Itch to Stitch Plitvice Top

I have a few patterns by Itch to Stitch in my collection that I have been meaning to try for a while.  This is one of the newer releases, the Plitvice cowl knit top.

I like that the pattern is shown made up on a lot of testers and I have to say the instructions for this top at least are excellent and very detailed.

The PDF patterns are layered so you can just print off the size(s) that you want and it is available in a copy shop version if you don't want to do the whole print at home taping thing.  This particular pattern is only 14 pages though and I just read the instructions from my laptop.

https://itch-to-stitch.com/new-pattern-plitvice-top/

I'm not sure the line drawing is accurate to be honest,  in reality the front panel is wider (or the side panels are narrower).  Maybe in the smaller sizes it is more like this?

I really liked that it is a cowl t shirt, but with flat side panels to control the fullness and concentrate it in the front.  The sleeve and hip bands also finish those edges neatly especially if you have quite a thin jersey like I do here.  I made a size 8 with no adjustments although I might try shifting the gathers up a bit higher next time.  These are not great photos, but I did promise myself for 2019 I would not let that get in the way of getting posts up and it is only February so....

Since Hong Kong seems to be skipping right over winter this year I have already worn this top (under a blazer, but still - crazy!  I'm not complaining, but makes it really hard to decide what to sew next.  This little guy also makes it quite difficult to get anything done - just too cute!

BurdaStyle 9/2018 - 121 Knit Wrap Top

It's no secret that I am a big fan of Burda magazine, for me it is by far the cheapest way to get sewing patterns and I love the inspiration it gives me every month.  I don't even mind the tracing and the minimal instructions....

BUT, I have to say the instructions for this very simple top are terrible!!  There are only 3 pattern pieces and I know I have even made a similar top from Burda before.  (Fehr Trade posted the same thing on her instagram so it's not just me having a dumb moment).

BurdaStyle 09/2018 - 121

Despite the awful instructions I do actually love the finished top.

Anyway I would say ignore the nonsense about cutting into one side of the front self facing (the very first step!) as it is not needed.  I guess the idea is that the other front passes through the slit, but it's not clear later on.  Even in my bulkier fabric I don't think it makes any difference.  The instructions also have "(NAHT)" in two places and goodness only knows what that means!!  Neaten allowances together pops up at the end of a few other steps so maybe something like that?!?

Stupid instructions aside this is a really nice pattern.  I made mine in a heavier fabric than recommended - a double knit - so mine is more sweatshirt than blouse.  I like using fabrics like this for wrap tops though as the "stickiness" of the fabric makes it more secure.  I originally planned to make this in more of a t-shirt knit and I might still go back and try it.

I am way behind on blogging my finished items.  It's the taking photos on me that slows it all down, but I think it is really useful to see the clothes being worn and it also helps me to see if something needs fixing or styling differently - sometimes the camera shows you things a mirror does not so I will really try and keep going.

BurdaStyle 04/2018 - 108 Blouse

I like a lot of things in the April issue of BurdaStyle, but I always like to start things off with something easy.  This is #108, the ruffle sleeved blouse.  The magazine refers to view A and B, but the only difference is the fabric, which is kind of cheating a bit if you ask me!

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/ruffle-sleeve-top-042018

No one can ever say I am an early adopter of trends, but it seems that eventually they grow on me, or perhaps just become unavoidable and wear me down!  Now it is the turn of ruffles although I'm really only dipping my toes as I left off the ruffles at the shoulder and the sleeve ones are quite subtle.  The instructions say to leave the edges of the ruffles raw, but I'm not quite ready to go that far yet so mine are finished with a narrow hem.

As you can see from the line drawing it is very boxy - in fact it is practically a square and when I went to sew the side seams I ended up sewing the front and back hems together instead - doh!! 

I thought the neckline bias facing would be difficult at the V, but the instructions have a really good  method and you just fold the ends at that point and clip after sewing. 

I cut the neckline at the smallest size and it still has a tendency to slip off the shoulder a bit so I will probably go back and add some shoulder stays to stop that so I'm not fussing with it when I wear it.

It is pretty quick and easy to make and I used a remnant of this soft cotton print so I think it will be great for the summer.  

I didn't intend for it to be worn with the skirt I made recently from the same fabric, but it works so I might use these pieces as a jumping off point for a mini summer wardrobe.

BurdaStyle 02/2018 - 107 Offset Jersey Top

This is one of those patterns that I just simply had to try, I mean just look at this crazy line drawing!

And just the thing for a fishing trip.....!

It is a very fast sew (once you figure out how the 2 pieces go together!) and really fun to make, but does use up quite a bit of fabric - due to the odd shaped pattern pieces you do need the full 2 yards of wide fabric which is quite a lot for a t-shirt.

I had to drape the pieces on my dress form to understand how to sew the first 2 seams.  Hopefully my scribbles on the magazine showing these seams help - remember that the pieces are cut single layer of fabric and right side up, but sewn right sides together so it will make a bit more sense when you flip one piece over.  Though maybe not much more sense as I've made it twice now and I still don't really understand how or why it works!!  (Also note that the pattern piece numbers are 21 and 22, not 1 and 2).

Once those 2 seams are done it should look something like the finished line drawing and you just need to sew up the side/sleeve seams and hem the edges.  Fortunately when worn the craziness of the pattern pieces give way to some nice draping and twisting effects.

My first version is in a very soft fuchsia knit and it is a little bit big, the neckline is quite wide and has a tendency to slip a bit.  I do love the colour though so I might add some shoulder stays to deal with that.

I prefer the fit on my second version which I sewed up a bit smaller, plus I think the fabric content of this one is a bit different (though still unknown!).

BurdaStyle 01/2018 - 102 Knit Top

I've decided to hop on this years BurdaStyle challenge bandwagon.  I really want to get better use out of my Burda magazines this year instead of just talking about it.  I still have a ton of things I still want to make from 2017, but let's see if I can manage at least one thing from each issue this year.

I cannot resist twisted, drapy details so choosing this top was a no brainer!

01/2018 - 102

I also like the dress, 101 (not on the BurdaStyle website yet, the image below is from the Russian site).  Interestingly it has a separate upper bodice pattern piece because the neckline is quite a different shape.  Apart from that the pieces are identical so you can swap them around depending on your preference.  Personally I prefer the wider neckline and narrower shoulders of the top rather than the more close fitting jewel neckline of the dress so I'm glad I made the top first or I may not have realised from the line drawing.  The dress also has a centre back zip which might be needed if you make the narrower neckline, but definitely doesn't need to be long if you don't mind putting things on over your head!

Being a print fanatic, my stash of plain jerseys is very limited, I used this dark brown colour, I'm not sure yet what to wear it with other than jeans, but that is a good start I guess.  I think the pleating and twist detail shows up better in solid fabric, but I might try the dress in a print anyway.  (I also really want to use more of my stash fabric this year!).

I used my usual size 38, grading out below the waist (it's a little big on my dressform, well I should say I have grown larger than my dressform - another resolution for the list).  You do need to have the waist fitting closely to keep the twist in place.  The back is plain, but the centre back seam gives it a bit of shape.

I found the instructions pretty good, of course the only potentially tricky bit is the twist pieces so I took some photos during construction.  However I think the top (or dress) actually looks quite good even without the twist overlay if you want to keep things really simple.  I just roughly pinned the front onto my dressform so you get the idea.  

Twist construction tips 

Keep the pattern piece in front of you when you make the pleats in each draped piece, each end is different.  The notches on the top edge mark the centre and on either side of that is the slit marking.  The bottom edge self facing has been turned to the wrong side and basted in place along with the pleats.

Fold one piece in half right sides together at the centre notch and stitch from the slit marking to the pleated edge, this will leave a small hole in the middle.

 Turn right side out and open the piece flat, the seam you just stitched is across the centre, the top and bottom edges are faced and you have a small hole between the slit markings (on the left in the photo below).

 Thread the other draped piece through that hole.

Fold it so that you can stitch this draped piece in the same way as before - from the pleated edge to the slit marking, right sides together.

It should look like this from the front when finished, you may need to manipulate the twist a bit to get it sitting neatly.  The seams you sewed are across the centre now and the faced edges are top and bottom.

And from the back - kind of a mess!  For non fraying fabrics, which many knits are you don't really need to finish the facing edges, they all end up hidden on the inside.

As I mentioned it is really important that the twist is taut across the front of the top or it will droop below the waist seam.  I need to properly road test it to see if it may also need a couple of invisible stitches to hold it in place at the centre when it's being worn.

I had to edit the exposure in these photos so you can see the details.  The pants are Jalie Eleanor in stretch denim.