New Year - New Knit

A new vintage knit, from the May 1935 edition of Stitchcraft. 

Called Square Yoke, Flared Sleeves.

I was so eager to photograph it I took a pic before sewing on the buttons.

I went for simple mother of pearl ones.

The wool used for the original was Paton's Super Brindle, which I had never heard of before. It was a little tricky to work out how to substitute. The needles used were 3mm, 3.25mm, 3.75mm and 4 mm. Tension required was one pattern repeat (9 sts), to 1.5 inches. It didn't look like a dk wool in the photograph, but more like a 4 ply. I did my tension swatch with Jamieson & Smith's 2 ply jumper wool, which I find knits to a true vintage 4 ply. It worked well, so I cast on and got going.

It knit up pretty quickly, and was a simple, but still interesting enough pattern to keep me from getting bored. It was knitted straight without any armhole shaping, the yoke left on a holder and worked after shoulders were joined. The sleeves are sewn on flat before any other sewing up is done. Lots of steam and pressing, especially the lace part of the sleeves, to get that flare. The only really annoying part was the decreasing on the yoke, which is not symmetrical. (The reason the buttons were added?)

As you may have noticed, I took these photos myself, in the mirror, so they leave a lot to be desired.

I have realised another reason I love to knit these vintage jumpers is the detective work that goes into it. Trying to find the perfect yarn, the perfect tension, the perfect length. Mine has turned out shorter than the original, but it sits on my natural waist, so it is fine. I think it is actually a teensy bit snug, and that is because I didn't go up to the 4mm needles, but stuck with the 3.75mm ones, as these are what gave me the correct tension. That would explain why I only needed 6 ounces! Still, better than horribly baggy.

Theodora.

The Jumper on the Cover - Stitchcraft October 1937

The moment I saw the cover of this Stitchcraft, I knew I wanted to knit it. I could see it was done in 'thick' wool, but it was also very flattering. Win win. Quick knitting, warm, and not too bulky. And finished in time for winter.

It is only the second long sleeved jumper I have ever knitted, so I imagine it will get lots of wear. I was so impatient to wear it, I finished sewing it up on the tube to the British Library, and changed into it while I was there. I did get a few funny looks in the loo, as there were still a couple of ends sticking out. Thankfully, I met Caroline there (The Sunny Stitcher), and she kindly sewed them in for me.

Between the rain showers this week, I got my husband to take some quick pics of the jumper in our garden.

The original yarn suggested was 'Totem' by P&B. The tension required was 16 stitches to 10cm, which meant a nice aran weight yarn. I actually had some Patons Classic Wool Worsted that I'd found in the States last year, but only 4 balls. I was sure it wouldn't be enough, but as they were 100g balls, at 192m each, I thought I'd take my chances.

And, as you can see, it was enough. I have possibly five or six metres left. I am often amazed at how economical vintage jumpers are with wool. That's why I'll keep on knitting them.

The front yoke has a very interesting diamond pattern, and is cast off straight across. The epaulettes and back yoke are knitted separately and sewn on. I have only one niggle - the sleeves are a tad too short. I should have measured them on myself before the armhole shaping. It pulls the shoulder down slightly.

I paired it with a new design called A Lacy Beret, which is an almost exact match to the shade of the jumper. I still can't tell whether it is blue or green, but I love it.

Theodora.

Summer knitting and crochet

We're back from our holiday in the US, and I'm being kept busy with the children on school holidays. My boy starts Year 1 in September. I am quite sad for him that his Reception year is over. It was just a whole year of pure play, with a bit of fun learning thrown in. Now it's down to the real thing.

I didn't get much knitting done on holiday, surprise, surprise. I did start a crochet hat from a 1930s Leach's Sixpenny Series booklet though. I found it on Ebay, but it was a booklet from the USA so it was much cheaper to post it there than here. It is a reproduction, but I am so pleased with it. It has a glossy cover, and the magazine is reproduced in its entirety. I shouldn't have taken it to the beach though, as it is full of sand now.

I made a start on the hat below, originally intended for raffia, I'm using crochet cotton in a teal shade.

The brim is worked back and forth, and turned up. The only thing I don't know about the booklet is the year it was published, but it looks like early 1930s to me.

I also picked up six balls of Copley's 'Excelsior' 3 ply wool in navy, that I found from a seller in the US. Which is odd, as Copley's was a British company. I have a few Copley's patterns which used Excelsior wool, so I shall have to go and find them to see if any take my fancy. 

We stayed in Kennebunkport, a pretty seaside town, so here I am outside the Clam Shack! My husband and I had a couple of evenings out, so we did the sensible thing and went thrift shopping. We bagged some bargains, including several pairs of sunglasses, a 1980s trouser suit, and a huge full-length faux fur coat! It was a challenge getting that on the aeroplane. I think I will do an outfit post on some of the things I bought. It will be fun, and ridiculous.

Dig for Victory

The kiddies had fun on the beach. My son particularly liked exploring in tide pools where he found a small lobster, a sea urchin and lots of hermit crabs.

I am on the sleeves of my Stitchcraft cardigan now. I am knitting them at the same time, as so often I get second sleeve syndrome, and this will hopefully rectify that.

I am off to Rainham Marshes with the children next week, to do some pond dipping and bug hunting!

Are you having a good summer?

Theodora.

Fashion on the Ration exhibition

I made it there eventually, and it was worth it. I didn't want to go in the school holidays, but I knew if I didn't go now, I would never get there. The Victoria line is closing at my end over August, so I will be trapped in the Stow.

Image IWM

I took my boy with me, who was a little angel, and enjoyed the whole thing.

My little fashion historian

Tank Boy

He loved seeing the Spitfire suspended from the ceiling, and a huge tank.

Image - the boy

I wore my only piece of CC41 clothing - a tailored navy jacket, with what I think are the original buttons. It is a little snug now, but looks just as good unbuttoned, and to go with it I wore my Victory Jumper and Moss Stitch beret.  I am also wearing a couple of brooches, a bakelite flower in a yellow/gold shade, and one of my knitted brooch patterns - A Posy of Violets. This is partly because they are pretty, and partly to hide the moth holes. Still, it hasn't done badly considering it is over 70 years old.

The exhibition is broken into six sections: Into Uniform, Functional Fashion, Make Do and Mend, Utility Clothing, Beauty as Duty and Peace and a New Look.

The Make Do and Mend section was a real lesson in recycling.

'Everyone should understand that it is patriotic to wear old clothes. That does not mean of course that you have to look shabby. You always look neat if you keep your clothes clean and well repaired.' (From Can I Help You on the Home Service, 10th March 1942).

There was a patchwork dress and housecoat made from scraps of fabric, lingerie made from silk maps originally used by the RAF, and lots of ingenious ways of re-invigorating a tired wardrobe. The poster that helped promote this was 'Go Through Your Wardrobe', (one of which I had to purchase).

The Utility Clothing section, which was given the name CC41, has a large and comprehensive collection of clothing from that time. Everything from underwear to a red wool overcoat, with dresses in myriad colours and fabrics.

Image IWM

Image Getty

If I hadn't known it was utility clothing, I would never have thought anything other than how chic and beautiful it was.

Beauty as Duty was a fascinating look at the lengths women had to go to, to look half decent. As makeup became scarcer and scarcer, women became increasingly desperate, and turned to homemade preparations like beetroot water to stain their lips red! I have to say this particular propoganda does rankle me a little. While the men were off fighting, women were told they just had to try and look pretty. In fact, it was their 'duty' to. Lots of cosmetics companies pushed this idea in their advertisements:

'We cannot leave men to fight this war alone. Total war makes heavy demands...The slightest hint of a drooping spirit yields a point to the enemy. Never must careless grooming reflect a 'don't care' attitude...we must never forget that good looks and good morale are the closest of good companions. Put your best face forward.' (Yardley advert, 1942).

On the knitting front, there was just one case, with some wools, patterns for knitted underwear, and some lovely fair isle knits, a matching beret and scarf.

I thoroughly enjoyed it, and the new look Imperial War Museum. I hadn't been since well before my boy was born, so it was great to see all the new galleries. The staff were on hand to give much needed expert knowledge on every exhibit in the museum. It was particularly helpful when my son asked where the bombs were put in the Spitfire, (I didn't know they sometimes carried them), and as I said this a chap jumped in and told him all about it. Marvellous.

On my knitting front, I am planning my holiday projects. We fly to the States on Monday for a week and having just had a phone call from the airline I was able to ask directly if I am allowed knitting needles and crochet hooks on board - and it was checked, and I am. Hooray!

You may have noticed I was working on a holiday piece, a crocheted beach T-shirt thingy from Inside Crochet magazine.

I went a bit crazy with my colour choices and it has turned into a bit of a beast. I have attached the front and back at the shoulders, so it looks a bit like a poncho at the moment, which would be fine if I were going to a Mexican fiesta. My husband said it would look great with a sombrero, and even better if I were holding a taco in each hand. Now I do intend to eat tacos on holiday, but perhaps not while wearing the 'Fiesta' poncho. Grrr. The original is so chic too. I might rip back the top which has closer spaced stripes and just continue with white. And do the sleeves in white.

Image Inside Crochet

I will be taking my Stitchcraft jumper, from the cover of March 1941.

I am on the second front now (ooh, sounds a bit military), just the sleeves to go. Oh, and the front bands, and the belt, and the collar. Then the sewing up. Hmm. I want to take some crochet projects too, but need some time to decide on the right ones. I might also take some yarn for projects I plan to sell at the next E17 Designers Fair in October. Some brooches and a beret or two. I will mainly be selling the patterns, but I think it might be nice to have the knitted pieces available too, for the non-knitters. I can only try.

What are your plans for the summer?

Theodora.

Summer, cotton and crochet

Ah, summer is here. I hope you're all enjoying it, because I'm suffering rather. Filthy weather. 37C? In London, that is not nice. On a beach somewhere, or lounging by a pool, but not in a humid city.

It makes knitting a little warm to say the least. So I just had to get out the cotton and get cracking on a warm weather top. It is inspired by the Bold Batwing Dress by Ruby McGrath of Frank&Olive Crochet, from the current issue (67), of Inside Crochet. I haven't bought Inside Crochet for months, as none of the projects grabbed me. I always look forward to it coming out every month, and make it a rule that at least two projects must interest me to justify buying it.

Image by Inside Crochet

This will be a combination of the Batwing Dress and another top Ruby McGrath's designs featured in issue 58 of Inside Crochet, The Rebekka Jumper.

Image by Inside Crochet

I had several balls of Sugar 'n Cream cotton from last summer when I was in the States. The colours were just mouthwatering, and I had bought them initially thinking I would make another blanket, or cushion cover. I'm so glad I didn't as this might actually get finished! It is an aran weight, so I'm using a 4.5mm hook. I'm not making it quite so oversized as this or the dress. The pattern is only given in one size, to be worn with varying degrees of positive ease. It is a very simple pattern, and therefore incredibly easy to size up or down. I've adapted mine for a 44 inch bust size, and it will be about 25 -28 inches long, depending on how much it drops, because of the weight of the cotton.

I'm also still working away on the cover jumper from the 1941 Stitchcraft magazine.

I've almost finished the back, and it's looking good.

I have lots of things happening at the moment, none of which I can reveal much about as they are in the early stages, but they are incredibly exciting, and are to do with knitting and vintage music. What else is there?

Theodora.

Oops, I did it again

I've been weak again - I started another jumper. It has been on my list since I saw it on the cover of a wartime Stitchcraft magazine.

I've mentioned before about my slight obsession with knitting magazines, and I acquired this one a little while ago. I have to report that I have been a good knitter recently and have not been on Ebay.

It is described as a honeycomb pattern, and is more challenging than anything I have done recently, and I have to say I am really enjoying it. A bit of cable, a twist, all interspersed with ribbing. I haven't got far yet, but I only started on Monday. I had two reasons for starting it: I have had this wool in my collection for a long time, saving it for a very special knitted. It is a very close colour match. I found the buttons at Spitalfields market, but I still haven't found a buckle, which is quite crucial. I've really got to hunt one down to match the buttons. The original uses buttons to tone with the bag, I think, but I don't think I'll make the bag.

The second reason for starting this was her pose and the turban she is wearing. It's just so chic. If I try to recreate that pose I might need to invest in some more blusher! Woah, that is all the rouge.

This is my new project bag. The moment I saw it at the E17 Art Trail, I knew I had to have it. I have one of the old row counters that is printed on it. It is from Dotty Designs, and can accommodate quite a hefty amount of wool! It lives next to my sofa now, in full view, not stuffed in the corner with all the lost souls of half-finished knits.

This week I went to an L7 gig in Camden town at The Electric Ballroom. It had been quite a long time since I went to a gig, and - wait for it - more than 20 years since I last saw L7! (I may as well come clean, it's not like I'm pretending to be a young flibbertigibbet.) It was at the now (in)famous 1992 Reading festival. L7 were wonderfully wild and already notorious, riding on the (short-lived) 3rd wave of feminist optimism, as was I. I wore a t-shirt by Silverfish emblazoned with the slogan 'Hips, Tits, Lips, Power'.

They did not disappoint. My friends and I got in just as L7 went on, deciding on one last quick drink in one of our old haunts The Good Mixer.

Err, I don't know what I'm doing here. Too many Snakebites.

I went with my two Riot Grrrl buds, Shanthi and Nese. We used to roam the streets of Camden Town on a regular basis, but Nese and I both have children, so now we mostly roam playgrounds and parks.

We shoved our way down near the front, and the crowd just boiled when they played 'Andres'. After a few songs, we looked guiltily at each other, and decided we needed a drink. Not that the pit was too much for us or anything!

Ah, it was fun being 'young' and carefree again. Glad I got the last Tube home, though.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday and a year of blogging

The end of April marked a year of consistent blogging for me. I actually started this blog in 2011, and managed four posts before I let it slide. I still don't really know what my blog is about, but the consistent theme seems to be vintage knitting, interspersed with the fun things I get up to.

Sometimes, I combine the two, like on a day out with the kiddies in coordinating colours. Here's another look at my Victory Jumper, this time with shoulder pads. They just finish it off. I'm so happy with the length of the sleeves, too, just above the elbow. This was a very popular length in the 1940s, as it made it a very wool-saving alternative to long sleeves when wool was in short supply.

The free pattern this month is from the 1950s, and it's a twinset. A longish polo-neck jumper paired with a dolman-sleeved bolero.

I just love her pose on the cover, and the bold blonde highlights at the front of her tousled, bobbed hair. Quite fancy the skirt and chunky bracelet, too!

It is a larger size than usual: 35-37 inch bust. Worked in 3 ply at a tension of 7.5 sts to the inch, it would be easy to substitute a 4 ply for a slightly larger size.

It will be on the Free Vintage Patterns page, too.

I went to another International Club at the end of April, with my friend Simone. We met for dinner, and headed over for an evening of 78s and a live band. There was a vintage photo booth set up in the basement by Hanson Leatherby, a rather marvelous photographer, who specializes in vintage-style photography. I haven't seen any of the shots from that night yet, but everyone had a great time doing it, so I'm sure they will be amusing.

Simone promised vintage knitwear, and she did not disappoint. Here, she's wearing the Miss Marple coat from A Stitch In Time Vol 2, in a very sensible brown shade.

Her jumper is from a 1930s edition of Stitchcraft magazine, in D.K weight wool. She describes the shade as Sea Green, which sounds very 30s to me. She was very kind and gave me some 3 ply wool, in the same sea green shade, and some in cream. I will give it a very good home. I'm still trying to decide what pattern to knit with it. I'm wearing Embroidered With Tiny Flowers from A Stitch In Time Vol 1. I love the enormous balloon sleeves.

We had some fun in the restored pub where the night is held.

Simones' long-suffering pal Gordon took these pics of us clowning around.

On to the next night of frivolity. I'm still wearing pink, and my hair is still curly. Just fast-forward fifty years.

Mixtape was all about the Yacht Rock last month, and it gave me the perfect opportunity to wear a turquoise jumpsuit and my 'Stevie Nicks' sparkly kimono blouse.

My hair got some serious scrunching action, and I wore it to one side with a hair-comb and copious amounts of hairspray to keep it there.

My partner in crime was Magnum P.I. (see what I did there). The 'tache was pretty impressive.

There was dancing and white wine spritzers were sipped langorously.

I hope this photo thing doesn't mess with your head, my phone did it automatically.

Last month wasn't all fun and games. We had to say goodbye to our beloved puss, Mr Tibbs. He'd been with us since 2006, wandering into our garden as a stray, and becoming a very willing house cat. He was an ace mouser, too.

I'm glad I got some pictures of him before he was put to sleep. He was very ill by the end, so skinny.

He lost that eye quite recently, as a result of an infection made worse by the FIV he had. He was such a loving cat, but he shared a house with two female cats who never took to him, so there was always tension. He had a good life though, I think.

Theodora.