The Historical Sew Fortnightly #3 - Under It All

Ah, I finally got something done for the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge. Yay! And I finally got something out of the UFO pile. Three somethings, actually.

For this challenge, I finished up my 18th century half boned stays and two petticoats, one linen and the other wool. I originally started making them for a Burnley and Trowbrige workshop I was going to back in November, but Hurricane Sandy foiled my plans.

So, to begin, the stays.

The Challenge: #3, Under It All

Fabric: Worsted wool, different kinds of linen, leather for the binding.

Pattern: J.P. Ryan's half boned stays, as well as the stays in Costume Close Up.

Year: Later 18th century

Notions: Linen thread in various weights, linen tape for lacing, silk ribbon for trim, reed boning. 

How historically accurate is it? As best as I could get. I can't speak for the pattern, but I think it's pretty good. The stitching and materials used were as close to accurate as I could possibly get. I used the same fabrics and thread (materials and weight) as was listed in Costume Close Up. Same stitches, too. It's completely hand done. For sure what's not accurate is that it was not draped for me. Also, the silk ribbon lace across the front was just for fun. No exact examples to support it historically, though I have seen similar designs on the front, like this one. Also, there is a very similar pair of shoes... 

Hours to complete: I really don't know. I started them some time last year and picked them up here and there.

First worn: Not yet.

Total cost: I bought a yard or so of the wool from Burnley and Trowbridge for like $15 or $20. Everything else I had on hand.

On to some notes... All in all, I like how the pattern came together. It was interesting to put together the stays in a very historically accurate way. I must say the leather binding was a nightmare, though. Ugh. The stays fit very well on my body, but on headless they look a little sad, since she has no squish. Next time I decide to make stays, I think I will try a fully boned style. The half boned is nice for later 18th century, but it doesn't have the rigidity for earlier in the century.

Next, the petticoats... Pretty straightforward in their construction. Pretty period correct. I made the linen coat shorter to wear as an under petticoat. The wool can be either under or to wear on the outside.

Fabric: One in white linen and one in blue plain weave wool.

Pattern: None really. Draped by me.

Year: 18th century

Notions: Linen thread and tape for the linen coat. Wool thread and tape for the wool coat.

How historically accurate is it? Pretty darn. I used, to the best of my knowledge, period correct fabrics and stitches. I think the only questionable bit is the width of the selvages. 

Hours to complete: Not too bad. Maybe a few hours or more per coat.

First worn: Not yet.

Total cost: I had the linen on hand. The wool I bought from William Booth for about $20 per yard.

Progress on a Shortgown, Petticoats, Stays and a Queen Stitch Pinball

Happy Saturday all! This was a pretty productive week. I've made progress on a number of projects. I often start a bunch at once so I can rotate between them as I get tired and/or bored :)

I finished up a bedgown, or shortgown, got two petticoats ready to be pleated and finished up, got a good start on a queen stitch pinball and I started binding my stays.

A little about the petticoats first. One is white linen, to be worn as an underpetticoat, so it will be a little on the short side. The blue one is wool from William Booth Draper. Both are hand stitched with linen thread. 

The construction, so far, has gone very well. Very simple. I measured from my waist down to get a length for the coats (front and back - they are often different), then added inches for seam allowances. The fabric was fiddly to tear, so I pulled a thread out and cut along the open space to get the rectangles. The selvedges became the side seams, which were done up in running stitches with an occasional backstitch thrown in for good measure. Space was left open at the top for pocket slits. Then I hemmed the bottom with a 1/2" hem, also stitched the same way. Next both coats will have the top (waist edge) folded down and pleated to a band of tape. Wool for the wool and linen for the linen. Easy peasy.

As an experiment, I decided to do these in assembly line fashion, instead of one at a time. It seems to be faster, since each step I am doing twice in a row, instead of completely one petticoat and starting all over again.

The leather is still unfinished at the tabs.

The stays, above, are completely hand sewn, as well, and done up as true to the 18th century way as I have learned. In the last week, I made the eyelets up the back (linen 16/2 from William Booth), tacked leather strips down the seams and started binding the bottom with leather as well. I got the leather from Burnley and Trowbridge.

So tough! The leather is killing me. I - of course - use a thimble, but it is still no easy task. It's taken hours and I have gone through a few needles already, but I'm a little bit thrilled to be nearing the end and being one step closer to having my own hand sewn stays. Yay :)

So on to the pinball...

Queen stitch looks like little diamonds to me.

I started stitching this up thinking it would go oh-so-quickly. Queen stitch turns out to be very tedious, especially when it's almost white on white! But I think it's looking cute so far :) I loosely based the design on an extant pinball from the Winterthur Collection. I smooshed it up in my hoop for the photo. 

I have used DMC cotton floss, separated into single strands, on a backing of white linen.

 And lastly, the bedgown, or shortgown. The only thing I truly finished this week.

Sorry, I need a pressing.

I used the Waverly curtains for this one. It's such a pretty chintz! I am not 100% sure of the weave for this kind of project, but I liked the fabric too much to be a nazi :)

I scaled up a pattern from Costume Close Up, and then added inches here and there so it would fit me. Looking back, I would have added a smidge extra to the sleeves. The length is just past the hip, so it could have used a bit more there as well, to look like the shortgowns I have seen in paintings and prints, however I need it for a mantua making workshop, where I'm sure I will be taking it on and off frequently for fitting, and I didn't want yards of loose of fabric tangling around me.

The short gown is lined and sewn with white linen. The seams/hems follow the instructions in the book, as best I could understand. They are a mix of combination stitch (running with occasional back), whip stitch, slip stitch and point a rabbatre sou la mains. The assembly entails stitching the fashion fabric layers and one lining together, then folding the second lining over it and stitching that down to enclose the seam. There is a nice illustration of this in Costume Close Up.

Piecing! I love piecing :)

Inside, just for a peak at the different finished seams.

Hem: le point a rabbatre sou la mains (the

 exterior looks almost like a running stitch)

Left verticle: combo stitch on the inside

Right verticle: whip stitch

Below pic: the seam along the underside of the cuff 

  shows a slip stitch, which doesn't really show at all.

*Update! Katie Jacobs has pictures of the original pinball on her blog. Click here for a really good close up and here for lots of pictures via flickr. I so wish I had seen the flickr pics before started! Such good close ups!

Back to the 18th Century

I have been so caught up in learning about the 1860's I have been neglecting my beloved 1700's. Sigh.

In the past month or so, I have put so much enthusiasm into learning about a new era, I put my 18th century projects on the back burner, which has totally come back and bitten me in the bum roll.

I keep forgetting all the things I need to get organized for the workshop in November. And yes, November is a long way off, but now that September is almost here I get reminded how fast time goes, and it sent me into an oh-my-god-soon-it'll-be-October frenzy. Yikes!

So out of the half-done pile came my blue worsted stays. Some time today was well spent hand-sewing eyelets into those while watching John Adams - gotta get inspired :)

Those are a must to finish because I want them for the Burnley & Trowbridge workshop. The stays I have now fit great, but they're not appropriate fabric.

Next up will be a new wool petti and a bedgown. It was suggested you wear a bedgown for the workshop between fittings. You could also wear a t-shirt, but where's the fun in that?

I was browsing trough the stash - nothing sparked. I was looking online - too indecisive. I do have some blue print that's cute, but it doesn't say much. Eh. So I jumped on the bandwagon (thanks Lauren, American Duchess, and Jen, Festive Attyre) and went to Lowes for some Waverly chintz drapes. Can I say, I was a little skeptical before I felt the fabric ($20 for almost two yards - too good to be true, right?), but it's fantastic! Polished, 100% cotton, with a perfect print. I'm in love. 

Lowe's chintz, blue on blue floral print, red wool under it all.
Brown and dark blue silk.

I did find some brown silk in the stash that I was debating on for a more upscale bedgown, but the only silk bedgowns I have come across have been quilted, and I just don't have that kind of time right now. 

For the petticoat, I have some red wool, but I'm not really feeling red, so I'm browsing different color options. Maybe light blue, maybe pink or yellow. I'm looking into prints and paintings to get some ideas. Any thoughts? I suppose I'll want a new apron, too... Another can of worms to be opened :)

Lastly, that blue silk in the picture. 

I bought some blue silk to take with for the mantua making workshop. One in a billion chance (because that's how much stuff I order online), they sent the wrong color. I would send it back, but it's almost not worth the bother. India seems quite far. 

It's a beautiful dark blue, kind of a royal blue, but I'm thinking it might be a little TOO dark for your average 18th century American gown, which is what I'm sure we will be making. I have seen loads of light blue silk gowns in paintings, however, like the one below. I love the green trim!

Unless Felicity's dress counts as a first hand resource. Nope? Bummer.

Has anyone come across anything this shade of blue? Is it worth getting another color silk to have something that's well documented? I need some opinions, fellow seamstresses.

Hope everyone is having a great start to the week! Xx, C.

The guts are the best part.

So these are the beginnings of a new pair of stays. Blue worsted wool, lined with linen and completely hand sewn with linen thread (60/2). The bones are 1/4 inch cane.

I used JP Ryan's half boned stays pattern. I always like the JP Ryan patterns. I had to alter this pattern a little to make it smaller and even with the changes it still went together beautifully and quickly.

For comparison, below is a picture of the inside of an extant pair of stays from the 18th century.

[18th Century Stays]

Next will come cutting the tabs open, binding the edges and seams in leather and then lining the inside with a final layer of linen. The eyelet holes will be done up too.

I'm very excited for the result. This will be my first pair of stays that are made in an authentic way with all period correct materials. I have so fallen in love with hand sewing.