Blue, white and red

Or is it red, white and blue? Hazel's school had a mini-Olympics on Friday - her class chose Great Britain as the country they would represent, and they were meant to wear blue, white or red clothes. I realised on Tuesday that she didn't have anything in those colours at all. I've had an old red cardigan of mine waiting to be repurposed for her for ages, so I offered to make that and a skirt and amazingly she accepted! I went through all my Ottobre books, and some of Cat's that I had borrowed, to find a cardigan pattern I could use when cutting down my old one. I ended up using the Daytime Dreamer pattern from the Spring 2011 issue...

and then did the skirt and the leggings as well! For the skirt I used some old fabric I had started making a dress out of years ago for my cousin's wedding, only to discover part way through that it was shrinking when ironed and was much too small! It's pretty awful fabric really, very stiff with no drape at all, but it works ok in a layered skirt like this. Alright, it sort of works, it's really too stiff and the skirt sticks out oddly sometimes but she doesn't care! If I were to do it again I'd use a knit fabric.

It looks cute on and she was really pleased with the whole outfit. When it came time to finish the bottom edge of the cardigan she asked if I had to hem it up because it might be too short, so I suggested putting ribbon around it instead. She chose this one from Stitchbird and personally kissed every single animal on it. The sleeves were a bit too short in the end, even though I'd cut them longer than the pattern, so I re-attached the cuffs to them and it actually looks really good instead of a make-do situation! The cardigan fits beautifully, much better than I'd anticipated given the sometimes rather odd Ottobre sizing. Hazel usually comes out at least two sizes smaller for chest/waist/hips than her height which is what the pattern sizes are based on. Anticipating that, I cut a 116cm pattern but 122cm in length. The 116cm should have been on the large size given the measurements, but it's just right and in terms of length 122cm is a bit short. I think I should have cut 122cm wide (her height) and 128cm long. So who knows where she's at with Ottobre sizing at the moment!

I'm feeling a little bleary this morning, having stayed up until 1am the last two nights watching the Olympics. I don't know what it is with them and me - every time the summer ones roll around I'm all "ho-hum" (I do get excited about the winter it has to be said) because I'm really not interested in watching sports on tv. But every time I get sucked in and find myself watching sports like weight-lifting or dressage (pretty ponies!) and really enjoying it. At 1am. The time difference between London and here couldn't be much worse it has to be said!

Negroni Shirt finished

Negroni Shirt, originally uploaded by Hazelnutgirl.

Wow, down to the wire! Mat's off to California for a conference in a few hours and I have only just hemmed the shirt and sewn on the buttons. So no photo of him IN the shirt until later, if he wants to be photographed that is!

Overall I'm fairly happy with it, but there are certain aspects I'm not thrilled with. The facings and collar aren't sitting nicely together and the outside of the yoke is slightly larger than the inside piece so it's slightly puffy-looking. The front facings don't sit nicely where they meet up with the yoke either. I'd need to make a few more to get an idea of whether that's me or the pattern or the fabric or a combination of all three! Probably the latter. It's amazing what pressing can do though!

Overall the style of the shirt is nice, although definitely slim-fitting. Mat's right on the upper range of the measurements for a medium - like he matched the numbers on the pattern exactly! Which is always a good sign in a pattern I think, because it indicates it's good for your proportions. There is an odd gap in the measurements though, with two inches in between all the size ranges, not sure what you're supposed to take from that. I did a tissue-fit that also suggested that the medium was good, particularly around the shoulders. However, the shirt turned out to be a bit slim through the body for him, which I fixed by letting out the side seams slightly (so no nice flat felling on them which is a pity!). The sleeves are also perhaps a skosh too short, but there's not much to be done there. If I make it again I'll cut a large on some pieces and a medium on others. I will also make a proper stand collar, this two-in-one version just doesn't thrill me.

The pattern itself is easy to follow, although the lack of clipping of curves is a puzzle. This isn't the only pattern that I've used recently that omits this rather essential step, nor the worst offender by far, and I can't understand how anyone can get a collar, or the curve on a facing around the neck, to sit nicely if the seam isn't clipped. What do you all think about that? Am I being needlessly pedantic over that step?

Negroni WIP

You know it's dire when your dad reminds you you haven't updated your craft blog in awhile! I've been doing a bit of archaeology work for Mat, and a bit of sewing and a bit of cross stitch and nothing really bloggable in a cool way. But it's meant to be about the process too, so here is some process!

Mat's been asking me to make him another shirt for awhile, and when I saw the Negroni from Colette Patterns I thought it would make a nice change from the Kwik Sew 3422 pattern I've used previously (which is good but a bit more casual and boxy). I had this very nice lawn in the stash that I'd bought to make myself something with but Mat liked it and I thought it would be lovely with the pattern.

I've now finished the body and it's going together well, although I'm not entirely happy with the collar. I'm not sure what this type is called, with the collar and stand in one, but it's that kind.  With the way the shirt is constructed it looks very neat and tidy, but it's just not sitting nicely. I cleverly photographed it so that you can't tell, although if you look very carefully you can see how the upper part of the collar curves into the seam with the lapel, and then the lapel curves out again. Perhaps it will sit better when the sleeves are in, and I'll definitely top-stitch it, so it may work out in the end. If it doesn't then there is a tutorial about turning it into a standard collar which should solve the issues for next time, or I could just use a collar from another pattern. The fabric looks as nice as I'd hoped, and while light-weight is behaving itself.

Mat's off to a conference in Timaru at the end of the week and I'd like to have it finished by then, although it's going to be mighty chilly down there for a light shirt and he's digging out the heavy-duty winter woolies that haven't seen action since Canada the Xmas before last (we're soft and weak up here in Auckland, let's face it).

KCWC Day 3

Big sigh. All that work and the great fabric and the Sunki tunic only fits if she stands completely straight and still.  I re-checked the measurements and she should just be within the 6/7 size range, but obviously this fits slim and more towards the lower end of the range of measurements. The sleeves are also a bit short. So. Dress goes next door to Abbie, who fits it, and I try again. This time I will also raise the bottom of the arm scythe as it's too low and causes the dress to lift when the arms are lifted. Boo-hoo. I'm pretty gutted about this, but serves me right for not tissue-fitting eh?

Luckily I also made up a skirt from an old shirt of mine, so the day wasn't completely wasted!

It was so simple to do I almost hesitate to consider it 'sewing'! The shirt was a tunic-style one with a seam that ran around just under the bust, so I cut off the bottom half, folded over the top and put in some elastic. I didn't even have to hem it!

I'm pleased she really likes it because the fabric is lovely, and buttery soft from age. I was kind of sad to give up on the shirt but to be honest it made me look pregnant and I had stopped wearing it almost a year ago. My stomach is a long way from its pre-baby flatness, but I don't need to make it look any larger than it is!

KCWC Day 2

Phew! This one was a bit of a mind-bender at times but got there in the end! It turned out there was heaps of the blue flowered fabric to do the Figgy's Sunki tunic, so even though I suspect it's a bit crisp for the pattern I couldn't resist the combination!

Hazel hasn't tried it on yet, but I thought I could say a couple things about making the tunic because it's not the most straight-forward thing I've ever made. The tricky bits are the pockets that are set into the princess seams down the front. Unfortunately, the pattern illustration shows one piece a totally different shape than it is in reality which is extremely confusing, and the instructions are fairly brief. There is a further tutorial on the Figgy's site but that didn't really clarify things for me at all and I was in despair! Luckily I found Hemoglobinhummingbird's great tutorial on Flickr, had an "ah-HA!" moment and I was away. The rest of the tunic was pretty straightforward and even the pocket thing isn't that complicated once you have it straight in your head. One thing I did notice though is seam finishing happens in some places and not others - so you need to use your own initiative and finish the facings and some of the pocket areas for example. Same with curve-clipping. Not a biggie, but if you weren't paying attention and didn't do it in those spots, you might not be as happy with the finished result. The next time I do this I will also make the pockets deeper because they're quite shallow and Hazel was a bit put-out she couldn't get her whole hand into them.

I like the pleats in the sleeves - very 80s! I like to think Hazel will be wearing the Year 2 version of the power suit ;) You can see the effect the pleats have better on Angry Chicken's example. The overlap detail is neat too, although I couldn't find any reference in the pattern to sewing them down on each other, perhaps I'm just not reading it right - so I just sewed over the top stitching again.

I'd like to try it again in a heavy knit I think, at the moment I'm thinking the fit might be a bit uncompromising in a fabric with no stretch like this one. Wouldn't it be great if it came in adult sizes though?!

ETA: Aaaah! It's too small! Noooo! All that work and the great fabric and it only fits if she stands completely straight and still.  I rechecked the measurements and she should just be within the 6/7 size range, but it's obviously a very slim fit and more towards the lower end of the range of measurements. The sleeves are also a bit short. So. Dress goes next door if they want it and it fits Abbie and I try again. I will also raise the bottom of the arm scythe as it's too low and causes the dress to lift when the arms are raised. Boo-hoo. I'm pretty gutted about this, but serves me right for not tissue-fitting eh?

Stocking up for a 'Mummy Clothes Week Challenge'...

...of sorts!  But really, I participate quite happily in fun challenges like Elsie Marley's 'Kid's Clothes Week Challenge' but where are the challenges for clothes for Mum to get me going?  Not that I want to get all organised on this, but if anyone else wants to put their hands up for a wee challenge let me know in the comments! Nothing like an element of competition to move things along. Or a deadline...

So here is the pile of fabrics I bought last Thursday when my friend Elizabeth came to visit. Oh it's bad enough fabric shopping on my own but when there's a fellow fabric person there it gets a bit dangerous :) We visited Global Fabrics first and I bought the grey knit (oh so silky and soft and Donna Karan!), the striped knit and the rather virulently pink floral stuff (which is for Hazel natch. It's also not quite as intense in RL!)  Then we popped over the bridge to Nicks Fabric Sale in Takapuna which had come recommended by Heleen at Ruby in the Dust. Oh the marvels! I'm not really used to going to bargain places like that but I'm totally sold now. I'm always a bit grouchy when Americans post about how they don't buy anything over $6 a yard or something because I'm sorry, fabric doesn't come that cheap here. But wait! It does! It comes at $4 a meter which is even longer than a yard. Ahhhh... And there was fusible interfacing for $1/m.  Ok, so the selection was limited, and most of the shop was filled with knits suitable for making polo and rugby tops, but they had some really neat cottons and a table with great off-cuts of posh upholstery fabrics for making cushions etc. I actually recognised some of the fabric as being from Global Fabrics and the guy (Nick?) told us that his uncle owns Global Fabrics so they get their remnants etc. to sell and I can tell you that I paid a LOT MORE for them at Global. Sigh. I hate when that happens! I got the two patterned voiles and the purple knit for 'practicing on' with tops. I've never felt like I could justify practicing on something before!

I've already cut out the green and blue voile for a tunic-style top, have a pattern earmarked for the floral (if there's enough, I need to copy out the pattern and check) and one for the striped knit - all from Burda.  Yay for approaching summer!  I'm hoping to try printing something on the purple knit - has anyone had any experience with doing that on stretchy fabrics? I'm a bit worried it might crack and look awful. I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to do with the grey knit, probably just something fairly basic that will show off the lovely drape.  The pink floral fabric for Hazel - not too sure about that. It's fairly heavy and slightly stiff, with a bit of a stretch. I was thinking a jacket but not sure which one. I'm contemplating this pattern, but I need to look through my Burdas and Ottobre magazines as well. Speaking of which, have you all seen the great clothes in the most recent Ottobre?  Lovely and I'm very very tempted. Ok, so I plan to buy it, its just a matter of time and I have to pretend I have some self-control. Actually I'm tempted to subscribe, has anyone ever done that? Is it worth getting them all or a total indulgence?

The flowergirl dress

I made this dress for the daughter of a friend who is getting married on a Queensland beach in a few weeks. My friend that is, not her daughter! I was appalled at the prices being charged for flowergirl dresses in the bridal shop ($250+!) so I figured that this is what sewing is good at - saving money on high-end outfits. Besides, how hard could a flowergirl dress be? Ha! We looked through the pattern books and nothing appealed until we got to Butterick 4967 which was exactly what my friend was after. So we got the organza and the lining for about $70 ($250 bite me!) and I set to work. I finally handed it off yesterday. Phew.

I was really really pleased with it, it turned out pretty much exactly as I'd imagined it. I love the floaty ruffles and they shimmy most delightfully.

I'll definitely consider making this up in a heavier fabric as a summer dress for Hazel this year. Though having said that, we're off to Canada mid-December (beginning of summer here) and back end of January just in time for school to start for the year. But I'm sure there will be some summer after that!

I was reading a blog the other day that had a section at the bottom of the posts called "Keeping it Real" and I loved that (though I can't remember which blog it was) Ah, it was Pen 'n Paper Flowers. So this is my version:

"The Honest Truth"

• I HATE sewing organza. If I never have to again it will be too soon for me. It's just above minky and velvet in the PITA stakes.
• The ruffles aren't even - I just couldn't keep that darned fabric sitting straight while I was cutting it, despite using a rotary cutter and mat and lots and lots of swearing. Swearing helps keep fabric in place sometimes, honest! Combine that with being cut on the bias (#$&%&!@#!!) and the natural pull up at a seam and the ruffles hoick slightly at the sides and sit a bit unevenly in places.
• I didn't even try and hem the ruffles as per instructions, I just did a rolled hem on the overlocker with thread that was a little whiter than the fabric. I love my friend but I'm not willing to lose my sanity over hemming organza sheer.
• The fabric we chose was too sheer and the bottom ruffle sits on its own, and at the last minute I had to add on a bit of lining I managed to squeeze out of the scraps so that modesty was preserved.
• The sheerness of the organza meant I had to sew the bodice lining into the zipper seam to give it strength instead of slip-stitching it over the top, meaning the zipper tape and fabric edges are exposed and it looks ugly. But hey, I won't be wearing it will I? Plus it's on the inside.
  
• I cut one of the extra lining panels backwards so there is an exposed seam on the inside of the dress. Again, on the inside so no-one the wiser (hopefully).
  

Amazingly though, none of those issues really matter and the little girl literally jumped up and down and clapped when she saw it. And that right there my friends, is why I sew. Though not organza, ever again.

Kid's Clothes Challenge Day One

It's Monday! First day of the challenge. I promised myself that if I spent the morning writing my lecture on the Neandertals I could sew after lunch. After a bit of hemming and hawing I settled on the Bo Peep skirt as first cab off the rank. It's the one that I've found most challenging in terms of fabric selection (mixing patterns and colours!) and the one I've been most worried about:

After an hour I was at this point with the ruffles sewn on one side panel and the other side ready to assemble:

I couldn't bring myself to stop though as it was both challenging and fun to wrangle those ruffles into a straight line and get them sewn down, and when I'd done that it seemed it was just a short step to get the sides sewn to the front and back panels and then before I knew it I'd hemmed it and got the elastic in :P Probably...2.5 hours all up? Hazel really likes it and so do I - photos to come tomorrow!

Mendocino shirt

I'm not sure when I'll ever be organised enough to get a photo of Mat actually in this shirt, so I've taken advantage of it being clean and freshly ironed (hate actually ironing but the outcome is always so satisfying to the soul!) to take a photo.

I'm really quite pleased with how it turned out, given the problems with the pattern. I'll never look at the shirt and think "what a masterpiece" but I got the sleeves sitting as well as I could and they're a million times better than they were, so that combined with the intense love I feel for the fabric means I smile a little smile when I see it and feel quietly pleased. One of Mat's professional specialities is archaeological fish bone, so we both love this fabric for different reasons! Aside from the lovely fish and their amusing expressions, I love the orange and blue together, I think it's my favourite colour combination at the moment. The actual prints are 'Seahorses' in Natural and 'Swimschool' in Pacific (or is it Glass Beach, I can't figure out these names!), you can see them all here and read about the collection at Heather's blog.

My favourite part of the shirt is undoubtedly the collar and collar stand - the seahorses go so well with the little fishies! The pop of the darker orange against the overall whiteness of the shirt really makes it.