Okay I've digested the Hedi Slimane debut for Saint Laurent or whatever he wants to call it. I have also read the reviews, the blogs, and of course the Twitfit between Cathy Horyn and the rather ornery Mr. Slimane. My initial reaction to the show was surprised as everything was so retro. Although I am a purveyor of vintage clothing, when it comes to 21st century fashion, I want it to look 21st century. As I've further considered the show, I have found it to be too much of a greatest-hits collection styled skinny. The clothes really looked like the way girls who shop at Decades already dress: they snatch a vintage YSL blouse and wear it with a pair of crazy skinny jeans, epic heels, and often with statement necklace and hat. It was very LA-LA land. In that sense it was very successful...for any designer other than someone of Hedi Slimane's calibre and repute. It would be an acceptable show for a contemporary brand who wants to reference 70s boho YSL and make it look like something to be sold at Barneys Coop. I guess I just expected Slimane to manipulate the revered YSL codes into something all together fresh. Dare I say, the way Raf Simons did in a very short period of time for his Dior Couture debut.
The good thing about the collection is that all the savvy fashionistas out there will be wise to come to Decades and pick up the original inspirations which will be much less expensive than the Slimane-Laurent prices (they are quite high and buyers who have called me to consult on the saleability of the collection are in a quandary: do they buy these expensive clothes that look like they come from Decades?). I liked everything in the collection because it reminds of Decades. Buyers may be confused, but the looks are good looks, they are just looks we have seen worn by folk a lot over the last ten years. Just let me dress you and let's let Mr. Slimane take his time to get his feet wet. I didn't like Ricardo Tisci's first collections at Givenchy. Now I love them! Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo didn't work for me initially at Valentino, but now I think they are doing a splendid job. I guess the lesson to be learned: if you are going to reinvent the wheel with re-branding then the expectation is your collection must follow suit and be ground breaking. I think had Slimane not made such drastic moves and more smoothly transitioned, perhaps the reviews would have been more kind. I am excited to see where he goes for fall. Slimane is super talented and I love wearing his original men's looks for YSL from 1999. I say give him a few seasons, before we throw him under the bus. However, I would suggest Francois Pinault has a talk with the Saint Laurent press team. Sounds like they are amateurs!
In the meanwhile, check out the Slimane and the
Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture original. You choose.
-Cameron
Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture chiffon lurex blouse, c. 1970's. Will fit size 2 and 4. SOLD
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