Landscape - Planting Basics

The following are some planting basics for landscapers to consider.

Proper planting is the key to healthy plants that can resist drought, insects and diseases. A well-prepared planting bed, dug to a depth of 12-15 inches and enriched with organic matter, encourages strong root development for shrub masses, islands and flower borders.

• Dig the bed and remove rocks and clods. Add lime, if indicated by a soil test. Incorporate approximately 2 inches of of fine organic material such as compost. Peat moss by itself is not recommended because it is devoid of nutrients and is difficult to rewet once it dries. Thoroughly
mix the organic matter with the native soil.

•When planting individual trees and shrubs, omit the organic matter and break up the native soil in a wide area around the planting hole. The panting hole should be at least twice the diameter of the root ball.

• Loosen and spread apart root balls to encourage roots to grow outward and to allow water to penetrate into the root mass.

• Before planting, check sub-surface drainage by filling the hole with water and allowing it to drain. If water stays in the planting hole for more than an hour, drainage is poor and needs to be corrected before planting. A slope is no guarantee of good sub-surface drainage. Raised beds or drainage tile may need to be incorporated to improve the site.

Information from "Environmentally Friendly Landscape Practices" By Robert R. Westerfield, Extension Horticulturist and Daryl Pulis, Master Gardener Advanced Training Coordinator, University of Georgia http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubs/PDF/C967.pdf

Landscape and Nursery - Deep Planting Problems

I recently was called to look at a christmas tree farm with failing plants. The problem was related to planting too deep. The following is more information on this problem.

Many trees and shrubs are set too deeply from the time of planting, or they settle too deeply over time. A planting depth of only one-inch too deep can cause trouble. It is not uncommon to see trees planted as much as three or more inches too deep. Deep planting causes bark deterioration at the soil line, which will eventually kill the plant. It usually takes a few seasons for a newly planted tree or shrub to die from this. Various symptoms point to excessively deep planting. Some new growth may develop each spring, only to die-off during the stress of summer. Advanced symptoms of depth-related stress are cankers and deep cracking of the bark. A canker is an area of dead tissue on a woody stem. Some shallow cracking of bark is normal for many trees as the trunk grows. A tree may survive until fall but may not survive the winter because of an insufficient storage of food reserves caused by the damaged bark.

Information from "Common Abiotic Plant Problems", Home & Garden Mimeo # HG 86, University of Maryland.

Landscape - Problems Associated with Poor Planting Procedure

Many of our failing plants in the landscape are due to poor planting procedure. The following is an article on the subject.

The planting process involves the preplanting examination and evaluation of the plant stock type (bare-root, container, balled and burlapped [B&B], mechanical tree spade), the actual physical process of planting and the follow-up maintenance. Problems related to the planting process can originate within each of these.

Consider the idiosyncrasies with each of the previously mentioned stock types, for example, the depth of the trunk/root collar on B&B trees, encircling roots in container- grown plants, root desiccation on bare-root plants and glazing in mechanical tree spade plantings. Each one of these factors can contribute to the success or failure of the plants.

Improper handling and planting procedure contribute significantly to abiotic consequences, especially when they’re combined with soil or environmental limitations at the planting site. Symptoms related to poor planting procedures are similar to those of drought and flooding: shoot dieback, reduced leaf size, minimal shoot growth, root injury and poor root regeneration. If plant excavation is possible, examine the root system for white root tips and signs of root regeneration. Under drought or water deficits, white root tips will be absent, and existing roots will be dried and shriveled. Under excessive moisture and poor drainage, the root system will also lack white root tips and exhibit signs of anaerobic conditions. The blackened outer surface of the roots will slough off, exposing inner gray and water-soaked, stained tissue.

In addition to the obvious plant symptoms, evidence of twine around the base of the trunk, scars from staking or other signs of mechanical injury may lead to conclusions on the causal factors and required treatment. Problems caused by poor planting procedures can be due to marginal plant stock quality; poor soil ball or container media moisture prior to planting or during establishment; improper planting depth, either too high or too low; compacted planting sites and poor drainage through the soil profile; improper irrigation scheduling following planting; and improper mulching practices.


This tree was planted too deeply. The palnting depth is marked by the darkened area. Trees planted too deeply may be drought stressed and often have poor root development. Photo by Joseph LaForest, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.

Information from a section of "Abiotic Plant Disorders - Symptoms, Signs and Solutions A Diagnostic Guide to Problem Solving" by Robert E. Schutzki and Bert Cregg, Departments of Horticulture and Forestry, Michigan State University Michigan State University. Go to http://www.ipm.msu.edu/cat08land/pdf/9-19abiotic.pdf for the full factsheet with photos.

Landscape - Proper Planting

Proper planting is critical in establishing trees and shrubs. The following are some guidelines to follow in planting landscape plants.

Plant and Site Selection

Select trees and shrubs well-adapted to conditions of individual planting sites. Poorly-sited plants are doomed from the start, no matter how carefully they’re planted.

Test soil drainage before planting. Dig a test hole as deep as your planting hole and fill with water. If water drains at a rate of less than one inch per hour, consider installing drainage to carry water away from the planting hole base, or moving or raising the planting site (berm construction).

Also consider using more water-tolerant species. For trees, try red maple, sycamore, bald cypress, willow oak, or river birch. For shrubs, try inkberry, redtwig dogwood and buttonbush. Avoid dogwoods, azaleas, boxwoods, Japanese hollies, and other plants that don’t like “wet feet” where drainage is poor.

Examine soil for compaction before planting. If soils are compacted, consider replacement with a good loam soil, or incorporation of several inches of an organic material such as composted yard waste to a depth of at least 8 inches over the entire planting area. Do not incorporate small quantities of sand - compaction will increase and drainage decrease.

Site Preparation

Dig shallow planting holes two to three times as wide as the root ball. Wide, shallow holes encourage horizontal root growth that trees and shrubs naturally produce.

In well-drained soil, dig holes as deep as the root ball. In poorly-drained heavy clay soil, dig holes one to two inches shallower than the root ball. Cover the exposed root ball top with mulch.
Don’t dig holes deeper than root balls or put loose soil beneath roots because loose soil will compact over time, leaving trees and shrubs planted too deep. Widen holes near the soil surface where most root growth occurs. Score walls of machine-dug (auger, backhoe) holes to prevent glazing.

Backfill holes with existing unamended soil. Do not incorporate organic matter such as peatmoss into backfill for individual planting holes. Differences in soil pore sizes will be created causing problems with water movement and root growth between the root ball, planting hole, and surrounding soil.

Backfill half the soil, then water thoroughly to settle out air pockets. Finish backfilling, then water again. Cover any exposed root ball tops with mulch.

It is generally not recommended to put fertilizers in the planting hole. Howver you can incorporate slow-release fertilizers into backfill soil to provide nitrogen, or if a soil test indicates a need for phosphorus or potassium. Avoid using fast-release agronomic fertilizers that can dehydrate tree roots. Use no more than 1# actual nitrogen per 1,000 ft. of planting hole surface. (Example - if using 18-6-12 with a 5' diameter hole, incorporate 0.3 oz. per planting hole.)

Tree and Shrub Preparation

Closely inspect the wrapping around root balls of B&B (balled and burlapped) trees and shrubs. Growers use many synthetic materials, as well as burlap treated to retard degradation, to wrap root balls. Many of these materials will not degrade. To insure root growth into surrounding soil, remove pinning nails or rope lacing, then cut away or drop the wrapping material to the bottom of the planting hole, backfilling over it.

Wire baskets used to protect root balls degrade very slowly underground. Remove the top 8-12 inches of wire to keep equipment from getting caught in wire loops, and surface roots from girdling.

Remove all rope, whether jute or nylon, from trunks. Again, degradation is slow or nonexistent, and ropes can girdle trunks and roots.

Remove plastic containers from container-grown trees and shrubs. For plants in fiber pots, break away the top or remove the pot entirely. Many fiber pots are coated to extend their shelf life, but this slows degradation below ground and retards root extension.

In container palnts, if roots are circling around the root ball exterior, tease the roots out with a hand fork to prevent circling roots from eventually girdling the trunk. Cut any that stay circling. Select trees grown in containers with vertical ribs or a copper treatment on the interior container wall. These container modifications and treatments minimize circling root formation. Remove as much of the media as possible from the root ball without damaging the roots. This will allow the plant to root mor quickly into the soil.

Tree Care After Planting

Remove tags and labels from trees and shrubs to prevent girdling branches and trunks. Good follow-up watering helps promote root growth. Drip irrigation systems and water reservoir devices can facilitate watering.

Mulch, but don’t over mulch newly planted trees and shrubs. Two to three inches of mulch is best - less if a fine material, more if coarse. Use either organic mulches (shredded or chunk pine bark, pine straw, composts) or inorganic mulches (volcanic and river rocks).

Keep mulch from touching tree trunks and shrub stems. This prevents disease and rodent problems if using organic mulches, and bark abrasion if using inorganic mulches.

Don’t use black plastic beneath mulch around trees and shrubs because it blocks air and water exchange. For added weed control, use landscape fabrics that resist weed root penetration. Apply only one to two inches of mulch atop fabrics to prevent weeds from growing in the mulch.

Only stake trees with large crowns, or those situated on windy sites or where people may push them over. Stake for a maximum of one year. Allow trees a slight amount of flex rather than holding them rigidly in place. Use guying or attaching material that won’t damage the bark. To prevent trunk girdling, remove all guying material after one year.

Most trees should not have their trunks wrapped. Wrapping often increases insect, disease, and water damage to trunks. Thin-barked trees planted in spring or summer into hot or paved areas may benefit from wrapping if a white wrap is used. To avoid trunk girdling, do not attach wraps with wire, nylon rope, plastic ties, or electrical tape. If wraps must be used, remove within one year.

For protection against animal or equipment damage, install guards to protect the trunk. Be sure the guards are loose-fitting and permit air circulation.

Adapted from the fact sheet "Tree and Shrub Planting Guidelines" Authors: Bonnie Lee Appleton, Extension Specialist and Susan French, Extension Technician,AREC, Hampton Roads; Virginia Tech