate već na šta mislim. A sa onakvom klimom, ne morate ni da pitate da li svi nose bunde od prirodnog krzna - pravi taksidermija-bal! Ipak, pošto mi jarčevi i nismo poznati po odustajanju, daću ja još koju šansu Rusiji. Kad već Soči nije, možda me Moskva ili Petrograd kupe.

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Russia, take one. Belgrade-Sochi via Moscow.

Now probably everyone expects waves of joy and impressions as colorful as matryoshka dolls and Russian scarves, but it wasn't like that at all. Of course everywhere a chosen minority enjoys life for what they have and the rest, the majority suffers for what they don't, but it seems that these differences in Russia are even more profound and more sad. Spending the whole day on the construction site didn't help either, and although it was on the seaside, it was in the middle of  a rainy and snowy winter. If you put my Dr House-like limping caused by a sprained ankle into equation, the result becomes even clearer. And it's not the fact that I didn't have any time for classic city tours, I've seen enough from a cab driving us to work every morning. Sochi might be the biggest construction site around, but quantity could never become a substitute for quality. Before you come to Russia you think that grime modernist cubes are the worst that can happen to architecture, but when you arrive you realize it's actually a lot worse. It's quite simple, actually - they became so traumatized by strict geometry of modern architecture that they've tried to escape as far as it gets. And they've got quite far...straight into kitschy via bizarre interpretations of classical architecture.

MiraUlyanna and Vika will forgive me, but style isn't exactly the first word that comes into my mind when someone says Russia. Of course I should not judge upon three days spent in Sochi and five hours on Moscow airport, but I have a right to notice that in Russia even rich dress quite cheap, if you know what I mean. Known for cold climate, you don't even have to ask whether everyone wears real fur coats - Moscow airport was a real taxidermy ball! On the other hand, we Capricorns are not known for giving up, so I will probably give Russia another chance. Even though Sochi didn't, Moscow or Saint Petersburg might buy my love.



Dok sam ja glamurozno šepala po blatnjavim gradilištima Sočija, dešavao se pariski fashion week. Eto, zato kasnim sa utiscima. 

A kad smo već kod (po)stizanja, kako se vi borite sa svakodnevnim obavezama, ima li tu mesta i vremena za blogovanje...? Ja sam u stalnom ratu sa vremenom, uvek ga je premalo za sve što želim da uradim i stalno kasnim (ako se neko pitao zašto nosim dva sata - eto razloga! :). Volela bih da imam više vremena za blog, ali nikako ne želim da redovno postovanje osetim kao obavezu...

Da se vratimo na Pariz. Evo jedne brzinske kompilacije prvih utisaka.

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While I was busy glamorously limping on construction sites of Sochi, there was a fashion week happening in Paris. That's why I'm late.

Speaking of making it on time, how do you manage to squeeze blogging into your everyday busy itinerary...? I'm constantly fighting with time, there's always too little of it for everything I want to do. Even wearing two watches doesn't help, I'm always late! :)

To make for the time lost, let's get back to Paris. Here's a little mix of first impressions.

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// Dries Van Noten
Za početak, Dries veličanstveni - volim da mislim da je on grafički dizajner zalutao u modu. Ovaj put to su šare Dalekog istoka, doslovno precrtane, ali upakovane u sasvim savremenu i nosivu geometriju, da sve ne bi izgledalo kao pozorišni kostim. // For starters, Dries the magnificent - I love to think of him as a graphic designer accidentally working in fashion. This time we have Far East drawings, used literally, but on a very contemporary and wearable geometries to avoid the theater costume effect.


// Balenciaga
Uz Nicolasa Ghesquièra, neopren je prešao dugačak put od ronilačkih odela do ženstvenog i chic! A tek rukavice <3 // Nicolas Ghesquièr manages to put feminine and chic into neoprene! And those gloves <3


// Céline
...pobeđuju u kategoriji pantalone, kao i uvek! // ...gets the award for the best pants, comme d'habitude!


// Haider Ackermann
Maestralno talasanje, poput Christiana Diora nekada! // Masterfully draping monochromatic textures, just like Christian Dior used to!


// Hussein Chalayan
Kralj geometrije, lično. // The master of geometry himself.


// Chanel
Karlova kristalna pećina ostavila me je bez daha... // Karl's crystal cave simply left me breathless...


I za kraj, još malo Rusije... // And a bit more of Russia for the very end...