Fedora - Back in Style

Back in Style

Fedora

Everything that was old is new again.

   Getting together with old friends last month, we were looking for somewhere hip and down home, at the same time. Steve and Sue are serious foodies and seasoned Bar Eaters, themselves, so we asked them to make the call. Their pick, Fedora; they were already regulars and we'd been talking about going since Patti popped into Jeffery's Grocery for lunch in March.

Cocktail Hour

Partner/manager Brian, the man behind the cocktails at Fedora.

   When we arrived Steve was already well into a Black Squirrel Old Fashion. Patti joined Sue in Songbirds and I went for a 445 North Locust, all very tasty. (Ya, I sampled everybody's.) Settling in, we tortured good natured Brian with a round of guess that Madison restaurant. A Wisconsinite, like many working in what if Gabe Stulman has his way may come to be called "Little Wisco." Reminds me of the Irish Bars I've frequented over the years. When you get to talking to the staff you discover they're all from a particular county in Ireland. Up the street, another bar, a different county.

Architect & Bartender Robert

   By now you have probably heard a bit about this place and the interesting story behind it. So I won't burden you with all the details, just bang the links if you want to know more. Fedora is not a reference to the hat but the owner, Fedora Dorato. The story of her passing the baton is a classic, with a happy ending. It wasn't easy for those who remember the way it was, but it seems Fedora made a wise choice. The Feast shot a series of videos during renovations, that are a nice introduction to Gabe and his crew if you haven't met them.

 

I'm guessing these are Little Wisco Specials.

Now, don't they look refreshing!

We were curious, but this evening it was wine.

With food like this, you can't go wrong with a good gigondas.

Energy and Informality

   It was a very busy Saturday night, everything was a blur including Gabe, when he swung by to say hello. Relaxed and sincere, he seems a genuinely nice guy, as does everyone who works there. Personal attention, hard work and smarts appear to be the Wisco formula for success. 

Gabriel Stulman

Then Came Dinner

Sharing the Carnage

   It was one big order for all of us. Things we had to try, specialties of the house, specials of the evening a truly communal meal. Starting with, chioggia beet salad with ricotta and candied pecans, a favorite of Steve's, (a man who didn't really like beets until he tasted this dish) and scapes in early spring season, very tasty, and crispy pigs head, a favorite of Sue's, also good if a bit on the rich side. (Patti didn't go for the concept). For the main course, (and I do mean main), roasted pork ribs, not the ones usually on the menu, which Steve says are phenomenal, (these were hardy if undistinguished), rock shrimp salad, and brussel sprouts with black bean sauce and bacon, house standards. Actually, hardy and inventive describes all of the fair. It will be interesting to see what Chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, (formerly Chef de Cuisine at Martin Picard's - Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal), does for a summer menu. Mehdi and Gabe gave Zagat's an interview that sets out Fedora's basic approach to cuisine.

Dessert

 

Chocolate cake like mom used to make. With a milk chaser.

Ok we're full.

Parting Shot

Photo by Frank

    Where does the time go? Seems as though we just sat down. There is nothing better than sharing a good meal with good friends, at the corner of the bar. We look forward to more Bar Eater adventures with Steve and Sue.

Looking Back

   For many Fedora (the bar) was an old friend and it is hard when old friends move on. Those afflicted with nostalgia might do better to think of this smart, new incarnation as, "daughter of Fedora" and look upon her with the delight held for the progeny of a legend.

Fedora

Everything that was old is new again.

Veritas et Venustas

 Veritas et Venustas

Veritas

    No doubt the Romans were reflecting on the effects, not the aspects of wine, when they said, "In Vino Veritas." There is however, a nobler truth to be found in great wine and cuisine. A truth both exquisite and genuine. To dine at the recently reborn Veritas, is to taste that truth.

    Joining Patti and I on this excursion is friend and blog wine advisor, Jackie. If anyone knows how to leverage the magic of Vetitas it would be Jackie. We cherish her company whenever she joins us and take unabashed advantage of her knowledge at times like these.

Aaron Zebrook watching over the front of the house.

   Aaron greeted us at the door as if we were expected guests, diplomatically arranging three seats at the bar. While Veritas has become more casual it has not lost its underlying haut service. 

First the Wine

Movia, Veliko Bianco, 2006

"we need to have enough love in our lives to transmit the passion"

Ales Kristancic

   A  fellow Bar Eater, Jackie appreciates wine excursions on roads less traveled. To start, she chose the Movia, Veliko Bianco, a blend of Ribolla, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Movia is Ales Kristancic's family's vineyard on the Italian border of Slovinia. Ales is something of a wine rock star with a dynamic personality and an adventurous approach to organic wine making. The Veliko Bianco, was an exquisitely complex, experience; we loved it.

The Space

Extending the possibilities for Bar Eating. 

    Meticulously designed yet casual, Veritas has a warm, welcoming feel. We love the extended bar and the possibilities it opens up for Bar Eating with friends. Credit for the elegantly balanced tones and textures of this room goes to Creme Design of Brooklyn. They have a lot of great work in their portfolio.    

Bartender Jon

   Confined to a more restrained roll than the average bartender, Jon was still a lot of fun. His affable nature made bar conversation a pleasure. A genuinely clever guy, Jon did his undergrad at culinary school and holds a masters in finance, though I suspect the ladies were more impressed with his other attributes. We enjoyed our time at the bar, but were so enthused with the wine that we never got around to trying any of Jon's cocktails.

On to Dinner

 First the Salmon and Tuna Crudo with Citrus, Pomegranate

   The right beginning, a refreshing palate awakener for the meal ahead. Jackie liked it so much she went with it for dinner. I didn't taste the special crab salad appetizer she and Patti shared, but there was a lot of "mmm-ing" going on next to me, while I had my crudo.

Seared Scallops Roasted Cèpes, Sunchoke Puré, Foie Gras

   That's my plate above; rich and delicious, I knew I had to have it, when I saw the guy next to us enjoying his, well before I'd glimpsed the menu. Patti had the Roasted Chicken with Potato Leek Cake, which she found hearty yet elegant.  If you'd like a better look at the food than I can provide with my little camera in dim light, there's a video with Chef Sam Hazen and Pastry Chef Emily Wallendjacks' descriptions at Vetitas Michelin Video. 

More Wine

Chateau Musar 2002

  
 Keeping with, organic wines from unexpected places theme of the evening, Jackie chose Chateau Musar 2002, a blend by Gaston Masar, of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carigan. Chateau Musar  is in the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon. It hasn't been easy making wine in Lebanon over the years. Which may explain Musar motto "Labor vincit omnia." Patriarch,  Serge Musar's philosophy, "wine must be true, it must be alive and it must linger long enough to infuse into memory." That it did beautifully. 

Orr Reches Sommelier

    We didn't get to meet Rubén Sanz Ramiro, Veritas' head sommelier, but we were ably taken care of by Orr. Being from Israel, he was eager to engage Jackie in some some banter on middle eastern wines.

The depth and breadth of Veritas' wine list is phenomenal.

  No discussion of Veritas would be complete without a little about      
Park Smith. A legend of the wine world, he is one of the greatest collectors alive today and one of the original owners of Veritas.

   Collectors, why do they do it? It must have something to do with possession of perfection. Yet, with wine the cake conundrum applies; to experience it is to consume it. And for we humans, to share that experience makes it all the more rewarding. Perhaps that's why Park opened Veritas to begin with. I've never met the man, but I suspect he would agree with Keats about truth and beauty.

Dessert

Chef Sam Hazen pours Orange-Vanilla Cream
over Cranberry Bread Pudding with Candied Pecans.

   Sam was very generous with praise of his staff. He wouldn't let us leave without trying some of Emily Wallendjacks' desserts. Bread pudding is a favorite of mine and Emily's is divine. She was preaching to the choir, Patti & Jackie, with her Chocolate Hazelnut Bar.

Bread Pudding happens to be my handle.

   

The Chef

The girls loved Sam.

   With good reason, Sam Hazen is a very charming man and a very talented one. Great chefs are artists and artisans at the same time, designing and making. Best known for his tenure at Tao New York and then the Las Vegas version, Sam's career is one of depth and breadth. It is obvious that he is at the height of his powers. It is equally obvious that he genuinely cares about what he does. We didn't interview Sam we simply enjoyed his company. (Also, a Bar Eater shout out to Chef de Cuisine, Alexander Williamson, who began his career at Nick & Toni's where Patti and I met.)

   The reviews are in, of this elegant new version of the once venerable Veritas; her three stars restored, the work of artists and artisans at the top of their games.

Veritas

You will not find what is true in life, if you have not experienced its beauty.

Motorino - The Use of Superlatives

The Use of Superlatives

Motorino

   Superlatives are more often a product of emotion than reason. A rational person does not engage in absolutes without caveats. And with them, what are we really saying? Best not to fall into the habit of using superlatives. Le raison avant la passion.

La perfezione della pizza.

   It is easy to be drawn into rating familiar things like pizzas, hamburgers, martinis... A year ago Ed Levine’s and Adam Kuban ran around the country in an effort to determine the (superlative deleted) pizza in America. Creative competitions generate interest but with so many variables, their results are meaningless.

Business was brisk.

   Bar Eater's Blog, friend and wine consultant, Jackie used (the superlative) when she told us about Motorino East Village last year. And each time we go, we say this has got to be the, (superlative deleted) pizza in New York. (Speaking as a New Yorker, that may mean the world). We are always blown away. Last year Patti took our friend Carlo, a very discriminating Milanese gentleman, to eat at Motorino. Sig. Carlo takes cucina very seriously. While he is much too refined a man to use superlatives in polite conversation, it is safe to say, he was favorably impressed. Chef/Owner Mathieu Palombino is the man behind the notorious pizza. Sam Shifton used (the superlative) in his New York Times review, but gave Motorino only one star.   I know how hard this is, for anyone, let alone an artist, but ratings aren't real. The proof is in the pudding, or in this case the pie. Last Sunday night Patti & I finally made it to the original Motorino in Brooklyn.

The Meal

Watermelon radish with sweet onion, plum tomatos and basil in vinaigrette.

   Simple and fantastic, it was a seasonal special. I confess this is the first time we have tasted a watermelon radish; it won't be the last. Matthew's brilliance in balance is very much in evidence here.

The meatballs.

   Searching for great Italian meatballs in New York has all the intrigue of a truffle hunt. With strong competitors tucked away in many less traveled parts of town. Patti is the Bar Eater's meatball aficionado. She liked Motorino's, but holds her highest praise for others. It might be a fun to do a Bar Eater - Meatball Crawl, someday. 

The subtle, perfection of this pizza stirs profound feelings.

    I do not exaggerate. While, tomato, mozzarella di bufala and basil lend their unadulterated magic, ultimately the sorcery is in the crust. Mathieu Palombino has created something of perfection. The doing, but not over doing, of every detail. Something rarely achieved in cooking, let alone life. This quality is consistent. We have never been disappointed and feel safe in saying so.

Photo by Alexandra

Patti & I after dinner, dropping the "superlative bomb."

The Room

   The Williamsburg space is way more comfortable than the East Village location. Warm and inviting, it has a neighborhood feel. It was worth the trip to Brooklyn, (which isn't really that far), to sit at a bar in such agreeable surroundings.

 The  bar, adequate but unremarkable.  

   Motorino is a Pizzeria with a bar and we are glad they have one. But, what can I say? Bar Eaters prefer a more robust bar experience. Our bartender, Alexandra was very sweet and hard working, but too young and inexperienced to master a real bar. Motorino has a reasonable selection of wines, but you don't come here for the wine. Pick something serviceable and get on with ordering your pizza.

Motorino, Brooklyn

There is a point when something moves beyond really, really good, to something that feels like... best. 

Ok, there I said it.

Back Forty - Came for Burgers - Stayed for Cocktails

Came for Burgers

Stayed for Cocktails

Back Forty

    In a wild swing from last weekend, with Patti out of town and good friend Pete flying right seat, Bar Eaters took off, in search of the best burger in town, (or at least an outstanding effort). In recent years there's been a revival of sorts for the humble hamburger. Some are nostalgic recreations, some try too hard, some are overhyped disappointments, (BLT Burger comes to mind). Word was good on Back Forty's offering and considering chef / owner, Peter Hoffman's philosophy of food, one would expect an exceptional result. An early proponent of local cuisine, he opened the Savoy about twenty years ago. There is an in depth ICE interview with him, on their site.

The burger we came for.

   We were not disappointed! A solid entry in the annals of burger history. Solid and simple, from the quality of the meat, to the preparation, (rare) they were first rate. The farmhouse cheddar takes it up a notch without going overboard. Pete went for the trifecta and added bacon. We haven't done an exhaustive study so it wouldn't be honest to use the word "best." But they sure are in the running. If you are doing your own New York burger survey a good benchmark would be Back Forty's. 

The bar.   

Relaxed and friendly, the place has a comfortable feel, like a well worn pair of jeans.

The cocktails we stayed for.

Nathaniel the right man for the job.

   Nathaniel would definitely get the Bar Eaters seal of approval, if we had one. (Maybe we should...) He's an excellent mixologist, a scholar (we assume) and a gentleman. His laid back style fits right in with the vibe of the place. We felt right at home.

Pete and I during cocktail trials. Photo by Nathaniel

   In keeping with the survey theme of the evening we sampled a variety of Back Forty's special offerings. Patti makes fun of me for trying the "froofy" signature drinks bars put out. (Believe me dear, these were not "froofy.")  All are made in an authentic way with fresh ingredients. Round one, we both had  The Back Forty, very tasty, sweet but not over the top. Round two, I tried the Loisaida Sling, (Cachaca Ginger, Beer & Chipotle) and Pete went for the Parisian Pal (Rye, Dubonnet, Compari & Bitters), both thumbs up. I wrapped it up with a couple of sidecars. I believe Pete was on to the straight George Dickel by then, (in a properly chilled glass, no ice, of course).

Ya, we'll be back.

Pure Food & Wine - The Synonymy of Fresh

The Synonymy of Fresh

crisp, raw, natural, unprocessed, new, modern, original, novel, innovative, unusual, 

unconventional, offbeat, unorthodox, radical, revolutionary...

Pure Food & Wine

Nasturtium...

   Having wrapped up our juice cleanse, Patti and I were looking to ease back in to solid food with something healthy. While there is a lot of innovation going on in vegetarian cuisine these days, it is still a relatively small field. So where can discriminating bar eaters go to find food that is fresh and exciting? At the top of the natural food pyramid here in New York is Pure Food & Wine. Originally the (2004) creation of notorious chef Matthew Kenny and then girlfriend, chef Sarma Melngailis (sordid details); it still purveys some of the most inspired food to be found on any menu, in the city. Alone, Samara seems to have accomplished what Matthew never could, to keep a good thing going. 

First Plate

   We began with spinach and nasturtiums stuffed with polenta and garnished with droplets of wasabi, (a special not on the menu). Wow, what a re-entry! Not to forget the, olives cured in fennel and orange. We followed up with the zucchini and heirloom tomato lasagna and the sweet corn and cashew tamales. The lasagna, a signature dish was delicious, but the tamales were our favorites. 

 The Bar

   So that's how the fast was broken. But what did we drink? We were sorely tempted to toast our successful cleanse with a Master Cleanse Tini, but went with the, Saint Clair sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, (organic of course), because first night back, it was all about light and crisp.  

The sangria looked great, something to remember for the summer.

Victor 

           (a bit blurry)

   A word about Victor, our bartender for the evening. A genuine guy and pleasure to meet, he knows what he is doing and he keeps it real. So often its the added dimension of a good bartender, natural, unaffected, in tune to their surroundings that ties the whole experience together. We look forward to running into Victor again.

The knock on this place is that the portions are small and the prices high. It is undeniably, on the expensive side but we never balk when quality is exceptional. In our view, it is the mediocre that's a waste of money, at any price point. As for the portions they seemed ample to us. We even had left overs.

Chef / Owner Sarma Melngailis blogs about everything at One Lucky Duck.