Showing posts with label what I use. Show all posts
Showing posts with label what I use. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Paper Pottery Bowl Tutorial Part 2

This is Part 2 of my Paper Pottery Bowl Tutorial, Click here for part 1.

What you will need for Part 2(in addition to the "part 1" stuff);

paint brushes
Sand paper (optional)
Polycrylic*

(*You can purchase the brands I'm using through Amazon)

Alright, so if you've been following along, here's where we are after part 1;


The glue's all dry and we're ready to continue.


Give both the inside and outside of the bowl a thin coat of gesso (paint with the ridges on the paper-not against them). You don't absolutely need this step,
but the gesso does several things;
It primes the paper and glue for painting, fills in small gaps,
and give the bowls a texture that makes them look
and feel a littler more like pottery.


If you only used glue on the inside,
you'll notice the the gesso is cracking as it dries, as shown here.
If you used glue on the outside, it's probably cracking there too.
School glue is actually a great way to get an age/crackling effect which I sometimes use, but if that's not what you want-Good news!
That's why we're using gesso before painting.

Gesso is the stuff you use to prime glass for painting.
It can give just about anything a smooth canvas quality surface to paint on.
So if its not going on even, or in this case, cracking, 
wait for it to dry and then add a few more coats.
You can sand between coats too, if you want. 
Yeah, there are still a couple of tiny holes here,
but they should be small enough to fill in with paint.
(you're welcome to sand/add another coat to yours though)
The rest is all in the painting. (make sure the gesso is dry first)
Keeping it simple, I'm painting mine blue.
Start from the inside and work your way out. 
Remember to paint with the ridges.

 These are miniatures, so any fingerprints in the paint are really going to show. Paint the inside, wait for it to dry, and then do the outside. I could hold the larger bowl a little better, so more of it could be painted, but my fingers pretty much covered the outside of the smaller one.

The number of coats you'll need depends on whether or not it looks streaky when dry, but once you're happy with it,
you're done. One last step, seal them with Polycrylic.
It protects the paint, and gives the pottery a glossy glazed look.
(I recommend the Satin finish for miniatures)
These photos don't include the Polycrylic(all the pottery I post/sell is sealed though) because while working on this I had a neat idea. So before I seal mine...

...I'm going to paint in some tiny goldfish.

So there you have it.
You now know the basics of how to make paper pottery bowls,
just like I do.

^_^

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Looking for more Tutorials and other useful info?

Mini Wire Shelving Tutorial

------------

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 1 

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 2

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Paper Pottery Bowl Tutorial Part 1



My family doesn't think I should be doing tutorials for things that I sell, but I dunno, you can teach someone to paint and still sell your paintings, right? And it's not like I'm giving away any trade secrets here. Heck, I can even link to two other bloggers that know how to do this. (1, 2) Anyone can make miniatures, but it's the style and skill of an artist that makes them unique collectibles. Besides, most of my paper pottery is one of a kind anyway.

If you know anything about paper quilling or paper beads, this shouldn't be too difficult, but for those that never tried it before, this tutorial will teach you the basics. Granted, I never really did either of those things, but I figured this out by just reading about them, so it can't be that hard to learn. Tiny fingers help...and practice...

Since I'm sort of going to be making this bowls right along with you, this tutorial is getting broken up into parts (it takes time for these to dry) .


What you will need for Part 1;
paper
scissors/something to cut with
A skewer or small dowel
*You can purchase the brands I'm using through Amazon

+++++
**Extra Note; Someone on Pinterest has been sharing my tutorial with an attached comment saying to use wood glue. I don't recommend wood glue. It costs more, dries different, has a weird color to it, and it's a messier clean up. Fortunately, I ended up talking to Jennifer of JS Miniatures about this, and she informed me that part of the wood glue comment might be that people in the UK can't get Elmer's glue. So to quote Jennifer (Thank you, btw);

"Alternative to Elmers for the UK would be standard PVA or school type PVA"

So if you can't find Elmers in your country, try that.
+++++

I'm using some scrap printer paper here, it's pretty easy to work with, but I've used everything from paper bags to photo paper for these. Different paper has different results, it's fun to experiment. Little tip though: If this is your first time making these, don't use newsprint. It get's mushy and it's much easier learning how to do this using something that will hold it's shape without much work.


Unless you went out and bought quilling paper, you should cut your paper into thin, relatively even strips.
The right batch of strips here are roughly 1cm wide. In miniature, these are really wide. For this tutorial, I'll be working with the thinner batch on the left, but I'm also going to make a bowl out of the wider batch so you can see what happens. Thin strips = Small round bowl. Wide strips = tall steep-sided bowl/vase.


A standard sheet of printer paper is 11 in. long. I need more paper than that, so I glue strips together.


Wrap the paper once around the skewer, and then glue together the loop you just made.
It should be wrapped kind of tightly, but you also need to be able to carefully slide the coiled paper off of the skewer when you're done.


IMPORTANT: Don't glue the paper to the skewer. Glue the paper to itself. 



Another tip: Put a drop of glue onto your wax paper. When you finish "quilling", it's much easier to dip the end of the paper into glue, then it is to try and use a glue bottle while holding the coiled paper in place.



Now that you're done fiddling with the first gluing part, continue wrapping the rest of the paper around the skewer. Once you start, don't stop until you're done. Keep the tension as even as you can. Remember, if it's too loose, it's just going to unravel when you try sliding it off the skewer. And then you'll end up wrapping again, while everything's all gluey.


I broke my own rule here so I could take this photo, don't stop until you've wrapped all of the paper around the skewer. This is to show you that you should be making, well it's basically a flat disc of paper. If the strips of paper aren't, for the most part, aligned it's not going well and you might want to start over. I've never had that problem with printer paper though.


Are you at the end? Don't let go of the paper you just wrapped! Carefully dip the end of your last strip of paper into the glue I told you to leave out, then press down and hold the end of the paper to the coil until you're sure it's not going to pop apart. Might take a minute or two. You don't need much glue for this part.


Now that everything's wrapped and dry, carefully slide your coiled paper disc off of the skewer. 
Is it stuck? Try twisting the disc. Turn it in the direction that will make the coil tighter. You don't want to loosen the coils, your disc could unravel.
You should end up with a disc that has a tiny hole in the center. You glued the beginning and end, so it should stay together.


Evenly push out the center of the disc. I usually use both of my thumbs to do this part, but again, I had to take a picture. If your fingers aren't small enough for the bowl you're making-dowels, toothpicks, Q-tips anything will work. It's just easier to shape things with your own hands when possible.
IMPORTANT: Remember how wide those strips of paper are. They need to be overlapping. If you push the center out too far it's going to unravel.


If you're having trouble making the bowl symmetrical, 
flip it upside down on the table and squish it into the right shape.


Ta-da! A paper bowl...No, we're not done, but it's looking pretty good.


This is the inside,


This is the inside + glue. I used to fill the whole bowl, but you don't need to do that because...


...You can save on dry times, and glue, by spreading it around. Once dry, 
the coils are locked in place-no more worries about unraveling. 
Depending on the paper you're using, you might want to also glue the outside.
When you're all done, set it on the wax paper (some of the glue is going to leak out the bottom over time), and put it somewhere safe while it dries.


Remember those wide paper strips I showed you at the beginning? 
I used those and made the bowl on the left. 
See what I mean about "Wide strips = tall steep-sided bowl/vase"?
Thin strips for bowls people, thin strips...


Congratulations, we are now at the end of Part 1. Now we wait for our bowls (and my weird vase) to dry. 


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Looking for more Tutorials and other useful info?

Mini Wire Shelving Tutorial

------------

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 1 

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 2

 

 

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Undersized Urbanite - The Eclectic Tile Floor- WIP

This was both a great idea and a terrible idea. Alright, so maybe not 'terrible', but I'm really cutting it too close to the deadline to start a project like this. And yet, I did.

You may recall my dilemma with the carpet for the kitchen/living-room. Well I decided to move the carpet up to the bedroom floor (it needed a carpet, why not that one?), and just extend the tile portion to cover that whole space. Which made it time to actually start on, the now 2x sized, tile floor. And of course, I had to make it one of the most intricate parts of the house.

Step 1, roll out and bake various colors of polymer clay ;


Step 2, Start cutting up the clay into tiles.

Step 3, Have fun with the translucent tiles by gluing cute pen doodles to the backs of the them.

And yes, that batch on the left does say, "KYLE", (twice). I'm putting my name on(in) this floor!
Step 4, Start gluing the tiles into place on a graph paper template, in an 'organized chaos' manner.
Step 5, Remember that the fireplace in this room has a black tile back-splash made out of corrugated paper that needs to kind of match, so add some of that in too.


Step 6, Decide not to be wasteful and start to gather up all of the clay scraps to make into more tiles after you run out of, 'the good pieces'.


Step 7, Make those tiles.


Step 8, After you run out of baked clay, Take a photo to show all of your blog readers how much you underestimated the size of this floor you're making.

White squares = I need to go bake some more clay. :)


The plan was to paint stuff this week, but I wasn't really in the mood for it and for some reason I like the mind-numbing task of mosaic work. So there you go.

 Will I get this house done on time? Stay Tuned!


Friday, March 1, 2013

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 2


Welcome to - Polymer Clay, Part 2

After digging through all of my past files and posts online, I present to you examples of my past work, featuring polymer clay;

You can sculpt figures with it.  Just 15min. in an oven for each piece to cure.
Berries and globs of sherbet for mini Halloween punch. Plus a serving spoon so the 'host' can dish it out.

Indoor mosaic work. 


Dinner Rolls, Candles(fake ones), & tiny gingerbread houses.

Super tiny chocolates.


mini clay bowls by ~Listener-Liserian on deviantART
mini box by ~Listener-Liserian on deviantART
 (If you're wondering about the weird screen-name, It's an old account)

Bowls and boxes, if you're super patient about sculpting...Like I was that week...




Strawberry Charm Pendants by ~Kyle-Lefort on deviantART

Charms!,

 


Black and Blue Clay Cabochon by ~Kyle-Lefort on deviantART
Tree Silhoutte Cabochon by ~Kyle-Lefort on deviantART
 
(Sold, but the others are still available).


The Steampunk Gear by ~Kyle-Lefort on deviantART

Handmade cabochons, and many other jewelry pieces.

---

Of course, there are plenty of other things you can do with polymer clay. I'm just one person with a knack for working small. Hopefully, my work has inspired you (just a little?...maybe?), and now you know a little more about what I use to make it.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Looking for more Tutorials and other useful info?

Mini Wire Shelving Tutorial

------------

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 1 

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 2

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 1


I'm often asked what I use to make my miniatures, jewelry, and other craft work. The short answer is, "Mixed Media", but here, in what I plan on being an ongoing series with my blog, I can further explain specific products, and give recommendations based on what I use to do my own work.


This Week - Polymer Clay, Part 1

Polymer clay is some fun stuff. I used it once to make tiles for a mosaic project back in high school, but  didn't realize just how wonderful of a medium it was until I started using it for jewelry and miniatures.

  • Easy to work with. The heat from your hands makes it softer. 
  • It won't dry out over time, so you can take as long as you want on a project.
  • Oven bake. Low temp, all you need is a toaster oven to cure your work.
  • Comes in a ton of colors, and they're mixable.
  • Unlike ceramic, or most air dry clays, the end results are sturdy-don't break if you drop them.
There are some people that insist that you shouldn't paint this clay, but you actually can, no problem. Just make sure that you're done with baking before you do.


What I recommend;

If you know that you're going to want to use different colors, start off with a Color Sampler;


Or just white (and paint it later);


I bought a 30 color pack when I first started out. Most of the colors were just basic solids, but there were also a few metallic and translucent color types mixed in too. It's cheaper than going out and buying every single color, and you can always buy the individual bricks (which are larger than the sampler bricks), when you start running out of your favorites.

I would also recommend getting a "clay conditioning machine";


With every craft, there are things you'll need and things that are just extras, but I was really being stupid for waiting so long to get one of these. A, "Clay Conditioning Machine," aka pasta machine (which is really what these things are-except you use them for clay), do all sorts of handy things.  Makes mixing clay colors super-easy. You can roll out the clay into flat pieces in just a few seconds. And because you can control the thickness of the clay that rolls out, you can easily measure out the same amount of clay for each piece that you're working on. It didn't take me long to see how much time I saved when doing the annoying parts of clay work, and the quality of my pieces noticeably improved.

At some point I will be doing some clay tutorials, but if you're in the market for more how-to books, there are plenty on Polymer Clay. Haven't bought any of these, but after some browsing here are some neat ones that I found (and now want);


Next Week - Polymer Clay, Part 2 (How I use it)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Looking for more Tutorials and other useful info?

Mini Wire Shelving Tutorial

------------

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 1 

Wonderful Stuff - Polymer clay, Part 2