Liberated Checkerboard Block

This liberated variation of the classic 16-patch block is easy to cut and sew . . . as long as you take care to keep things organized.

The blocks are made two-at-a time, beginning with 2 large squares. The finished size of your liberated checkerboard block will be 2-to-2 1/2 inches smaller than the these squares.

For the Block Lotto in July 2011 (and these examples), we used 10 inch squares to start: one white and one solid or tone-on-tone (TOT) print in a medium to dark value with high contrast.

CUT FABRICS

1. Place fabrics on the cutting mat, one on top of the other with edges aligned.  Both fabrics must be right sides up.
   
2. Vertical cuts: make 3 straight cuts from the top edge to the bottom edge.  The sections do not have to be even and the cut lines may be as slanty as you decide to make them. There should be at least one inch between the cuts and at the outside edges.  I pulled the sections apart so that you could see them--you don't need to do that and can leave them just as they are on your cutting mat.
   
3. Horizontal Cuts: Make three straight cuts from left edge to right edge. If it makes it easier for you, you can rotate the mat (or walk around the table), but avoid moving the cut fabric pieces.  The same 1-inch rule of thumb applies.  

     

PREPARE TO SEW

1. Create the checkboard by swaping top and bottom fabrics of every other piece.
   
2. Carefully move to your sewing area–because these irregular shaped pieces will only go together ONE WAY, carefully move them close to your machine.  I used a 12-inch square ruler as a platter to carefully transfer my pieces from cutting table to sewing table.

      

SEWING THE BLOCK
 
You now have the pieces for two Liberated Checkerboard blocks.  Sew them together as a 16-patch.  Here’s the approach I used to keep everything organized and correctly oriented–I’m a little dyslexic and so I need to be VERY careful or something will get turned around.

	1. Get Organized Carefully lay out the stacked pieces (for two blocks) next to your sewing machine to prepare for assembly.
	2. Begin Working Top-to-Bottom, Left-to-Right Flip each of the top fabrics in the second column, onto the first column, like turning a page in a book.
	3. Chain Sew the Pairs Sew the pairs together, from Top-to- Bottom. After you've sewn the pieces from the "top" block, repeat the process for the second block. Leave the four pairs of each block connected (by thread)—only snip the thread between blocks.
	4. Press after every set of seams I found it easiest to press after the pieces in each column are sewn. Always press toward the non-white fabric–it will make matching the seams easier later. This photo shows the BACK after the first set of seams have been sewn and pressed.
	5. Layout the Block with Sewn Pieces Put the sewn, and pressed section back in place in your block layout.
	6. Continue to Work Left-to-Right, Top-to-Bottom "Turn the pages" of the pieces in the third column and place them on top of the corresponding piece to the left. Chain sew these four seams as before. Add the third column to the second block of your pair.
	7. Press and Repeat Press the second set of seams and Repeat with the last column of squares. Your block will now consist of 4 sections (rows) that are held together at the intersections by the thread left in place from chain piecing.
	8. Sew the “rows” together Fold the top row down. If the seam intersections are connected by the thread from your chain piecing, you may find, as I did, that you do not need pins to accurately sew the seam, matching the intersections. Stitch and repeat for each row of both blocks until your checkerboard block PAIR is done.

You may decide to square-up all your blocks and trim to the same size. For the block lotto, we're sending the blocks UNTRIMMED and allowing the winner to decide how he or she will use them.

Here's a look at how 35 liberated checkerboard blocks randomly arranged  might look--with block photos from Béa, Cathy, Cheri, Ginny, Jennifer, Julie, Kate, Kathie, Linda, Linnea, Mary Jane, Michelle and Toni.

Thanks to everyone for the great block photos that made this virtual quilt possible.  If you make a quilt or other project from this liberated checkerboard block, I'd love to see it.

Liberated Basket Block

My approach for making this liberated basket block once again starts with a large rectangle of background fabric into which you "draw" the design of the block with your rotary cutter.

The finished size of my example block is 6 1/2 inch wide by 8 1/2 inches tall (to finish at 6 x 8).

FABRICS

I began with a background rectangle that was 8 inches x 10 inches, some scraps for the basket–try to use at least 5 different fabrics–and a small amount of a coordinating tone-on-tone fabric for the basket base and handle.

For the June 2010 Block Lotto, we'll be using yellow or gold background fabrics; red tone-on-tone prints or solids for the handle and base; and the quilter's choice of scraps for the body of the basket.

Remember, you can click any of the photos for a larger image.  All the images (with directions in the descriptions) can be found in my Flickr photoset Liberated-Style Basket Step-by-Step.

MAKING THE BLOCK

1. Position the background fabric on your cutting mat so that it's taller than it is wide. (aka "profile" orientation.
   
2. You'll be drawing your block with your rotary cutter and a straight edge–it might be a ruler, but you don't need to measure anything.  Make 2 horizontal cuts.  The top one defines the top of your basket and the space you'll have for the handle.  The bottom one defines the height of the base of the basket. The scrappy, pieced basket will be as tall as the middle section. Pull apart the sections to make it easy to work on each one separately.
   
    
   
   
3. Draw the basket shape by making two angled cuts in the center section to define the basket shape you'd like.  They don't have to be symmetrical (mine aren't).
   
4. Remove the basket shape and reassemble your background pieces, but don't throw it away–we'll come back to that in a bit. Slide the three sections back together–this will give you an idea of how your block looks so far.
   
    
   
   
5. Make two vertical cuts to draw the basket base shape.  The top of the base should align with the bottom of the basket. Remove the basket base you've just cut.  It becomes the pattern.
   
   
   
6. Using the base you just drew with your rotary cutter and removed, cut a base from your handle/basket fabric.  Be sure that both fabrics are right side up so that the new basket base will fit in the space you created in the background.
   
7. Assemble the bottom of the block by sewing the two background pieces to the basket base.  Press the seams toward the base.
   
    
   
   
8. For the basket, you'll need a collection of small scraps.  Try to use at least 5 fabrics in your basket. Use the basket shape you created as the foundation for piecing the scraps into a basket. Make CERTAIN that you foundation is RIGHT SIDE UP and you are sewing your scraps to the RIGHT SIDE.  In this example, I started with a triangle and added strips log cabin-fashion. You could also use this as a foundation for straight strings. If you have crumb blocks or string yardage, cut it using the basket shape as your pattern–remember to keep both the pattern and the pieced fabric right sides up when cutting. Be sure that you continue to sew 1/4 inch seams as you add scraps to the foundation.
   
    
   
   You can create new lines as you add pieces and trim after the seam is sewn.
   
    
   
    
   
   
9. After you have covered your basket foundation with scraps, turn it over and trim your piece from the back, using the foundation as a guide.
   
    
   
   
10. Your basket shape will fit perfectly back into the background for the middle third of the block. Press the seams toward the background.  NOTE: Depending upon the angle of the sides of your basket, you may need to slide the background fabric so that the point hangs over the edge to make sure the top and bottom edges are aligned at the point where the 1/4 inch seam will be made.
    
     
    
    
11. Attach the basket section to the base section by sewing the bottom two thirds of the block together, aligning the basket bottom with the base top.
    
    
    
    
12. The basket handle is cut on the bias, 1.5 inches wide, from the same fabric as the base.  (I probably should have pressed that fabric first, huh?)
    
13. Fold the basket handle in half, WRONG sides on the inside, and stitch (a normal 1/4 inch seam).  The thread color doesn't matter because this seam will be hidden.
    
     
    
    
14. Trim the seam to approximately 1/16 inch (eyeball it). Roll the handle/tube you've created so that the seam is in the center.  Press the handle piece flat.  The seam (and seam allowance) will now be hidden.
    
     
    
    
15. When deciding on the handle placement, keep in mind the finished size of the block--8 1/2 inches tall in this example.  It may not seem like that bias strip will bend . . . but it will. The handles may be as tall or short as you decide, but they should have a nice curve.  Use a ruler and keep in mind the finished size of your block when deciding how tall your handle will be. 
    
16. Initially, just make sure that the outside edge of the basket handle is smooth and pin it in place until you sew it down.
    
     
    
    
17. Stitch down the outside of the handle, by hand or machine. It can be machine stitched using a straight stitch very close to the edge, blind stitch or blanket stitch.  Use thread in a matching color or invisible mono-filament.
    
18. After the outside of the handle is attached, take it back to the iron and gently press and manipulate and the inside edge of the handle until it lies nice and flat. Then, stitch down the inside edge. Trim the bottom edge of the handle even with the background fabric.
    
     
    
    
19. Position the top third over the bottom, centering the basket handle and sew that last seam!
    
     
    
    
20. Now trim the block to size.  In this case it was 6-1/2 inches wide by 8-1/2 inches tall.
    
    

Here are four blocks, made with very different proportions and different techniques for the scrappy center unit.  Mix it up or stick with the proportions that look best to you, then fill your baskets with scrappy goodness.



For more great examples of these liberated basket blocks, check out the blocks being made for the Block Lotto. You can also see some of the blocks made by the sneak peekers in my flickr photo stream, tagged liberated basket quilt block.

If YOU make a quilt or other project using this block, I'd love to have a photo for the new Gallery page.