Sewing Messenger Bags

I'd been obsessed with making messenger bags this past week.  Well, I should say I was more obsessed with trying to figure out the best way to do it than the actual bags themselves.

Based on the following must haves for me, I drafted the pattern and made the design.
1.  Not too many compartments. I hate bags with lots of compartments.  I'm too unorganized that I'd spend forever looking into different pockets for things.
2.  But, separate pockets for the 3 things I use the most, phone, keys, and wallet.
3.  Absolutely a zipper at the top that closes up the bag so I can just throw things into the bag.

So I designed a big pocket at the front that can be easily accessed under the top flap. A line is sewn down the middle to divide it into one pocket for keys, one pocket for phone. The bag itself has a zipper at top, and an inner pocket for wallet. Rather than rectangular looking bags, I also decided I wanted more rounded corner ones

The first bag was made with yellow canvas material.  I was happy, but when I was top stitching the zippers I realized another way to streamline the steps.  To prove me theory would work, I made the Chevron bright color one.  Because it took me some thinking during the making process, it didn't go super fast like I thought I would.  I then went on to make the third one with patterned upholstery fabric which came about smoothly with the patterns and steps finalized.  

I love my bags.  My favorite one is probably the zigzag bright colors one because I just love the fabric pattern. I totally did't need these many bags, but I simply couldn't stop making them.

Finished Seams, A Linen Jacket

This time, I was rather pleased with myself even if the fit wasn't perfect.

I loved peter pan collars after making the last 2 shirts so I decided to improve the collars and make a linen jacket using the same peter pan collars.  Immediately, I thought of the yellow medium weight linen that had been sitting in my stash for years.

I know there are plenty of patterns of the same style out there, but I love drafting patterns. Because I learn the most through mistakes, so I'm generally not too obsessed with having perfect pattern each time.  It is also an excuse for my laziness about making a muslin first. I went ahead and drafted my imperfect pattern.

I have drafted princess seams before, and one thing I learned was that simply cutting away the dart area, the 2 pieces that made up the front do not line up at armhole when sewing them together. I used my daily walk in the woods with Ritchie to churn over puzzles and problems like this in my head. During the walk of the day I was going to draft my pattern, I realized rather than trying to research and figure out the math, the easiest way was simply cut away the darts, then tape the 2 pieces together and redraft the arm scythe and rest of the front pieces.  That solved my problem.

Because the collars on the previous shirts kind of stick up a bit, This time I modified it by straighten out the neck edge a little instead of the original method of tracing the neck lines with front and back taped at the shoulder and draw the collars edge few followed the same neck arc at few inches away.

One more crazy idea that came to me during the walk was skip lining and finish the seams with Hong Kong seams. I'd never done that before, or any other nice seams, and I was super excited. I Googled and searched Pinterest on how to do Hong Kong finish, and it looked simple enough.  I was very blessed with my ignorance on how time consuming this would be.  I proceeded with cutting my bias strips with a paisley cotton I had.

Next day I had another inspiration during my walk, rather than doing the nice finish after sewing everything together, I could serge all the edges of individual pieces first followed by sewing bias tapes over the edges, then sew the pieces together.  I didn't give myself room to think about if I had to re-fit or re-sew. Fortunately everything came together nicely albeit the fit wasn't 100% perfect.

One major problem came up, I forgot to add in seam allowance for the sleeves in the pattern! They were tight for my comfort that they had to be taken apart, re-draft, and re-sewn.  I ended up over-compensated a little on the second draft and the sleeves came out a bit wide especially at the cuff.  But that didn't bother me enough to make me want to redo them.

All in all I was very happy with how the jacket turned out.  The collars came out like I wanted. They are more subtle than real big peter pan collars, hence a bit more grown up look.

First lesson learned: after putting all the numbers on paper, add seam allowance to the numbers before drafting the pattern.
Second lesson learned; next time, allow more than 1/2" of seam allowance on Hong Kong finish so I wouldn't have to do it so carefully.
Third lesson learned: test out bias strips for the right width before cutting them all so I wouldn't have to sew them so carefully.

I vowed to make another one that will improve on these:
1. sleeves that are still easy to wear but not as loose.  (I really don't like too fitted sleeves with woven material.)
2. better drafting on the arm scythe  so the sleeves and front are more fitted.
3. better princess seams for a slightly more fitted look..

Not super excited with sleeves don't hang straight when wearing, but, I am also not super excited about drafting and cutting 2 pieces for each sleeve like what more tailored jackets have.

More Wallets and How To Make Them

So I'm addicted to making the wallets.  I made 2 more for myself, which is very silly, it's not like I really have a lot of money to carry around.

I decided to write down notes, and drew out some diagrams for future use, because I have a suspicious feeling that once I get more magnetic buttons, I'm going to make quite a few more of them.
I did try to stop by the local fabric store to get some more of those buttons, but gusess what, the store is gone!  Just like so many business is this town... one disappearing after another. Now there is no fabric store in this town.

After all the time I put in on the notes, I thought it would be a waste if I just make a few more wallet myself, so I should share it with people on my blog.  Yeepee, my first sewing tutorial/pattern/whateveryoucallit.

So here it is, Folding Wallet.

• Finished measurements when folded: 3 3/4" wide x 4 3/4" tall.
• I used cotton fabric for everything, and fusible fleece. 
• Nice thing about making this is that I can use up the little scrap pieces I've saved.
• Besides fabric and thread, I used one 1/2" magnetic button. 

Fabric Cutting Guide
Cover, Lining, and Fusible Fleece:  5 1/2" x 8" each

Pockets
A:  5 1/4" x  8"
B:  5" x 8"
C:  5" x 8"
D:  7 1/4" x 8"
alternately, you can just use a single fabric and cut 8" x 21")

Button Tab
Fabric:  3" x 3 1/2"
Fusible Fleece:  1 1/2" x  3"

Instruction

*Seam Allowance = 1/4"
I used my serger for most seams except top stitching and straight lines. And of course the serge stitches can be replaced with zigzag stitches.

Pocket

1. With RS facing each other, serge (or sew) fabric A to fabric B along long edge.

2. With RS facing each other, serge the other long edge of fabric B to one long edge of fabric C.

3. With RS facing each other, serge the other long edge of fabric C to one long edge of fabric D.

4. Fold the piece like an according starting with fabric A edge:
Fold fabric A at 3". Fold at seam. Fold fabric B at 2 1/2" above the folded seam. Fold at seam. Fold fabric C at 2 1/2 above the folded seam. Fold at seam. Fold fabric D at 2 1/5" above folded seam.  Match the other edge of fabric D with bottom of fabric A. (Alternately, you can make it easier on yourself and just take a credit card and fold the fabric by placing it between folds.  This works well especially if you only use one long strip of 8"x 21" of one piece of fabric.)
Press.

5. Stitch a straight line along the center of pockets.

Cover and Lining

6.  Iron fleece to Lining.

7.  Serge along top long edge of the Lining/Fleece.
     Also, serge along the top edge of Cover.

8.  Sandwich the Cover, Pockets, and Lining/Fleece as such: Place at the bottom the Lining/Fleece (RS facing up.)  Then place the Pockets on top of Lining (RS facing up, and mach the bottom long edge to Lining.)  Then place the cover on top of Pockets (WS facing up.)

9.  Serge along the 2 short sides and the bottom long edge, leave the top edge open.

10.  Pull the wallet right side out, so the RS of cover is facing up.  Press.

11.  Secure the magnetic button onto the RS of Cover at about 2 1/2" from bottom edge, and 1" from side edge on the right.  Make sure only secure button through the Cover and Lining/Fleece, but NOT the pockets.

12.  Fold the top edges of Cover and Lining/Fleece about 1/2" inward. Press.

13.  With Cover racing up, top stitch 1/8" along the 4 edges of wallet.

Button Tab

14.  Serge along one short edge of Tab.

15. With RS facing each other fold the Tab in half lengthwise.

16.  Iron the Tab Fleece onto one half of the tab, matching at the non-serged short edge.

17.  Secure the other half of magnetic button onto the RS of Tab at the side with fleece ironed on.  Button placement is about 1" from the short edge and 7/8" from bottom long edge.

18.  With RS facing each other, serge the tab on all 2 edges (the long edge, and the short non-serged edge._

19.  Pull the Tab right side out. Press.

20.  Fold the open edges about 1/2" inward. press.

21. Top stitch along all 4 edges at 1/8" from edges.

22. Sew the tab onto wallet along the top stitching line at the left side of wallet.

23.  Press.

Summer Sewing Continues

I'm definitely in the groove of sewing this summer.
After the dresses I made 2 weeks ago, I made another shirt and two skirts. Talk about instant gratifications, especially comparing to knitting!

For the shirt I used New Look pattern 6407, and I made version E.

I don't know what I was thinking. I cut the pattern in size 10. I figured the finished bust measurements sounded right. WRONG! Being so used to thinking sizes in terms of knits, it didn't occur to me that zero ease has no give with woven fabric.

After sewing up, I realized it was way, way too tight, no room for buttons, yikes.  To remedy that, before I sew on the sleeves, I ripped the side-seams and added 1 1/2" strips between the front and the back.  The result?  I'm so proud of myself, these strips worked out perfectly. I had to re-cut the sleeves to add the extra 1 1/2" width simply by extending the 2 ends.  Next time, I'll stick with size 14.

The fabric was cotton.  I bought it at Mills End in Carson City.  I visited Mills End years ago and I'd totally forgotten that place until I started sewing up a storm this summer.  I went there coupla weeks ago and found a bunch of lovely prints in cotton, rayon, all ranged $3 - $5 per yard. This shirt was about $5 worth of fabric.

Yeepee.  I love bargains. I love the idea of being able to find inexpensive materials to make things. It is perhaps more out of necessity than anything. I love looking at expensive yarns and expensive fabric just as much as anyone else.  But the thrill of being able to make a shirt for $5 + $1.5 zipper + $1.5 buttons is only comparable to making a sweater under $30.

Oh and by the way I bought a few patterns when Joann had a sale of $1 for any Butterick patterns earlier this week.  I could feel my heart beating faster when I saw that at the store, and I only wanted a zipper, but I walked out of there with 4 patterns in addition to the zipper.

I actually made skirt #1 before I made the shirt.  It was really easy sewing. The only part where I took a deep breath first was putting in the zipper.  But I'm getting better at it.
The pattern for skirt #1 was New Look 6843, and I made version D.

Size 14 came out perfectly.  No alterations or mods. Simple A-line skirt.
Fabric was cotton with lycra that I bought years ago at Berkeley.  The fabric store was like Mills End filled with discount fabrics. The store located at where Straw into Gold used to be on San Pablo Ave. Print of the fabric was in Japanese style, really cute. The fabric unfortunately didn't soften up much as I'd hoped after washing.

I really, really love the shape of the skirt, not too flared out and the length came out perfect.  It was exactly the kind of skirt I like.

Then there was skirt #2.  The pattern was New Look 6106.  Yes, I seemed to have better luck with New Look patterns as far as sizing goes.  If I choose the right size, they tend to fit better on me than some other brands.

Size 14 came out really good, a bit looser than skirt #1.  Initially I felt size 12 might've been a better fit, but next morning when I tried it on.  It felt fine.
This one was way cute with pockets!!!  I love pockets in skirts.

Fabric was this wonderfully crazy print cotton with very slight stretch. I got it from Mills End for $4 a yard and I used about 1  1/4 yard. Score!

Did I mention pockets? Did I mention how much I love the pockets?
The pattern was very easy even with the pockets, and instruction for lapped zipper was very clear.

The skirt shape ended up a bit too triangular for my liking so I made a little mod by taking in 1" at each side of either side-seam and connect that with hip area right below pockets. So the circumference of the hem ended up 4" smaller.

I still feel like the skirt is a bit fuller than what I'd really prefer (like skirt #1.)   But it's a cute skirt nonetheless.

Next week I am gonna try combining skirt #1 shape with the pockets and yoke of skirt #2 to make my perfect skirt.

Sewing Dresses For the Summer

In the past few years I"d knitted one dress every summer. Well, I'm still not yet in the groove of summer knitting, yet I'm getting impatient of just sitting there and knit wool. I dusted off my sewing machine and made coupla dresses.

First one was inspired by an episode in George Gently that I watched in marathon via Netflix while knitting "Undecided."  If you have not seen the show, it's first off a very good series of British detective show, my favorite, and the setting is in the 60s.  In the episode of Season 4: Goodbye China, I spotted a beautiful dress that is green and silky material, and of course in the 60s style. I really, really wanted that dress. When I was shopping for pattern and fabric, I decided to go with linen/rayon blend.

The pattern I ended  up using was New Look 6824.  I made some modifications.
The pre-planned mods were:

• changed pencil skirt to A line.
• changed dart on skirt to pleats on the side. 

The mods after sewn up were:

• lowering neckline.
• recut neck band to shorter length.
• made pleats to the otherwise sticking out too much, space age looking sleeves. 

Of course it's not exactly looking like the one in the show, the one in the show had no neckband nor sleeves, but otherwise, similar 60s style.

  

Being total self-taught with sewing, I'm not a good seamstress at all, but I did take my time.  The one thing that could be better was hemming the armhole area. I need to learn how to do a better job of hemming there.  But I'm so proud that I did the invisible zipper right.  I did have to rip and redo that part, simply because I mis-judged and placed the zipper too low without extending it onto the neck band. 

I really like this pattern, the only thing that absolutely needed alteration for me were the neck area and the sleeves. The neckline was a bit high for good proportion, and the neckband was too tall, together the dress looked a bit like I'm in a star-trek show or something. This version of sleeves sticked out too much that the dress would fit right in an 80's music video. Otherwise, the fit was perfect.  

I LOVE the fit.  I really do. I cut the body in size 12, and the skirt in size 18.  The reason for larger skirt size was only because the pleats I wanted at the side required more width for folding than the darts in the pattern. Otherwise I think the same size skirt would've been fine. I did not have to alter anything else for fit. The dress turned out fitting but not tight at all, just the way I wanted.

............................

Then I decided to make another dress. This time a quicker sew. I bought this synthetic knit fabric a while back when Joann's had a sale. I couldn't resist the print. And I knew I wanted to make a dress with it some day.

The pattern was Simplicity 3506. Since the fabric was was knit, I didn't use zippers.  I still cut the back into 2 pieces as per pattern, which I could've cut in one, but I didn't have enough fabric for cutting 2 large pieces on fold.  

It was an easy and quick sew. I did it in one evening. Everything was done exactly as the pattern, except for no hemming (gasp!) I shortened the dress pattern by 3" based on reading the finished dress measurements.  It turned out to be not the wisest move. I ended up loving the length of pre-hemming. Fortunately for me, the material was non-fraying at all. I kinda liked it un-hemmed (so scandalous), a lighter swing at the bottom. I had the same problem as previous dress, I did a rather poor job on armhole hemming.  Well, at least it was not really visible.  

When I finished it late at night, I wasn't completely sold on the dress, even with the dart at the back and slight waist shaping at sides, the dress still looked boxy. I added a sash/belt, and liked it better.  But next morning, when I tried it on in much brighter day light, I ended up really liking it a lot, mostly due to the material and the print. I like how light and summery it feels. Even if it's synthetic material.  It's so easy to wear and super comfortable, totally up my alley as far as a dress goes.  

I'm hoping to get more sewing done.  They are like instant gratifications compared to knitting.