Aviation History in Tuskegee

On our travels this summer we’ve driven several stretches of Tuskegee Airmen Memorial Highway, and when researching the topic, I was interested to learn there are honorary Tuskegee Airmen sections of interstate all over the US. We’ve got a section of Interstate 95 in Colleton County right here in South Carolina, near the Tuskegee Airman Memorial in Walterboro. However it was on our return trip from the Florida panhandle that we were really able to delve into this aspect of aviation history, with a stop at the Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site in Alabama.

Tuskegee Airmen NHS Hangar #1

In the early 1900s, aviation was closed to African Americans, military aviation completely inaccessible. When Congress passed the Civilian Pilot Training Act in 1939, they intended to generate large numbers of pilots who could quickly transfer into military aviation if needed. When programs were established in colleges around the country, they included six black colleges, thanks in part to the efforts of the National Airmen’s Association of America. One of those programs was at the Tuskegee Institute, 30 miles east of Montgomery, Alabama.

In May of 1940, the first class of CPT pilots completed their elementary flight training at Kennedy Field. After legislature such as the Selective Training and Service Act of 1940 were passed, pressure from civil rights organizations and the press eventually led to the establishment of the segregated 99^th Pursuit Squadron in January 1941. Tuskegee Institute’s Moton Field and Tuskegee Army Air Field were the only training facilities for African Americans throughout the war, and the achievements of the Squadron's pilots came despite continuing racism and segregation, in Tuskegee as well as at overseas bases.

There is a Park Service Jr. Ranger Program at the Historic Site to help children understand the exhibits

By the end of the war almost 1,000 pilots had been trained. Even more impressive is the number of African Americans trained for service in the US Army Air Corps… 17,000 men and women were schooled as mechanics, communications & electrical system specialists, armament specialists, medical technicians, cooks, clerks, parachute riggers, air traffic controllers, flight instructors, bombardiers and navigators. All are known today as Tuskegee Airmen.

Taking in the view from the control tower

Start your visit to Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site at Hangar #1 with a site orientation video and a look at two restored vintage airplanes and various exhibits. Continue on to Hangar #2 to see a wide assortment of artifacts and exhibits, including a replica P-51 Mustang. The initial Hangar #2 was destroyed by fire in 1989, but at the rear of the reconstructed hangar is the original Control Tower. Climb up to view where clearance to take off and land was given before stopping at the Bookstore for additional literature or a souvenir. Other structures onsite include the Cadet House, Army Supply Building, Auxiliary Storage Shed, Bath and Locker House, and the Skyway Club, the rec facility servicing all military ranks and civilians at the time.

The George Washington Carver Museum and Tuskegee Institute Information Center

While in Tuskegee, make sure to budget time to also explore Tuskegee Institute National Historic Site. It was here, in a repressive post-Reconstruction Alabama, that a celebrated university and symbol of African American achievement was born. Many of the buildings constructed while Booker T. Washington was president still stand, providing an architectural aspect to the history lesson. Both sites are free to the public; see websites for hours. Bottom line; the Tuskegee Airmen NHS provides valuable insight into our nation's history - military, civil rights, women's rights, aviation - as well as echoing the recurring theme of the last century: persistence and triumph in the face of racism and discrimination.

Tompkins Hall at Tuskegee Institute

A fascination with aviation in Florida's panhandle

If you’ve ever driven along the coast of the Florida panhandle then you know that there is more than one military installation in the western portion of the state. Tyndall, Eglin, Choctaw, Pensacola… on a visit to any one of the big towns you’ll probably see signs directing you to the bases, and you’ll hear a variety of military aircraft flying over on maneuvers and training. However, if you’re hoping to catch a glimpse of an airplane you don’t have to wait with a view to the sky; you can just head to one of two aviation museums in the panhandle for an adventure in flight and history!

Air Force Armament Museum, Eglin Air Force Base

On our way from Panama City and St. Andrews State Park to Pensacola we stopped at the Air Force Armament Museum (AFAM) near Destin. Located on Eglin Air Force Base, the AFAM is dedicated solely to the collection, preservation and exhibition of artifacts and memorabilia associated with Air Force Armament and its delivery platforms. From World War I to today's high tech planes and bombs, aviation and history buffs alike can enjoy an extensive collection of aircraft as well as the history and science behind the weaponry and airplanes.

Inside the enormous hall you’ll find four aircraft, cockpit simulators and the museum. Exhibits include the “Early Years” as well as sections on the Korean, Vietnam and Gulf Wars. It was intimidating seeing the missiles and bombs up close, and interesting to see the progression of guns, special ops and other equipment over time.

Outside on the surrounding complex are 30 displays of vintage military aircrafts and other equipment, including the fastest plane ever built - the SR-71 Blackbird. We recognized multiple airplanes from the Collings Foundation Wings of Freedom and the Commemorative Air Force Fighters & Bombers tours in Greenville, however there were many airplanes, helicopters, armored vehicles and drones that the kids and I had never seen up close.

The B-17 bomber

The museum is open daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm, Monday - Saturday (except on federal holidays), and admission to the museum is free. I would suggest exploring the outdoor exhibits in the morning when it is cooler, or on an overcast day, while the museum can offer a reprieve from the Florida sun or something to do on a rainy day.

Air Force Armament Museum website here.

The Sikorsky MH-53

National Naval Aviation Museum, Naval Air Station Pensacola

During our time in Pensacola we spent one day on the Naval Air Station side with stops at the Pensacola Lighthouse, Fort Barrancas, and the National Naval Aviation Museum (NNAM). The NNAM is enormous, housing more than 150 historic aircraft and an array of exhibits, artwork and memorabilia documenting historic figures and events in Naval Aviation. 350,000 square feet of exhibit space makes it one of the largest aviation museums in the world.

Located just a few miles from the beach where the Navy’s first air station was established in 1914, the Museum is adjacent to Forrest Sherman Field, home to Training Air Wing Six and the Navy’s Blue Angels who can often be seen training overhead.

From the record-setters that explored the South Pole and first crossed oceans, to battle-scarred veterans from Midway to Iraq – NNAM has it all. A 4D Blue Angels Experience, flight simulators and a Naval Aviation Memorial Giant Screen Theater offer additional adventures (for tickets prices see the NNAM website). The boys particularly enjoyed the “Kiddie Hawk” area, modeled to look like the island of an aircraft carrier and featuring items that are found on a real ship.

Admission to NNAM is also free (although this does not include the simulators and theater experiences I mentioned above), and the Museum is open 9am to 5pm daily. It is important to note that visitors 16 years and older must have valid photo identification, and if you don’t possess a Department of Defense ID you must enter and exit the Naval Air Station Pensacola through the West Gate off Blue Angel Parkway. On some days there are special events including Blue Angels visits (there was a naval wedding on the day we visited), so you might want to check out the schedule of events.

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While neither museum compared to the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in size, they were both among the boys’ favorite destinations on our Florida panhandle trip. From close-up looks at some of coolest airplanes ever made, to the chance to clamber into cockpits – the kids just ate it up. I found the insight into aviation history interesting, although standing next to the first airplane to cross the Atlantic by air (NC-4) or the SBD Dauntless Bureau Number 2106 that survived the Battle of Midway offered its own thrill. There is nothing to make you feel quite as tiny as being in the shade of a B-52!

The historic NC-4

Whatever your reason for heading to Florida’s panhandle, I suggest a visit to one of these two museums. Admission to both sites is free, but the experience – priceless.

The First Flight at Kill Devil Hills

One hundred and fifteen years ago, on a remote, sandy beach in North Carolina, Orville Wright flew. It was the first time that a manned, heavier-than-air machine left the ground by its own power, moved forward without losing speed and landed on a point as high as that from which it started. The site of this first flight has been immortalized as the Wright Brothers National Memorial, and is a testament to the ingenuity and determination of man.

This historic site is not quite so remote these days, located at the epicenter of activity on the Outer Banks, in Kill Devil Hills. After making the short drive from Duck, our visit started in a temporary visitor center, as the Visitor Center is undergoing renovations through late summer/fall of 2018. We picked up Jr. Ranger booklets, took a look at the exhibits, and then set out on foot to the reconstructed 1903 hanger and quarters/workshop. The wooden structures depict the hangar used for the flyer that made history on that winter day in 1903, and the workshop is furnished with items like those the Wrights used.

A little further, a granite boulder marks where the first plane left the ground on December 17, 1903. The first flight was only 120 feet, but three more flights that day each flew longer and further, the fourth flying 852 feet in 59 seconds before a gust of wind flipped it over a short while later rendering it earthbound. These four flights are marked by smaller stone markers that allow visitors to walk in the shadow of this historic occasion; remember to stay on the path to avoid sand spurs and prickly pear cacti.

Heading down the walkway in the other direction from the First Flight Boulder takes visitors up to the Wright Brothers Monument atop Kill Devil Hill. The 60-ft monument honors the Wright Brothers and marks the site of the hundreds of glider flights that preceded the first powered flight. The 90-ft sand dune has a great view of the Park, the vista extending to the Atlantic Ocean and over the First Flight Airstrip.

Yes, the Park includes an actual airport! The 3,000-ft paved airstrip serves small planes, and during our visit there was constant air traffic – a perfect backdrop to exploring this historic site. The vantage point from up by the Memorial allows you to watch the small planes taking off and landing, entertaining the younger kids that aren't as interested in the historic aspect of the Park.

On the opposite side of Kill Devil Hill is the December 17, 21903 sculpture. The bronze and stainless steel plane recreates the historic flight, as captured in a photograph taken by John Daniels from the nearby lifesaving station who had come to watch the brothers as they attempted to make history. There are benches and picnic tables nearby, providing a nice place to relax and contemplate the wonder of flight while the kids dream up their own aviation adventures on the life-sized model.

Not even 70 years after the Wrights’ historic first flight on the Outer Banks we’ve landed a man on the moon – to think that the 1903 flyer was the first step in the evolution of human flight… The Wright Brothers National Memorial is an educational stop for visitors to the Outer Banks, one that proved anything is possible – even human flight.

After a short pause we headed back to the visitor center so that the boys could turn in their completed Jr. Ranger booklets, however our day's adventures were far from over; we were headed to nearby Jockey's Ridge for more sand dunes and flight...

  

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Our visit occurred shortly before the anniversary celebration of the first flight, in late November. I recommend taking weather into consideration when planning your visit, as it gets extremely hot in the summer (also, the Park is very exposed to lightning and will shut down if it snows); bring water bottles and sunscreen, it is like a visit to the beach. Winter temperatures are rather mild, but the wind can be brutal. For entrance fees and operating hours, see park website.

NYC and Jamaica Bay

The next day in Brooklyn arrived cool and overcast, and instead of hopping on the subway to go east into Manhattan, we elected to go west, to Jamaica Bay. After our two days in Manhattan and trip on the Staten Island Ferry, these would be the third and fourth boroughs explored on our trip, as Jamaica bay is split in half between Brooklyn and Queens. Our destination was Gateway National Recreation Area, a 26,000 acre national park that includes the Sandy Hook Unit in New Jersey, the Staten Island Unit (Great Kills Park, Miller Field and Fort Wadsworth), and the Jamaica Bay Unit. My advice is to concentrate on one of the three units in a day, as even travel from one end of Jamaica Bay to the other can take an hour.

Our first stop was Floyd Bennett Field, New York City’s first municipal airport used by famous aviators in their quest to break records in the early days of aviation. At one point Floyd Bennett was one of the country’s most important naval air stations. We stopped by the visitor center for maps, junior ranger workbooks and itinerary suggestions, and checked out the exhibits before continuing on. Activities at Floyd Bennett field include biking, birding, camping, hiking, fishing, kayaking and picnicking, and it is an interesting stop for those interested in aircraft restoration and military history.

Continuing south on Flatbush Avenue will take you to across a toll bridge to Jacob Riis Park, Fort Tilden and Breezy Point. Jacob Riis Park was created in the early 1900s as a seaside recreation area, and today features basketball, biking, golf, volleyball and swimming during the summer months. Fort Tilden leans more heavily on the historic, as it had the important role of protecting the NY Harbor in the time period from WWI through the Vietnam War. With rain in the forecast we chose to skip this end of Gateway, instead returning to the Belt Parkway, and circling the bay to Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge, the only National Wildlife Refuge managed by the National Park Service (and not the Fish & Wildlife Service).

On our way to the Refuge we passed Canarsie Pier, reputed to have some of the best fishing on the bay, and then turned south on Cross Bay Boulevard. After cutting through Howard Beach and passing Frank Charles Memorial Park, the bridge crosses onto Broad Channel Island, and the Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge occupies the northern half of the island.

One of the largest bird sanctuaries in the northeastern US, over 330 species of birds pass through the area in migration along the Atlantic Flyway. Bats, butterflies and fish also stream through the Refuge in their migration up and down the coast, and in the fall, thousands of hawks migrate south along the dunes. In spring, horseshoe crabs return to the park’s shallow bays, and several pairs of osprey nest in what is for them a fertile hunting ground. The unique ecosystem includes grasslands, wetlands and dunes, and hosts a myriad of plants that vary from holly and oak, to wildflowers, to prickly pear cactus. While there are multiple trails that cover the area, it is prudent to start your visit at the Visitor Center where you will learn which trails are currently open and seasonally most interesting. (See trail map here)

As it was lunchtime upon our arrival we settled in at one of the picnic tables near the parking lot to fuel up before venturing out on the trail. The boys were delighted by a visit from a park ranger with a diamondback terrapin (Malaclemys terrapin), a turtle species native to coastal tidal marshes in the eastern and southern US. The terrapin had managed to gain entrance to the refuge office, and was being relocated back to the marsh. The diamondback’s population in Jamaica Bay has declined by more than half in the last decade, and as the terrapin plays a crucial role in the ecosystem’s health and resiliency, research is underway to determine the root cause of this decline – which up until now is a mystery.

photo credit: Anna

no terrapins harmed in the making of this photo (photo credit: Anna)

Just as we were finishing up our lunch it began to rain, and even with our rain gear on we decided to spend some time in the Visitor Center to see if it would let up before starting a hike. The timing couldn’t have worked out any better, and just as we had finished viewing the educational exhibits and movie (and stamping our Park Passports) it stopped raining and we could head out on the trails.

In 2012 Hurricane Sandy breached the south shore of West Bay, introducing saltwater to what was a freshwater marsh, and destroying a portion of the West Pond Trail. While it currently is not possible to walk the entire way around West Bay (as the trail is closed past North Garden and Black Bank), the short walk to view the osprey platform was perfect to get a feel for the dune and marsh ecosystems. We admired the osprey, explored the South Garden, and returned to the Visitor Center with completed Junior Ranger booklets.

As the boys were still craving access to the water, we made one last stop in the Refuge, just short of Joseph P. Addabbo Bridge. The fishing area on the north end of the island has a gazebo and two parking lots, and seemed a rather popular spot with the locals. It wasn’t until we had ventured out across the sand to the water a short ways that we noticed all the strange items that had washed up on shore, and realized that it might not just be the fishing and birdwatching bringing New Yorkers to this point. Religious icons, small bowls and other offerings littered the sand, providing a treasure hunt for the boys but giving us an uneasy feeling about what truly goes on in this seemingly remote location. Across the bay are what were formerly the Pennsylvania Avenue and Fountain Avenue landfills – today an example of restoration creating a multitude of recreation opportunities for the local community. However it seems that the dumping has just shifted to this side of the bay, and after letting the boys have some fun in the surf we scrubbed their hands, changed their clothes, and herded them to the car for the return trip home… for a bath!

Our visit just scratched the surface of Gateway NRA, the Staten Island and Sandy Hook Units left unexplored. However, with its proximity to the city and unique dune and marsh habitats, the Jamaica Bay unit made for a great day trip. The trip was a breath of fresh air – just a short distance from the popular Brighton and Manhattan Beach areas, as well as Coney Island.  Our boys had a chance to splash around a bit, while we also got our fix of nature and saw what the area might have looked like 500 years ago before the Dutch first lay claim to the land. We returned to the Belt Parkway and spent some time fighting traffic back towards Upper Bay, but the memories from our day in the Gateway of America have stayed with us even after our visits to far more famous spots in New York City…

Three Historic WWII Airplanes to Visit Greenville

As first seen here on local family site, Kidding Around Greenville...

Any history buffs or airplane enthusiasts in your bunch? In one week three historic WWII planes will be landing at the downtown Greenville airport as part of the Commemorative Air Force (CAF) Fighters & Bombers tour. The B-25 “Miss Mitchell,” a P-51 “Red Nose” and an SBD-5 Dauntless dive bomber will be on display from May 5^th through the 7^th as part of a five-stop tour to commemorate the 75^th anniversary of the Doolittle Raid over Japan. Many aircraft were scrapped for aluminum after the war, and so it is uncommon to find restored WWII planes that are still flight-worthy 70 years later; this is your chance to see not one, but three notorious aircraft up close!

The planes!

The North American B-25 Mitchell is an American twin-engine, medium bomber named in honor of aviation pioneer Major General William "Billy" Mitchell. The B-25B was the bomber used in the Doolittle Raid four months after the bombing of Pearl Harbor, and although the damage inflicted during the raid was relatively minor, the mission forced the Japanese to divert troops for home defense for the remainder of the war.

The North American Aviation (NAA) P-51 Mustang is an American long-range, single-seat fighter and fighter-bomber used during World War II and the Korean War. During WWII the US P-51s carried out more than 213,873 missions, destroying 4,950 enemy aircraft – almost 50% of the total losses suffered by the enemy.

The SBD was developed before WWII, and although it was considered obsolete when the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, it was the 1^st American combat aircraft to shoot down a Japanese Zero fighter, and is considered to have helped turn the tide of WWII at the Battle of Midway on June 4, 1942.

Tour info!

The hours of this event are as follows: Friday May 5^th 12:00pm – 5:00pm, Saturday May 6^th 9:00am- 5:00pm and Sunday May 7^th 9:00am- 5:00pm. While there is no charge to view the aircraft, rides are only available by purchase. For pricing and more information, please visit the CAF Fighters & Bombers Tour website.

Parking will be available near the Runway Cafe ramp of the Greenville Downtown Airport (GMU), located on Airport Road Extension in Greenville. Plan on spending some time at the aviation-themed playground during your visit, and if you get hungry, the Runway Café has a kids menu… Check out my posts Aviation Park at GMU and Watching the planes posts for more on that!

The Commemorative Air Force (CAF) is a non-profit organization, established with the purpose of restoring and flying WWII aircraft. The organization is based in Dallas, TX, and operates a fleet of more than 166 aircraft, the world’s largest flying museum. To learn more about CAF’s mission to educate the present and future generations visit their website. GMU has also been host to WWII planes during the Colling Foundation Wings of Freedom tour; for more on that please see my post WWII Bombers in Greenville. 

Yet Another Baltic Christmas - Day 4 Lithuanians in ATL, the World's Busiest Airport

From Seattle to Atlanta, today during the 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas we have landed at Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport, where the Atlanta Lithuanian-American Community has decorated a Christmas tree in the International Terminal!

The Director of International Business at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport Ms. Arlene Barr invited the Atlanta Consular Corp (which represents 75 nations worldwide) to participate in ATL’s Winter Wonderland Celebration. Of the ten trees available to decorate throughout the International Terminal, the Lithuanian Honorary Consulate was selected to decorate one to showcase the beauty and unique qualities of the Lithuanian Christmas tradition. 

Šarunė Stankevičienė and Silvija Aniulienė joined Honorary Consul Dr. Roma Kličius to decorate the tree last week. The ornaments are all hand-made of straw (natural and plastic) by members of the Atlanta community, a portion especially crafted for this tree by Stankevičienė and Aniulienė.

Sarune adding the finishing touches

For information on events organized by the Lithuanian community in the Atlanta area please visit their website. The Atlantos Lietuviu Bendruomene / Atlanta Lithuanian-American Community is also on facebook here, with information on future events such as the December 10^th Lithuanian Mass and Traditional Christmas Eve Dinner in Marietta on the events tab.

Šarunė Stankevičienė, Silvija Aniulienė and Dr. Roma Kličius, Honorary Consul of the Republic of Lithuania

Dr. Kličius writes, "We are really proud and thankful to Atlanta International Airport for the opportunity to display our Lithuanian 'business card' at the busiest airport in the world!" Thank you to Silvija Aniulienė and Dr. Kličius for their photographs and assistance with this post! Please join us tomorrow in our journery from ATL to ORD...

Toronto Island Park

When I think of being a tourist in Toronto, I think CN Tower, Ripley’s Aquarium Canada, ROM, High Park and the waterfront, a combination of historic, iconic, family-adventure and the outdoors. What this list is missing might be the best option to get in a little of everything Toronto-ish in just one day… a visit to Toronto Island Park.

This island retreat in the middle of the city is accessible by a short ferry ride from the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal in downtown Toronto, within walking distance from the popular Harbourfront area. Ferry prices are reasonable: adults $7.50, students/seniors (ages 15-19 and over 65 with proof of age) $5.00, children ages 2 to 14 $3.65 and infants under 2 free (prices in Canadian dollars as of May 2016 and include return trip, for vehicle pricing and monthly pass info see ferry website). On your way out to the island grab a spot at the railing looking back at the city – the view of the Toronto skyline is unbeatable, except maybe from a plane…

There are actually three separate ferries, one heading to Ward’s Island on the east end, one to Hanlan’s Point on the west end, and the third to Centre Island. Home to Far Enough Farm and Centreville Amusement Park, the 30 rides and bevy of animals could keep you busy all day. Keep in mind there’s still the entire main island to explore, starting with its four beaches: Ward’s Island Beach (west end), Centre Island Beach, Gibraltar Point Beach and Hanlan’s Point Clothing Optional Beach (east end). We chose Manitou, even though with three kids under six clothing optional activities are rather commonplace.

We crossed the bridge from Center Island and strolled past a fountain and through large, formal gardens to reach the water. The pier at Manitou Beach is adjacent to the island bar, bicycle rental and changing room facilities, and Centre Island Beach is right there. All the beaches have lifeguards on site, but pay attention to the flags; it might be a red-flag day due to water quality. Don’t let this keep you dry though, head to the nearby splash pad and playground if the sun and surf isn’t your thing!

out on the pier

My favorite part of the whole Toronto Island Park experience was Franklin Children’s Garden. This interactive garden is inspired by the Franklin the Turtle book series, and there was so much to explore that we ended up spending over an hour there. We climbed the Snail Trail, played in the Hide and Seek Garden, watched bees at the Pollination Station and helped water the Little Sprouts Garden.

The William Meany Maze is not far from the gardens and proved to be a challenge the boys couldn’t resist. 1,200 black cedar trees create a hedge maze to truly get lost in…

A little further west from the garden is the Gibraltar Point Lighthouse, the 200 year-old (reportedly haunted) historical beacon that is the oldest stone building in Toronto and Canada’s oldest standing lighthouse. Past that is Hanlan’s Beach, beyond which is Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport, which you might have flown into if you’ve ever flown Porter to Toronto – a good spot to watch planes with the kids. Meanwhile, on the east end of the island are the car-free communities of Ward’s and Algonquin Islands with their distinctive architecture and beautiful summer gardens (approximately 750 people live in the 262 homes year round). There is a guided tram tour that will visit all these historical sites, or you can rent a boat or paddleboard and explore via water. And if swimming, cycling and boating don’t use up all your energy, there’s even an 18-hole disc golf course, volleyball courts and tennis courts. Once you get hungry there are food & beverage vendors located through the park, or you can find one of the 40 picnic sites dotting the island if you’ve brought your own food. Finally, you’ll find several other park and private vendors and activities throughout the park, ranging from the Toronto Island Challenge Course to the Pirate Life Children’s Theatre, which urges visitors to join the crew & search for treasure!

I’m not sure when we’ll next return to Toronto, but I hope that on our next trip Toronto Island Park is included. I would love to explore in autumn when the monarch butterflies are migrating through, to see the sand dunes in the spring, or to take the boys fishing; northern pike, panfish and largemouth bass populate the weedy shallows of the lagoons. It would be fun to take either the Ward’s Island or Hanlan’s Point ferry across and then work our way across the entire park, we would just have to tear ourselves away from the beaches and gardens! The park is truly an island escape, and although you might be reluctant to leave, just make sure of one thing – that you don’t miss the last ferry back to the city and that scenic view of the downtown skyline!