The best brests in Paris

It is said that Philippe Conticini makes the best Paris-Brest in Paris. Indeed, a visit to La Patisserie des Reves reveals a master has been at work.

But what about Jacques Genin? His Brests are nothing to sneeze at.

It was essential to plunge into this delicious debate. A Paris-Brest is a rare treat. I've had only a handful in my life. Having two in one week was pure hedonism.

Conticini's creation is six petite pieces of choux pastry strong together like an exquisite necklace of pearls. Except inside each puff is a thick and rich, decadent crème pralinèe. In other words: heaven.

Jacques Genin takes a little more liberty with his crème pralinèe (for some, bigger is better, n'est-ce pas?) His pastry is a more traditional ring, dusted with hazelnuts.

Everyone has their own preferences and predilections. I would go for either man's brest. Conticini's is compact, refined, densely powerful. Genin's is light and airy, over the top wonderful. Both are wonderful specimens.

La Folie at La Patisserie des Reves

It’s true: craziness! As this lovely little baked good's name implies, it is sheer madness.

It may not look like much, standing there, properly lined up on the shelf with its peers.

But take it home and tear into it. Madness, I promise you!

The doughy, whipped brioche is densely construed and piped with thick vanilla pastry cream with just a titch of rum raisin.

All topped with praliné crumble and a touch of confectioner’s sugar.

I would kill to have a slice of Conticini’s 66-euro holiday buche.

But for two euro and some change, La Folie one of the best sweets—and craziest deals—I’ve had in a long time.

The best brest in Paris

They say here in France that a patisserier’s skills can be judged by just one dessert: the Paris-Brest. Which puts Philippe Conticini at the top of the choux-filled heap.

Six months ago, Conticini—who opened La Patisserie de Reves last year—was awarded the best Paris-Brest in the city. Two months ago, he opened a gorgeous salon de thé in the 16eme (Bon Marché shoppers arent’ the only ladies who lunch). The man is on a roll.

Of course it’s not all about the Paris-Brest (even if it is a little ring of heaven, with liquid praliné piped inside the hazelnut cream).

Beneath each individual glass-domed frigo is a mouth-watering, stomach-rumbling visual masterpiece.

Raspberry and lemon meringue tartes…


…chocolate and coffee éclairs….

…strawberries and cream.

His daring Saint-Honoré and dazzling Alliance.


Even his wee cookies are arresting.

Some of the delights dare not even be covered by casings.

Like this—the biggest brioche ever.

Rivaled only by the enormous madeleines.

And if you’re worried that you will put away an entire tarte or cake yourself, don’t worry. Individuels!


And a lovely tearoom and terrace in which to indulge.


Best of Paris? You bet.

New pastries to dream about

Six months after Philippe Conticini opened his exquisite and inspiring Patisserie des Reves in the posh seventh arrondisement, there’s a new kid on the block. Two, actually.

Hugo & Victor, a mere two-weeks old, was opened by Guy Savoy alum, Hugues Pouget, and Sylvain Blanc. And while Conticini’s conceit of displaying his modern-twist-on-the-classics cakes and pastries under glass domes was a PR dream, expect no less at this swanky new patisserie.

With its deep blue and gold facade, the storefront appears very contemporary and British, with clean, well-lit displays of chocolate, macarons and raw ingredients. I literally stopped in my tracks when I saw it. The treats inside are equally mesmerizing.


On one wall, desserts made with seasonal ingredients—pineapple, litchi, blood orange—are displayed. On another, the classics: chocolate, vanilla, caramel. With both, the raw ingredients are loaded up in glass cylindrical vases—clever in this day and age where we want to better understand where our food is coming from.

Then the real fun begins. Each ingredient is incorporated in three treats. “Victor” is the traditional character; “Hugo” is more avant-garde. So if you have a hankering for pineapple, you might opt for a classic millefeuille with chunks of pineapple nestled between the creamy layers.

Or you can get a contemporary combination of roasted and diced pineapple jelly with lime zest in a glass. Or you can get the irresistible looking pineapple-flavored bonbons. And, if you want to go all the way with your decadent tendencies, they offer a wine or champagne accompaniment. Genius.

How long before you’re hearing about Hugo & Victor everywhere you turn? Start counting sheep backwards. It will be before you reach…

40, boulevard Raspail 7eme

Dreamy pastries

La Patisserie des Reves really is the stuff you dream about.


Philippe Conticini’s new patisserie opened while I was in New York (eating cookies), and it’s rich, gorgeous, inviting, exquisite and inspiring—it’s Willy Wonka meets Cartier, and surely going to become the city’s next sweet addiction (or at least mine).

The cakes are magic, and, under the glass domes, it’s as fun picking the perfect treat as it is window shopping in Place Vendome.



Some are classics, like the lemon meringue, apple crumble and tarte tatin.




Some are clearly the work of a pastry master—they are divine inspiration. The chocolate éclairs and Saint-Honoré are like none other you’ll find in the city.




There are also viennoiseries—chausson aux pommes, brioche, financiers—for more modest pleasures.


With exquisite cakes like these, Pierre Hermé, watch your back!

93 rue de Bac
7eme